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Electric Stunt => Gettin all AMP'ed up! => Topic started by: John Rist on January 20, 2023, 06:07:39 PM
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I ordered one of the Climb and Dive Timer and it arrived last Tuesday. Paul Emmerson of CircuitFlyer is the creator. His web sight is www.circuitflyer.com. As he puts it: "Low Cost DIY Control Line Timer".
The version I am working with can be found at:
https://circuitflyer.com/Climb_and_Dive/?fbclid=IwAR0wxqiBZNI9x9bxpHJQJImJiuBe0froxsrsUwXNtd_GKrlOwiGQkaj1J7E&mibextid=Zxz2cZ
I am a big fan of the KR Timer. The Climb and Dive Timer appears to be similar to the KR in that they both have a connection to the motor leads to sense motor RPMs. This allows the use of a cheep ESC. One that does not have constant RPM control built in. However the Climb and Dive Timer has an onboard accelerometer provides a programmable active boost in power during a climb as well as a decrease in power in a dive. If this works it should give the Climb and Dive Timer an edge in performance. The KR timer uses a program stick to program and is easy to program. The Climb and Dive Timer is programed via an app on a smart phone.
Anyway as time goes on I will pass along what I learn about the Climb and Dive Timer as I build, program and fly this unit.
To start with lets look at what came in the package. See photo Dsc_7532.jpg The package contained two PCBs, 3 header pin connectors, and a JST connector with cable.
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Assembling the parts of the Climb and Dive controller.
First step was to down load and print the assembly instructions. They can be found on the left side of the screen at https://circuitflyer.com/Climb_and_Dive/?fbclid=IwAR0wxqiBZNI9x9bxpHJQJImJiuBe0froxsrsUwXNtd_GKrlOwiGQkaj1J7E&mibextid=Zxz2cZ
Under Assembly.
I have good setup for soldering PCBs. It consists of a temperature controlled soldering iron and rosin core solder. One must have a small tipped soldering iron for this job. A soldering gun is not the tool for this one. See DSC_7537.jpg for a picture of my setup.
Per the instructions the next step is to solder the 5 pin right angle header to the PCB. Observe closely the correct orientation of the connector per the instruction picture. I held the connector in place with an alligator clip and then soldered the 5 pins. See DSC_7536.jpg.
Finally you assemble the two PCBs and the two 7 pin headers. Once again the instructions pictures are very clear. Make sure you assemble everything per the pictures. My first attempt to solder this assembly was to hold it together with alligator clips. Things had slipped and I managed to plug a couple of the holes in the bottom PCB. I managed to clear the holes with a de-soldering tool. Once again this is small PCB work and some skill is required. On my next attempt I held the assembly together with a rubber band. I then soldered the 4 corner pins on both sides of the two PCBs. I removed the rubber band and soldered the rest of the pins on both top and bottom. See picture DCS_7540.jpg and DCS_7542. I cleaned the residual flux off with alcohol.
Final step is to clip off all of the remaining pins except the touch pins. Do this per the instruction picture. As I have stated over and over the instructions are clear and the pictures are easy to followed. The Climb and Dive is now ready to install in an aircraft. See DSC_7543.jpg
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Thanks John.
I got one ordered today. Looking forward to your flight report. 👍🏼
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Lets program the whole flight and leave the Gassers home
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Bob,
You are amazing! Programmers won't EVER get dizzy, unlike us.....
Lets program the whole flight and leave the Gassers home
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I decided to install my Climb and Dive timer in one of my Cavaliers. Even though the Cavalier is a profile ship all of the electronics and the battery are under a hatch cover. I have 3 Cavaliers. This is the oldest one and I had removed the KR timer for use in another ship. See DCN_7549
I was able to orient the Climb and Dive timer per the instruction sheet by adding a 1/16” plywood platform. That is pins facing forward and the unit facing the pilot. The JST connector leads were connected to two of the motor leads by inserting them into the female half of the bullet connector. The male half of the connector was then inserted into female trapping JST wire in place. I have done this in the past with the KR timer motor lead and it eliminates the need to solder this connection. The JST connector leads sense the motor RPMs and do not carry heavy current. Therefore the above way of connecting the works well. See DCN_7551.
In order to see the LED and be able to get to the touch pin I cut a hole in the hatch cover. I also extended the length of the touch pin to make it easier to access through the cover hole. See DSC_7553
I did an initial test run with the prop removed. Every thing seemed to work as it should. Next I will set up the Bluefruit Connect app on my smart phone and finish setting up my Climb and Dive timer. More to come as time goes on.
