stunthanger.com
Electric Stunt => Gettin all AMP'ed up! => Topic started by: Dennis Adamisin on November 11, 2009, 10:13:33 AM
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This was Brodak's (and the industry's?) first complete turn-key electric model, and introduced many of us, including me, to ECL. While successful the advancing state-of-the-art showed many areas that it could be improved too. This past summer John Brodak asked me to help develop several power system packages that would cover all of his product line, from Baby Clown to Strega. Included in that was an upgrade and complete do-over of the electric Super Clown power system:
* Motor: Arrowind 2815. The motor is about 1.5mm larger in dia and about the same length. Arrowind is producing a special version of this motor designed for front mounting and fits the same mounting pattern as the "red motor" used in the current Super Clown. The new motor also has the kv reduced from 1500 to 1300 which lets it work more efficiently with larger props. Great match with the 9x4.5 or 10x5 APC prop.
* Battery: the old red 3Sx4000 15C pack is replaced by a new Arrowind 3Sx3300 20C pack. The new pack is just s smidgen smaller, and about 2 oz lighter than the old pack with higher quality construction. It is also equipped with a Dean's Ultra connector.
* ESC: Arrowind 35A. This is a simple non-governing ESC, however it has a soft start mode, and a prop brake. This is a major upgrade over the old single speed ESC.
* Timer: Will Hubin FM-0c with power-up function to balance speed over duration of flight. Powers on the motor for a short blip, then has a built-in start-up delay for 15 seconds. Flight time adjustable from 1:45 to 6 min. Throttle adjustment from 4.8 Sec/lap to 6.5 sec/lap when using a 9x4 prop. Also gives a 5 sec end of flight time alert.
* The new Charger/Ba lancer will charge at up to a 2A rate versus the old charger's 0.6A rate - meaning recharge time has been cut by some 70%! BTW, Brodak will also be selling new deluxe charger that will recharge up to 6S packs at up to a 5A rate.
* Price - LESS! More performance at less cost is a good deal when you can swing it. Watch for announcements.
I have been flying the complete new system in a Super Clown and it works great. Recently, I substituted one of the old red motors, and affirmed it is completely compatible - and very happy - flying with the new battery, ESC & Timer. The Super Clown likes the 2 oz lighter battery too!
> If you are curious about electrics, but have been watching from the sidelines, I would recommend the Super Clown as a very good complete package set-up to get you introduced to ECL.
> The Power System will also be available separate from the airplane so you can e-power any other similar design - basically anything that flies with a 25-35 IC system will be well suited for the new power system. For example I am currently finishing up a Brodak Shark 402 that I have no doubt will perform well with the new system.
> If you have one of the early electric Super Clowns, I recommend you upgrade the ESC, Timer, Battery and Charger to the new components and discover how good the Super Clown with the electric power system can be.
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Hi Dennis,
The new clown should be awesome. Any chance you can change the nose to a rear mount? It might not look as nice, but China never built the nose the way I intended it (to weak and cheap looking). It will also allow for better cooling if it becomes an issue.
Mike
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Hi Dennis,
The new clown should be awesome. Any chance you can change the nose to a rear mount? It might not look as nice, but China never built the nose the way I intended it (to weak and cheap looking). It will also allow for better cooling if it becomes an issue.
Mike
Thanks Mike, I know you know what was required to make the Clown power system perform to its full potential!
Apparently there are still quite a few SC's in stock with front mounts and wing-pocket batteries - too many to scrap out. Thus the modified motor to fit the front mount and the "wafer" style battery. However no doubt rear mounts are MUCH easier to do on profiles!
I glued the fiberglass nose cowling on with gorilla glue, plus a couple SM screws. The glue foams up to fill any gaps and it is really tough now. I also opened up the nose ring for cooling, and plan to show that in an addendum to the instructions..
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I think it would be neat to come up with a metal bracket mount similar (or identical!) to the one Crist developed for his profile.
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Dennis
I liked Big Art's opinion on seeing your power system fly the Super Clown: "A Super Clown never had it so good!"
That was pretty much the way it looked from where I was standing. I was amazed at the difference between the new power system and the original and how well it flies. I also liked the way you flew it... laying on your back. It was more interesting watching you try to get up though. Got to admit that.
LL~ LL~ LL~
bob branch
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Dennis,
Have you developed the motor list that fits the various size ships in John's inventory? If so could you share the size/brand for each category.
