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Author Topic: Converting a Sig Banshee to electric  (Read 2675 times)

Offline aba183210

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Converting a Sig Banshee to electric
« on: April 17, 2016, 07:02:40 PM »
Good evening.

I purchased a Sig Banshee on Ebay and I wish to convert it to electric. For me, glow power is not possible since it provokes adverse reactions to my body.

For those who have already done this conversion, what are the best motor/prop/battery/ESC combinations? Also, where would I place the battery? I did talk to one CL flier and he told me to shorten the nose by 2 inches as well.

Any imput will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Converting a Sig Banshee to electric
« Reply #1 on: April 17, 2016, 07:20:37 PM »
Airframe weight?

Go to the "list your setup" thread in this forum and find all of the 40-50 ounce planes.  Figure that the average of those is a good starting point.

OR, go to the Brodak's site and get an electric setup for a Cardinal or an Oriental -- that should be pretty close.

Banshees need their nose shortened for IC because they were designed for a Fox 35 with a tongue muffler (or no muffler at all).  That's about the lightest combination that'll power one, so if you use anything heavier, or even if you use a Fox 35 with a muffler, the thing comes out horribly nose heavy.

An electric, on the other hand, distributes the power system weight over a longer chunk of space, so your Banshee isn't necessarily going to be nose-heavy with all the electric "junk".  Moreover, many profiles designed for electric don't have long enough noses to fit all the stuff.  Buy the parts, mock them up on the nose, check the balance, and then decide if you want to whack the nose shorter.
AMA 64232

The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Offline Motorman

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Re: Converting a Sig Banshee to electric
« Reply #2 on: April 17, 2016, 09:26:58 PM »
E Flight Power 15, 2500 Mah battery, Castle edge lite 50, Hubin FM9 timer, 11-5.5 APC. The problem with that size plane is getting the battery weight on the center line. I built a 1/8th lite ply box in the wing LE and beefed up the spar in that area. Some put the battery on an angle.

Mine was built with the kit wood and covered with monokote so not super light 45 oz. From the Leading edge to the drive washer face it's 8" but my battery is half in the wing. If you can get the battery all out front you might go with a 7". My motor is rear mount.

Mine seems to need more lift. If I had it to do over I'd sheet the leading edge and do cap strips. You don't need the 1/8th doublers for E, just use 1/32 ply instead. Also, scrap the wood for the stab/elev and get some 1/4" balsa.

MM
« Last Edit: April 19, 2016, 12:04:44 PM by Motorman »

Offline eric rule

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Re: Converting a Sig Banshee to electric
« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2016, 05:50:34 PM »
RSM 35-40 Electric System with 4 cell battery. Plenty of power and no need to go into a lot of programming on your computer (it comes ready to flip the switch and fly). Battery is heavy enough to allow you to get the proper C/G without the need to shorten the nose moment. Pop the battery into a lite ply battery box, locate it on the fuselage in the correct place and glue it in place. That way every time you change the battery for a new charged one your C/G stays constant.

Offline aba183210

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Re: Converting a Sig Banshee to electric
« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2016, 04:12:09 AM »
Thanks for your responses. I just wanted to be sure that the RSM system would be enough since I do have the motor and ESC/KR that RSM offers. I really like the way the Banshee looks and flies (I have seen several in action).


Offline Don Coe

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Re: Converting a Sig Banshee to electric
« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2016, 08:43:48 AM »
Banshee converted to electric in "list your Setup".


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