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I received the timer last night. It was really easy to assemble. I used a 25 watt iron and had it built in about 10 minutes. The instructions are very clear and comprehensive. I programmed it using the app via Bluetooth and did some bench testing. I have included a video of my testing. Next step is to get it mounted on a plane and do some actual flight testing.
https://youtu.be/R6kVJfvh2MY
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Frank this is a great video and very informative. Thanks for thanking the time.
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
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Frank, did you perform a bench check to also verify that it accounts for inverted flight and an accompanying throttle increase based on the outboard wing roll?
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Frank,
Thanks for explaining everything, interested in hearing your progress in flight testing and what your thoughts are in relation to our other timer
Tim
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Brent,
Good call! I did not test that with this timer. I did make that test some months ago on the Fiorotti timer, and it does account for being inverted. In other words when inverted, and the outboard wing rolls up, the RPMs increase. With that being said, when I get a chance I will perform that test on the Climb and Dive timer and post my findings. I would bet that it works the same way as the Fiorotti. If not then it would be a no go for flying the pattern.
Frank
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Tim, I'm looking forward to flight testing this but I can tell you right now that my favorite feature in the Fiorotti timer is the G Force setting. Getting that right, just nails the line tension in the overheads even in windy situations. I would not give that up. I'm using a KR Governor in my profile stunters. I'm looking at this Climb and Dive timer as a possible replacement for that one. I have had some issues with the KR shutting off when you least expect it. In addition The KR doesn't provide the accelerator driven RPM compensation.
Frank
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Great video, Frank! Thanks for doing that.
The active timer output is based on the rate of change so it doesn't matter if you start from upright or inverted.
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Frank, I am a little weak when it comes to Apps and computer programing. Thanks for a great video. It answered a bunch of questions I had, CLP** I live in Huntsville Alabama so I should be able to get in a flight test soon.
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Paul,
Thank you for all the work you did in developing this. Can't wait to go out a try it.
Brent,
Before I read Paul's post I ran the inverted test. Just as Paul stated it works fine.
John,
I'm glad you found it helpful. I'm looking forward to your flight testing results.
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I installed a start/stop pushbutton on my setup today. I found the following. First of all, if you do not have good soldering skills it is a little tricky to add a push button. If the two pushbutton pins were adjutant one could use a JST connector to attach it. If you planning to use a start/stop pushbutton you might want to leave these two pins long. That way you could wrap the pushbutton lead around the pin and solder. This would reduce the chance of a solder bridge between pins. Next I found that to start the timer you must hold the button until the motor burps. A short push will not start the motor. After the motor is running a quick push stops the motor instantly. And lastly the pushbutton will not put the timer in the program mod. Only the touch pin will do this. So all in all the pushbutton works. If you are going to install a Climb and Dive timer in a full body aircraft a pushbutton may be a good option. In a full body you won't be able to see the LED while flying the aircraft but I don't think this is a big deal. #^
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If you are going to install a Climb and Dive timer in a full body aircraft a pushbutton may be a good option. In a full body you won't be able to see the LED while flying the aircraft but I don't think this is a big deal. #^
It looks like the LED is positioned so that a light tube could be used to make it visible. I am using one on my Fiorotti and it makes the LED about twice as visible as it is without it. Just a thought.
Ken
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It looks like the LED is positioned so that a light tube could be used to make it visible. I am using one on my Fiorotti and it makes the LED about twice as visible as it is without it. Just a thought.
Ken
Good point. Would like to see pictures and what do you use for a light tube?
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The optional pushbutton switch is installed in parallel with the capacitive touch pin. Both inputs operate all functions.
John, the switch you are using may have a little too much 'bounce'. All mechanical switch contacts will demonstrate intermittent contact for the first few milliseconds of operation. Some of these quick high to low transitions may be getting through and causing the issue. I just ran some tests and the pushbutton I use works just fine. I will add a little more 'de-bounce' into the code for the next update. In the meantime, you could try a different switch to see if that helps.
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Good point. Would like to see pictures and what do you use for a light tube?