Best, DennisT
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Bob:
I have not tried flying laying on my back in at least 40 years! Yes I'm sure it was funny watching me get back up. Musta looked like a beached whale growing feet and crawling up on land..! n~ :o LL~
stuntguy-Dennis: Yes, but I will show those in a new thread - stay tuned... 8)
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Dennis
Just goes to show, that's how we got on land!
But seriously, I can't be critical. That is a pretty impressive show you put on. It certainly may be the answer for those of us who take medications that tend to make us dizzy! n~
bob branch
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Dusting off this thread for an update:
The new Super Clown is power system is available in a package deal with the SC-ARF. Complete power system with the charger AND an airplane is now available (Brodak Item #BH-1831) for $259.99. That's something like $100 under the original package. NOT BAD, especially considering that motor, battery, ESC, timer, and charger are all better than what they replace.
http://www.brodak.com/shop_productdetail.php?ProductID=8862
Brodak is also selling a combo built around the Baby Clown ARF.
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I have placed an order for one of these... ie the Super Clown kit. Looking forward to trying out electric flight.
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I have placed an order for one of these... ie the Super Clown kit. Looking forward to trying out electric flight.
Hi Warren, For what it's worth.... As you can tell the "do-ers" in my family are very activly pursueing ECL. They can be pretty animated in family discussions. Brother Alan being a little more skeptical than most called me on the QT to do a T.O.R. (test of reasonableness). I told him the following: "remember the best run you ever had? Imagine that ALL of the ECL runs are better than that".
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I was just reading the December issue of Flying Models, and noticed the Brodak ad on page 11.
I was particularly impressed with the Super Clown sale ($259.99). If the new electric SC really looks like that--and for that price, I am sure you will have a winner.
Note: you really need to take a look at the ad! LL~
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I was just reading the December issue of Flying Models, and noticed the Brodak ad on page 11.
I was particularly impressed with the Super Clown sale ($259.99). If the new electric SC really looks like that--and for that price, I am sure you will have a winner.
Note: you really need to take a look at the ad! LL~
RATZ I do not have that issue anymore and do not recall the ad - can you scan & post???
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Here it is. I guess that John is clearing out his original stock of motor, special ESC, and timer.
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Here's a second try in case someone prefers to read rightside up...
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Third try -- it's late.
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Do you like the profile of that SuperClown?
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Wow, Brad has them all covered. LL~
I got the chance to fly the new super clown package and it performs great!! The additional timer options make it user friendly and the balance charger is as easy as it gets. The lower Kv motor also aides in reducing the battery required and lightening up the package.
Archie Adamisin
Muncie, Indiana
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I got to fly the new electric super clown in the picture and it really flies great!!!!
LL~ LL~ LL~bob branch
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Actually on a more serious note, is this the old Super Clown system or the new one. It sounds like the price is the same (if I understood the cost of the new system correctly).
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That I don't know by looking at that ad.
Archie Adamisin
Muncie, Indiana
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I think that the same way they used the wrong pix, someone used (or did not update) the old description. At least they got the price right! ;D
The OLD timer/ESC, battery & charger are all discontinued. The $260 price you see is for the NEW system which now also INCLUDES the Super Clown. You can also confirm this by checking out the lising (item BH-1831) on their website:
http://www.brodak.com/shop_productdetail.php?ProductID=8862
Brodak will also be selling the Super Clown power system separate from the airplane.
Brodak still has some of the old "red" motors as well as the new Arrowind motors - both work great with the new Arrowind ESC & Wil Hubin FM-0c timer that are at the heart of the new system. Frankly if you have one of the old Super Clowns I think it is worth a look at to upgrading it to the new ESC, timer, battery, & charger.
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Hey guys, sorry I forgot to subscribe to the topic, I have ordered the BH-1831 and am awaiting it's arrival.
Cant wait to have some perfect flights with it. I already have a Super Clown with a OS25LA onboard and it flies great! Looking forward to trying the electric version to get me started in electric.
We have our first F2B electric comp scheduled for August 2010 and will be run by Ian Smith. I think some of you know him. This gives us all plenty of time go get something sorted. I'm thinking of converting my Pathfinder to electric for the event, but the Super Clown may be good enough???