I will take some pix when I get to the office of both the tube I found and the assembly and add them to the post later today. Basically, I found a Lexan tube with the same ID as the LED and cut off a washer like section to put over the LED. I painted the outside rim white (I didn't have any chrome or silver) and glued that into the plane so that when I mounted the timer it covered the LED. The tube traps the side light from the LED and makes it glow and appear nearly double the diameter with the same intensity. I have very mild dyslexia (it was flying stunt as a kid that taught me how to overcome it). Searching for that tiny light at 65' was causing hunting. I had just bought one of those light tube camera's and it hit me. I am sure that if I searched enough, I could find some true light tube with mirror walls that is small enough, but the Lexan (which has the transparent properties of glass) did the trick.
Ken
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Good point. Would like to see pictures and what do you use for a light tube?
Here they are and a link to a YouTube showing it in action. Note the glow around the LED. It is very visible from 65', even when the plane is up-sun. Sorry about the shoddy finishing, it is just a fully monokoted profile. It has one of those 10' finishes! Flys great.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/M-acFXj5XIw
Apologies for the junk after the video. YouTube decided to make it a "short" and you can't edit/crop them.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9G1RBFD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
FYI: I see that I have actually used Acrylic. It is not as glass like as polycarb but it is very close. I thought I was ordering Lexan - my bad.
Ken
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I installed a start/stop pushbutton on my setup today. I found the following. First of all, if you do not have good soldering skills it is a little tricky to add a push button. If the two pushbutton pins were adjutant one could use a JST connector to attach it. If you planning to use a start/stop pushbutton you might want to leave these two pins long. That way you could wrap the pushbutton lead around the pin and solder. This would reduce the chance of a solder bridge between pins. Next I found that to start the timer you must hold the button until the motor burps. A short push will not start the motor. After the motor is running a quick push stops the motor instantly. And lastly the pushbutton will not put the timer in the program mod. Only the touch pin will do this. So all in all the pushbutton works. If you are going to install a Climb and Dive timer in a full body aircraft a pushbutton may be a good option. In a full body you won't be able to see the LED while flying the aircraft but I don't think this is a big deal. #^
Good info John
Can you post a picture of the pins you’re suggesting on keeping long to connect the push button wires to?
I got my timer and will get in together in the coming week.
Thanks
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Here is the info from the manual on how to wire up the optional remote push-button switch.
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Good info John
Can you post a picture of the pins you’re suggesting on keeping long to connect the push button wires to?
I got my timer and will get in together in the coming week.
Thanks
Brent nailed it. (PE**)
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Thanks guys. 😉
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Great info guys! I bought one and think it will be my next electric PA ship.
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I have assembled mine, and when the motor starts up it spools up and then shuts down, I have tried three different esc's and they all do the same thingk
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I have assembled mine, and when the motor starts up it , I have tried three different esc's and they all do the same thingk
When you start the Climb and Dive timer by touching the touch pin the motor does spools up and then shuts down. Then when the set start delay runs out the motor starts and runs normally. The initial motor burp is just to let you know the timer has been started. If this is not you problem the other possibility is that the two wire Jst connector is not hooked up properly. This two lead connector has to be connected to two of the three motor wires. The Climb and Dive timer uses this connection to measure motor RPMs. If RPMs are not correct it turns itself off. IE it can detect a prop strike and turn things off before you fry a motor or ESC. If these two wires are not connected the Climb and Dive timer thinks the motor has a fault and shouts down. D>K Also you may want to check to make sure you don't have a solder bridge shorting out the two JST connector pins.
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The short run at low RPM to indicate the start of the delay countdown lasts for 1.5 seconds. If you don't see this blip of the throttle try calibrating the throttle range on the ESC. That usually helps.
One other thing to remember - If after the delay countdown is complete and the motor starts for takeoff but only runs for 6 to 8 seconds it is also possible you have set the governed RPM too high. If you use an RC transmitter/receiver (or a servo tester) and ran your system absolutely flat out at max throttle then measured the RPM at, say, 9,900 for example. Then you install the timer and set the RPM to 10,000, guess what, it ain't gonna happen no matter how hard you try. Your governor set-point must be below the maximum possible RPM of the system. Also, be sure to leave a couple of hundred RPM of headroom for the active output to function properly.
The timer will initiate an auto-shutdown if it cannot reach the governed RPM setting. After the auto-shutdown the LED will flash red 2 times every 3 seconds to indicate why it shutdown. There is no sense in attempting a flight if the timer can't govern the RPM, the prop strike protection may not work nor will the active output work properly.
Hope that helps.
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I am starting to get this figured out. I am trying to use this on a model that is intended to be quite a bit faster than most stunt fliers would want to run it. Just doing bench testing now.
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I have flown my Climb and Dive on an electric Flight Streak and it works as described. I had a few issues getting the C&D to work correctly caused by my own ineptitude. Paul Emmerson is very patient and talked me through every one of my issues. I am a new (old) C/L flyer trying to learn acrobatics again at the age of 77. Learning a lot and having FUN!
Randy
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It's been a while since I shipped the first units. Anyone else have some feedback from the flying circle? I haven't received many questions or issues so I'll assume thats a good thing. Please let me know how the timer is working for you. If you think the program needs some tweeks I can work on a software update.
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Paul,
I have been working on other projects. I'll get to using your timer in a couple of months.
Thanks again for developing this.
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As soon as I get a break in the weather on a day I don't have a doctor's appointment I will put mine in the air.
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It's very much winter still here in northern Utah. Perhaps some testing can happen later in March.
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It's been a while since I shipped the first units. Anyone else have some feedback from the flying circle? I haven't received many questions or issues so I'll assume thats a good thing. Please let me know how the timer is working for you. If you think the program needs some tweeks I can work on a software update.
I’ve been using your timers on two of my planes and on a thrust/wattage test stand that I built. The timer works great on both planes. One of the planes is a Legacy with an E flight motor and the other is a 50” wingspan T38 I scratch built. It has a 28-26 Badass motor. Both use ESC from hobby king. Your timers work as advertised. The reason I felt compelled to respond was to say I also use one on a test stand I built. The strike protection saved my fingertip from being cut off! I was testing different prop sizes for the aforementioned Legacy. After testing three different props I switched to a fourth but didn’t realize or even check but it was a pusher, so the thrust was pushing the motor backwards away from the scale. To make matters worse, instead of pulling away from the stand, I tried to brace the stand from tipping backwards. (VERY STUPID). The prop struck the tip of mt finger, cutting a small bit off the tip. The second strike was about 3/4 inch down my finger. It the timer hadn’t cut the power it would have cut off the whole end of it. Instead, it just broke the skin and stopped. I usually use a servo tester to control the motor. I am very glad I put it on there. I will be using more of the Climb and Dives in the future.
As a side note I plan on doing my next big design with servoless retracts. I’ve been researching using another board with this type of accelerometer that can be set to retract the gear at a set time after the motor starts and extend the gear prior to the motor cut off time.
A big thank you for your timer.
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Ouch! I had intended for that feature to protect the electrical equipment but if it also protects the human equipment all the better. I hope you have now added a stop to prevent the stand from pivoting backwards. I setup my test stand for the prop to push onto the motor. Less chance for a loose prop to fly across the workshop. Yep, learned that one the hard way too. Reverse pitch props and RH threads don't always work well together.
Glad you like the timer.
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D Olson, I am a BIG fan of the T-38. Could you post a Picture and some specs of the model?
TNX Randy
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D Olson, I am a BIG fan of the T-38. Could you post a Picture and some specs of the model?
TNX Randy
I can post some pictures for sure. I just have to take some. It's a profile version of this plane I found on outer zone. T-38 Talon Stunt (oz4828). I really like the looks of the T 38. I am currently working on a full fuselage plane right now. I will post some stuff on both planes once I can get some pictures taken.
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Don't understand how this works by sensing the roll axis. CL planes don't roll do they?
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Don't think of it as directly sensing the roll axis. Think more along the lines of using a sensor to determine if the wings are level/horizontal (flying down low) or if the wings are tilted straight-up/vertical (flying overhead). With a bit of math the sensor can guesstimate the altitude of our airplane within the hemisphere. How about that, we now have an altimeter! How do we know if we are in a climb or dive? For that we need a vertical speed indicator. With a bit more math we can calculate the rate of change in altitude, a positive rate of change = climb, a negative rate of change = dive. All that is left is to tie the rate of change to the throttle output and, voila, you have an active timer.
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Don't think of it as directly sensing the roll axis. Think more along the lines of using a sensor to determine if the wings are level/horizontal (flying down low) or if the wings are tilted straight-up/vertical (flying overhead). With a bit of math the sensor can guesstimate the altitude of our airplane within the hemisphere. How about that, we now have an altimeter! How do we know if we are in a climb or dive? For that we need a vertical speed indicator. With a bit more math we can calculate the rate of change in altitude, a positive rate of change = climb, a negative rate of change = dive. All that is left is to tie the rate of change to the throttle output and, voila, you have an active timer.