Cheers
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Warren:
With the two Super Clowns you are going to be in a great position to compare IC versus electric. I have an IC version with an Enya 30 that flies well, the electric is very good too - just quieter and less greasy!
The Super Clown is OTS legal. It will do a complete pattern - but it will never be mistaken for a full stunt model. Still it will do the deed admirably until you get a "real" electric stunter in your fleet. By all means get some experience with the SC and seriously consider re-powering the Pathfinder. It is a very good flying bird and with electric - well it does JUST fine. Because of lack of vibration, electric profiles do not beat-up the wing-fuselage joint like IC profiles do.
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Just got the Feb issue of FM. They got the pix right this time and th e description is updated.
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Got my Super Clown Electric kit in the mail today. Very nice! Should have it all put together by tomorrow and ready to fly on Saturday. I have added a little bit trim using Monocote trim sheet. Will post a pic when done.
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Got my Super Clown Electric kit in the mail today. Very nice! Should have it all put together by tomorrow and ready to fly on Saturday. I have added a little bit trim using Monocote trim sheet. Will post a pic when done.
T'rrrific news. Give a shout if it gives you any grief.
On the front end: its a good idea to peel back the 'cote, and put some glas cloth over the nose ring to fuselage joint. The also get a good secure bonding of the front cowl to the fuselage.
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On the front end: its a good idea to peel back the 'cote, and put some glas cloth over the nose ring to fuselage joint. The also get a good secure bonding of the front cowl to the fuselage.
Hi Dennis,
I had to re-glue the nose ring in place as it wasn't secured properly. I have already securely bonded the cowl to the fuselage using a high strength epoxy.
One thing I did have a problem with was, the motor comes with really short mounting screws. (like 1/4" long) I had to try to find some 3/8' x 4-40 socket head screws to mount the motor. Couldn't find any in my stuff so I had to cut down some 1" ones. Not sure if these were supposed to be in the kit?
Cheers
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Careful I'm pretty sure the motor is tapped for M3 (3mm) machine screws. The scres that come with the motor - aren't they flatheads also? If you countersink the mounting holes it will add some effective length.
Be careful that the longer screws do not reach too deep into the motor - they CANNOT be allowed to touch any of the windings & such.
The motor plate could stand a little cooling air openings too - see pix. I flew mine without the cooling openings then added them later, it lowered the motor temperature as measured with the "thumb" cannot tell you how much except it was noticable...
BTW I flew mine with the new silver Arrowind motor and the old Brodak red motor - either work fine with the new controller & timer.
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I did write a review on the Electric Super Clown---back in the old days! It is in the review forum. I had some fun with the original motor mount. Things are better now I think. I also think I showed how I solved my issue with the motor mount.
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The screws that came with the motor are too short. Less than a 1/4". Flat head, with phillips head. I tried a 4-40 bolt and it screwed in with no resistance. I have done it all carefully and believe 3/8" is fine. ie not too long. I will also do as you have suggested and make some air holes as well.
The decals I received also aren't the "electric" decals. Not a biggy, perhaps I got an older ARF or something.
Thanks.
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Gotta love this online help! Just added some cooling holes and checked my screws again. The ones I made are actually 5/16 long not including the head. The screws that came with the motor are 1/4" including the head. See pics.
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Sheesz, looks like you are about 20 mintes from being RTF. Keep it up my friend!
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Looking pretty good I reckon.
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G'day Warren,so you have gone electric,good to see,I have been
flying my Cardinal with electric since the November comp in Newcastle.
Whole new ball game,but its been interesting,you are in the right place
the guy's here will steer you in the right direction.
Paul Allen
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Gday paul
Taking it on it's maiden flight tomorrow morning. Cant wait. I've revved the motor up a few times though.
Next step later in the year will be to electify my Pathfinder. Taking the ST46 out for a rest. Hopefully will put it in a Thunderbird MkII. At the moment I'm back on my new Cardinal profile which will have a OS FS52 four banger.
See you at the HVC!
Cheers
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Looks My-T-Fine Warren. CLP** Looking forward to your flight reports. AP^
Not to spoil any surprises but, I am flying mine on 60' eye to eye, at minimum throttle setting it goes about 6.5 sec per lap, thats a little too slow. At max throttle it goes about 4.5 sec per lap - fun at that speed, but Isettled on somewhere around 3/4 -7/8 throttle- your speeds may be a little different...
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I have been flying my Cardinal with electric since the November comp in Newcastle.