Not only that, you now have the capability of adding a training mode by sending a signal (bright LED) as the plane passes through or settles in at 45 degrees and maybe with some creative thinking another when it reaches vertical. :! Just don't tell the judges what the lights mean. :o
Ken
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Is there a unicorn involved in any of this? Does it work or just give you power in weird places 1.5 sec after you need it.
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No unicorns, fairies or griffins involved. (Although gremlins occasionally sneak into our electrical systems) Boost and brake only where needed. Is there a delay? Yes, a tiny amount due to the required filtering of the accelerometer input. After watching (and listening) at the World Championships, I'd say it's comparable to the other active systems out there.
I have sold 270 timers to 130 different customers with no complaints about performance. Buy one and give it a try.
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No unicorns, fairies or griffins involved. (Although gremlins occasionally sneak into our electrical systems) Boost and brake only where needed. Is there a delay? Yes, a tiny amount due to the required filtering of the accelerometer input. After watching (and listening) at the World Championships, I'd say it's comparable to the other active systems out there.
I have sold 270 timers to 130 different customers with no complaints about performance. Buy one and give it a try.
Question, at what point in a normal 90 degree corner does the boost come and do you need a unique ESC to get there.
Ken
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Based on my datalogging results, I would say that the boost starts at the exit of the corner. Although it won't increase enough for you to actually hear the RPM change until you climb higher.
The Climb_and_Dive timer does the governing of the motor so it works with lower cost non-governing ESC's. No, you don't need special expensive ESC's or programming boxes.
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D Olson, I am a BIG fan of the T-38. Could you post a Picture and some specs of the model?
TNX Randy
OK. No problem. 25-foot wingspan.
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OK, I just mounted my C&D timer on my Pathfinder. I'm using a 6S Li-On battery, BA 3515-710 motor, and a Jeti Spin 44 Pro ESC. Has anybody else used the Spin 44 Pro ESC with the C&D timer? If so what settings did you use on the ESC.
Thanks in advance.
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I've never used a Jeti Spin ESC but from the timers perspective here is my best guess:
KISS settings:
Follow the manual (timer and ESC) for auto-throttle range calibration. Set the ESC for Mode 4 Glider Outrunner.
Detailed settings:
Brake - Hard Brake, unless you want to set some individual parameters then set as appropriate in Manual Brake Settings.
Controller Operating Mode - Normal. The timer regulates the RPM not the ESC.
Acceleration - As fast as possible, you adjust the ramp up speed of the motor in the timer.
Cut Off Type - I always suggest Hard cut off.
Initial Deflection & Full Throttle - As above, I would let the auto-throttle range calibration do it's thing. For reference, the timer minimum throttle signal is 950 microseconds pulsewidth and full throttle is 2000 microseconds. Do not use Full Throttle Auto-Shift.
Throttle Curve: Linear
Start-up Power: your choice.
Jeti doesn't seem to go into great detail about all of the default settings and how they function.
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Nice clean install, Crist.
Paul, is there any problems mounting the timer vertically as Crist has done? Do you have to change the programming at all for that?
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No problem at all, just be sure to follow the instructions to set the orientation correctly so that the timer knows which accelerometer axis to use.
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Went out and flew the C&D timer today. Sometimes it went well and other times it was frustrating. I believe the frustration was caused by the Jeti Spin Pro 44 ESC that I'm using. The first flight the system armed and gave me a beep. Then I got the momentary spin after 3 seconds. After the delay time was up the motor started to spool up then shut off! This happened several times. Back to the pits. After fiddling with the ESC settings ( I don't remember what I changed) the motor would stay running. I flew a couple of 2 minute flights to set the lap speed. Then programmed the timer for a full flight. The next flight went well. I then adjusted the Climb and Dive settings to see how I liked it. The next flight the motor started and then shut down again. I disconnected the battery and connected it and then the motor stayed running. All is well for the next several flights. Then on full flight 4 I stated to run out of battery in the OH8. After I landed, I checked each cell and they were all about 3.5V each. This is what they normally show after a good flight. Back into the ESC program and I noticed that it was set for the Glider Outrunner setting and when I checked the manual settings the minimum cell voltage was set to 3.2V. I'm running a Li-ion pack and this setting needs to be 2.7V. I changed it along with the cell count from Auto to 6 cells. The next flight went well. However I was not getting the momentary spin up of the prop when activated. Time to go home.