What setup are you using on the Cardinal Paul, ie brand and size motor, esc, battery and timer.
Cheers
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Not to spoil any surprises but, I am flying mine on 60' eye to eye, at minimum throttle setting it goes about 6.5 sec per lap, thats a little too slow. At max throttle it goes about 4.5 sec per lap - fun at that speed, but Isettled on somewhere around 3/4 -7/8 throttle- your speeds may be a little different...
I was going to use 60 ft lines, and half throttle to begin with. Hopefully will fly it in the morning. (in about 8 hours time)
Will let you know how it goes.
Cheers
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Blown out and windy here, so no fly yet. But in the meantime heres some comparison with the original Super Clown model.
Original Super Clown Kit Built Jan '07
Engine: Std OS 25 LA with muffler.
Tank: 3 oz medium wedge tank
Weight: 780 g / 27.5 Oz (dry) + 90g / 3 Oz fuel
Fuel: 10% nitro, 10% Castor, 10% Synth, 70% Methanol
Prop: 10 X 5
Lines: 60'
Covering: Coverlite Litespan and enamel paint.
Electric Super Clown 2010 model ARF
Motor: Arrowind 2815-09 kV-900
ESC: Arrowind 35A
Battery: Arrowind 3300mA 3S1C 20C Lipo
Timer: Hubin FM 0c
Weight: 880g / 31 Oz
Prop: 9 x 4.5
Lines: 60'
Covering: Iron on film + Trim sheets
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RATZ!
I was hoping you would have a flight test. Interesting comparison you have made on your two SC's. I have an IC version with an Enya 30 and a 9x5 prop that really flies nice too.
One small correction to your chart: The Arrowind 2815 for the Super Clown is a special wind that results in KV=1300.
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Warren
Not wanting to steel this thread but here is the info, I listened to
all the guy's on this forum and managed to get some excellent advice from
Alan Hahn,Will Hubin and Will Moore.Than I copied Alan's setup from his Vector
as I decided the way he ran it was what I was looking to do also.
Scorpion 3020-780 KV motor, Castle 45 ESC,APC 12x6 tractor prop, 2,200 mah battery
started with the JMP 2 timer but have switched to the FM2 Hubin timer as you can
select anyone of three programed speeds at the field,very handy
Still learning, have about 20 flights on it so far.
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Warren
One more photo. I forgot to mention its a 4S 1P battery pack.
Just gets the job done, uses about 80% of battery,looking to go higher
on mah capacity.
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Ok had a fly! Two flys actually. Got some nice HD camcorder footage as well. It flies very nicely, very similar to the IC version in fact, but a lot easier to get started. I love the way the timer works.
I went for a walk down the local park, about 10 houses away with plane, lines and handle and away I went. Then a couple of neighbors came out with their Eskys so we had some beers. lol
Very impressed with the package. Well done guys. I will try to upload some of the footage later. It looks great in HD.
Cheers
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Congrats Warren! Let's see, you went flying in the neighborhood without raising the ire of your neighbors, while sharing a brew or three... sounds like a great flying session to me! Did you get a launch or fly "stooge-less"?
Now get to work on that Pathfinder...
Paul: good post on your stuff too - did you put it in the "List your set-ups" thread? I also like that you are getting away with the LIGHT 2200 pack (albeit a bit more mah would be comfy)
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lol first flight was launched by my daughter, 2nd flight was stooge-less. Love it.
Here's a little bit of video...
[youtube=480,300]<object width="853" height="505"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Vd7rwURL2x8&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0&hd=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Vd7rwURL2x8&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0&hd=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="853" height="505"></embed></object>[/youtube]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vd7rwURL2x8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vd7rwURL2x8)
Will setup for full pattern tomorrow.
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Warren
Not wanting to steel this thread but here is the info, I listened to
all the guy's on this forum and managed to get some excellent advice from
Alan Hahn,Will Hubin and Will Moore.Than I copied Alan's setup from his Vector
as I decided the way he ran it was what I was looking to do also.
Scorpion 3020-780 KV motor, Castle 45 ESC,APC 12x6 tractor prop, 2,200 mah battery
started with the JMP 2 timer but have switched to the FM2 Hubin timer as you can
select anyone of three programed speeds at the field,very handy
Still learning, have about 20 flights on it so far.