On the bench tonight I tried many combinations of ESC settings and I still cannot get the momentary spin up when activated. The LED goes from GREEN to a momentary RED, then to BLUE, and then the flashing LED till start up. Why don't I get the momentary spin up?
My settings are:
SPIN 44 PRO
Manual Setting
Temp - 100
Brake - Medium 50/100/1s
Operation Mode - Normal
Timing - 23
Freq. - 8KHz
Acceleration - .2s
Accumulator Type - Li-ion/Pol/Fe
Number of Cells - 6
Li-xx Cut Off - 2.7v
Off Voltage Set - 16.18v
Cut Off - Slow Down
Initial Point - Fix
Fix Initial Point - 1.00ms
End Point - 2.00ms
Auto Inc. End Point - Off(Fix)2.00ms
Throttle Curve - Linear
Rotation - Left
Start Up Power - Auto
Setting Throttle R/C - off
The C&D Timer Settings
1) Start Delay Time - 35s
2) Flight Time - 325s
3) Rpm Setting - 9800
4) Climb Gain - 5
5) Dive Gain - 6
6) Motor Poles - 14
7) Motor Accel. - 8
8) Last Lap Time - 0
9) Mounting Position - -Z, -Y
10) Overhead Boost - 6
Again I'm running a BA 3515-710, Spin 44 Pro, 6S Li-ion 2600ma battery, Igor 12 x 5N 3 blade prop. I like to fly about 5.3-4 sec laps on 63 foot eye to eye Spectra lines.
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The timer momentary spin up is a 1.15ms throttle signal for .5 seconds (this is easily adjustable inside the program code if needed). It sounds like the short duration throttle signal is finished by the time the ESC can react to it. The culprit could be the ESC Acceleration setting. Can it be set lower or to 0 seconds? A less likely culprit could be the Start Up Power. I've not used a Jeti ESC so I'm not familiar with how that feature behaves.
In a normal start up, as the motor accelerates up to flight RPM it must react to the throttle signal as fast as possible. If the ESC causes the RPM to lag behind the throttle signal the timer may mistakenly think the power system cannot reach the required RPM and trigger a shutdown.
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Paul,
I got it working this morning. I'm pressed for time. I'll elaborate later today.
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Here are my settings to get it to work with the Jeti Spin 44 Pro ESC. I did select the Mode 4 Glider Outrunner but changed the Li-XX Cut Off to 2.7 because I'm using Li-ion batteries.
My settings today were:
SPIN 44 PRO
Manual Setting
Temp - 100
Brake - Medium 50/100/1s
Operation Mode - Normal
Timing - 23
Freq. - 8KHz
Acceleration - 1.0s
Accumulator Type - Li-ion/Pol/Fe
Number of Cells - Auto
Li-xx Cut Off - 2.7v
Off Voltage Set - 16.18v
Cut Off - Slow Down
Initial Point - Auto
Fix Initial Point - 1.00ms
End Point - 1.80ms
Auto Inc. End Point - On from 1.80ms
Throttle Curve - Linear
Rotation - Left
Start Up Power - Auto
Setting Throttle R/C - on
I think I can go in and change the Acceleration from 1.0s to .2s and the End Point from 1.80ms to 2.0ms and not change anything else. I'll do that next time out.
EDIT:
I just made the changes to:
Acceleration from 1.0s to .2s
Number of Cells from Auto to 6
End Point from 1.80ms to 2.00ms
Auto Inc. End Point on from 1.80ms to 2.00ms
And it worked well on the bench. We'll see next time out if these changes work.
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You can position it normal/parallel to any axis on the plane you want, just have to go into your bluetooth settings and "teach it" which axis is which and which way is up/forward. Explained clearly in the directions, no worries!
Cheers,
Steve Manganelli
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Never mind above, was responding to an obsolete post ???
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Went flying today. The Jeti Spin 44 Pro and the Climb and Dive timer worked very well for 2 flights. I then reduced the RPM by 200 for the 3rd flight. On the 3rd flight after the arming beep and the 3 second on "button" push, it started then stopped!. I disconnected the battery and tried again. Same thing. I tried 1 more time and the same thing. I wound up my lines and went home.
As of right now I cannot recommend using this combo. An exercise in frustration for sure.
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Did you note any flashing fault codes on the timer?
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Did you note any flashing fault codes on the timer?
Sorry I didn't look. I should have.
A member here suggested that I change the contacts in the ESC plug because they can get loose. So I did and will try again tomorrow. If it does it again, I'll check the codes.
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Crist - I think I found the problem. You were one of my first customers. My records show I shipped timer S/N 3 to you. The first batch of timers I made I selected resistor values for the RPM conditioning circuit that I thought should work up to 8S batteries. Turns out those resistors only worked up to 6S. The voltage point where it refuses to work correctly is right around the full voltage of a 6S lipo pack. Slightly less voltage and it works fine. That is likely why it works for a couple of flights and not the next. Sorry, that was my mistake. I revised the circuitboard and fixed the issue on all subsequent batches.
I'll get you a new timer. PM sent.
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That's great. PM replied to.
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And who said electric was easier than fuel. However once the bugs are gone electric becomes very reputable and no slime! LL~
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OK gang....
Here's MY setup and working well.
PointsFinder Profile original design 620 sq in at 54oz ready to launch 5.25 sec laps on 61' eye to eye .018 stranded lines
Cobra 3515/18 KV740
APC 13x5.5P cut down to 11.5 diameter
6S Li-Ion "P28A" cells. 2800mah 35A max draw
Talon 35 ESC
Data file:
Auto Rotate Enabled: False
Auto-Lipo Volts/Cell: 3.0 Volts/Cell
Brake Delay: .6 sec (Delayed) (*)
Brake Ramp: Slow
Brake Strength: 100% (Hard)
Current Cutoff Type: Hard Cutoff
Current Limiting: Insensitive
Cutoff Voltage: 162 (2.7v/cell)
Desired Head Speed 1: Optional
Desired Head Speed 2: Optional
Desired Head Speed 3: Optional
Direction: Forward (*)
Governor Gain: 50
Governor Mode Type: Simple
Head Speed Change Rate: 20
Hex55: 85
Initial Spool-Up Rate: 15
Link Live Enable: Disabled (*)
Motor Start Power: Medium (59) (*)
Motor Timing: Normal (5) (*)
Power-On Beep: Enabled (*)
PWM Rate: 8 Khz
Throttle Response: Medium (5) (*)
Throttle Type: Fixed-Endpoints
Vehicle Setup - Battery Type: LiPo
Vehicle Setup - Battery Voltage: 22.2000
Vehicle Setup - Gear Ratio: 1.000
Vehicle Setup - Motor Kv: 740
Vehicle Setup - Motor Number of Poles: 14
Vehicle Setup - Number of Cells: 6
Vehicle Type: Multi-Rotor
Voltage Cutoff Type: Soft Cutoff (*)
Climb and Dive Unit settings:
Ver 1.4
Mounted with double sticky foam pad @ 1/16" thick
1- delay 30
2- duration 310
3- rpm 9550
4- climb boost 3 (was 5)
5- dive boost 3 (was 6)
6- poles 14
7- accel 5
8- sec after boost 3
9- orientation -Z, -Y
10- Overhead boost 4
I added wing seating tape to fuse behind the connectors to assure a good connection.
Above may not be optimum. More test flights this evening. Although feeling pretty good.
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And who said electric was easier than fuel. However once the bugs are gone electric becomes very reputable and no slime! LL~
If you swap your battery after you land so it is ready to go again you can put in an extra flight in the time it tales the IC guys to fuel up and start their engine, screw with the needle and read the Tac. But you don't because it is not polite. H^^ Neither is arming and walking to your handle while the IC guy is still carrying his plane off just to make a point! VD~
Ken
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OK back on topic...
I flew some additional flights last evening and adjusted the climb and dive boost values. See post #63 in BOLD.
Plane is VERY consistent speed wise throughout each maneuver now. The overhead boost is a welcomed feature. Wind was 9MPH and it made the OH8 comfortable. I did notice IF the boosts were to high the maneuvers were "jerky". Maybe just enough is better than a bit too much?
Anyway...Good job Paul!
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Paul, I just updated both my Climb and Dive Timers with version 4 and it is so easy even I was successful. Thanks for a great timer. #^
R
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I received the new timer and installed it and took out the Pathfinder. It flew without a hitch. My settings below for both the Jeti Spin 44 Pro and the C&D timer. Thank you Paul!
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Anyone have any experience using C. C. Phoenix 45 ESC with the Climb and Dive Timer ?