Hey Paul,
This forum is awesome for help I agree. Thanks for sharing your setup.
On the Pathfinder I am trying something different ie going cheap with a Turnigy gold motor 35-48B-900 (equiv to Axi 2826), basic 50A ESC, Turnigy 14.8 3300Ah 4S1C 20C Battery and probably a hubin FM2 timer. All up cost of around $100 AU and it should all bolt onto the Pathfinder fairly easily.
Cheers
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Neat video. Keep it up!!!! You can even see what's happening. On some videos I've seen all there is is just a blur.
Great job.
If a picture is worth a thousand words then a movie is more than I can imagine.
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Hey Paul,
This forum is awesome for help I agree. Thanks for sharing your setup.
On the Pathfinder I am trying something different ie going cheap with a Turnigy gold motor 35-48B-900 (equiv to Axi 2826), basic 50A ESC, Turnigy 14.8 3300Ah 4S1C 20C Battery and probably a hubin FM2 timer. All up cost of around $100 AU and it should all bolt onto the Pathfinder fairly easily.
Cheers
Warren:
You need an FM-0c timer with the simple ESC - the reson being that th e simple ESC's do NOT maintain RPM as the battery drains (been there done that) The FM-0c keeps adding throttle over the time of the flight, roughly compensating for the discharge of the battery. I flew an OTS bird with that exact set-up and from beginning to end of flight it held within .1 sec/lap. I also have this kind of set-up on the 1/2A size Pathfinder and it works fine there too.
The system will work OK, but again, you are at the mercy of the ESC having a hard time keeping up with motor load. Good for sport flying, but it will not be as good as a Governing ESC like a Castle Phoenix.
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Warren:
You need an FM-0c timer with the simple ESC - the reson being that th e simple ESC's do NOT maintain RPM as the battery drains (been there done that) The FM-0c keeps adding throttle over the time of the flight, roughly compensating for the discharge of the battery. I flew an OTS bird with that exact set-up and from beginning to end of flight it held within .1 sec/lap. I also have this kind of set-up on the 1/2A size Pathfinder and it works fine there too.
The system will work OK, but again, you are at the mercy of the ESC having a hard time keeping up with motor load. Good for sport flying, but it will not be as good as a Governing ESC like a Castle Phoenix.
Good advice. I agree. I think I will use a Castle ICE 50 then. The data logging stuff sounds like fun too. I guess the best place to get this (ie esc and FM2) would be Brodaks too eh?
Regards
Warren
P.S. I'm currently uploading a 1/3 speed slo mo of a bit of the Super Clowns 1st flight. Stay tuned.
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I had to lower the res a bit, but here it is... 1/3 speed. This is part of the actual 1st flight.
[youtube=425,350]<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/NgD_tiVxI3g&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/NgD_tiVxI3g&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>[/youtube]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgD_tiVxI3g (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgD_tiVxI3g)
Enjoy
Cheers
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Warren
The old rule you get what you pay for, I had to source parts
from all over and it took a month to get every thing,but it worked.
The cheaper path may work and I guess with any mass produced item
reguardless of brand there will be failure's you may get lucky.
In reguards to the HV Champs I will again be running stunt on both days
be prepared to bring food and drink as the number of helpers to
run the event is very low,it may very well be the last year.
For this reason I was planning on flying both days,not sure how to
CD,judge and fly!
Later Paul
PS, Do not trust electric, use a stooge at all times and you need to be more alert
when around the model, it will bite you.
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Warren I forgot to comment on your excellent videos - and that is really a nice looking park to fly in. You mentioned that your plan was to fly it at 1/2 throttle but judging from the "real time" version of the vid you must have been pretty close to full throttle? You certainly looked to have a lot of power at hand.
I know folks who are flying stooge-less, I am not one of them (at least not yet!) I have not yet heard of a non-stooge timer related accident but still think Paul's advice is wise.
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Hi guys,
Paul, Yes you do get what you pay for, I am learning fast. Looks like spending a few dollars more is the better way to go especially with the ESC. Plus the lighter weight batteries seem to cost a lot more too. I've sourced my next lot of parts for the Pathfinder from about 6 different places too.
Regarding the HVC, you can fly and CD the comp, all you need to do is find a judge. Is that hard to do? John North, Ken Dowell, Ian Smith, Herbie or someone else? Would you be flying electric if you flew?
Dennis, Thanks for your comments, yes it is a nice little park. You could have two circles going easily there, but I'm not sure how well IC engines would be received by the locals. There is a lot of shady Paper Bark trees there as well.
The throttle was set at about 1/2 way I thought, so I am going to slow it down next time. It looks a bit faster on the video. I did have good line tension and it was pretty windy up high that day. I'm really happy with it.
Question: When I flew the 1st and 2nd flights, I flew 2 x 4 min flights with no battery change. (flights were about 15 mins apart). Is this is no no? I figured it should be ok because the battery has way more mAH than required. After these two flights the battery charger said it was at 65%. Comments?
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Yikes! I think you might be pressing your luck. The default cut-off voltage for the ESC is 2.85 V or about 68% of cell capacity. Did you get a full flight the second time? My guess is that you probably almost exactly maxed out the pack - you might have got a low voltage shut-off. Your less-than-peak throttle setting certainly helped. Did it seem to charge back up OK?
I strongly recommend that you keep it to about 6 minutes flight time per charge.
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Wow. People always tell me I live "on the edge". lol
It did two flights of around 4 mins, and the pack was only just warm after the 2nd flight. It charged up again fine. Lucky I didn't try for a third eh.
Perhaps a "notice" about battery use/care needs to be included in the Brodak Sport Package for future noobs (like myself) so they don't ruin their battery.
Thanks Dennis, I wont do that again.
Cheers
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I really believe the batteries are much more forgiving than 68%. My usage is different (carrier) but I push to 85% routinely and have not seen any bad effects yet.
A typical flight on my "15" sized carrier plane is as follows:
26 secs high speed (7 laps) plus half a lap to transition to slow speed at a about 35 amps. Then a couple laps at approx half throttle to deploy the hook and get into a hang. Then 8 laps at low speed. Not sure what the draw is but I'm guessing, based on some other carrier flyers data, that it's about 1/2 throttle average. There are probably 2 or maybe 3 times a lap I have to up the power to keep the hang going. The low speed is about 4 minutes. After the 8 low speed laps I try and land the next lap to save battery.
I'm using Thunderpower pro-lite 3 cell 2600 mah batteries. When I recharge I put about 2200 mah back in. The Cellpro 4 charger usually says I'm at 20% or less when I first hook it up then it drops into the teens and ramps back up. I have never seen anything less that about 3 volts/cell on the charger when I hook it up to charge.
That's probably a lot of useless information for you stunt guys but it illustrates how deep I can discharge and still have the battery packs working well on the next flight.
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Warren:
Bfrog is making some good points - namely do you have a voltmeter to check the pack? Just checking the instructions for the charger I am not exactly sure WHAT 65% means. If it is 65% of peak voltage then that is bad. If it is 65% of the allowable discharge (like bfrog describes), then you did not hurt anything.
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Hi Dennis,
I think it's all good. I think it may have actually been higher than 65% more like 75%. It charged up fine anyway.
I have another question for you. I have ordered a Castle ICE LITE 50 from Brodaks. Will this come setup with defaults set for control line (ie governor mode) or will I have to set it up myself? ie with the Castle link.
I have ordered a FM2 from Will setup for set RPM mode as well.
Regards
Warren
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Hi Dennis,
I think it's all good. I think it may have actually been higher than 65% more like 75%. It charged up fine anyway.
I have another question for you. I have ordered a Castle ICE LITE 50 from Brodaks. Will this come setup with defaults set for control line (ie governor mode) or will I have to set it up myself? ie with the Castle link.
I have ordered a FM2 from Will setup for set RPM mode as well.
Regards
Warren
Warren:
Yes you need the "Castle Link" to program the ICE 50 Lite. The link will also let you connect the ESC to your PC for downloading the data logger.
Next time you order something from Brodak get one of their "digital battery monitors, #BH-1874"This is a simple little voltmeter that you plug into the balance plug and it gives you cell by cell voltage plus a total for the pack. HobbyCity sells one too.
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Hi Dennis,
I think it's all good. I think it may have actually been higher than 65% more like 75%. It charged up fine anyway.
I have another question for you. I have ordered a Castle ICE LITE 50 from Brodaks. Will this come setup with defaults set for control line (ie governor mode) or will I have to set it up myself? ie with the Castle link.
I have ordered a FM2 from Will setup for set RPM mode as well.
Regards
Warren
Warren,
CC has been including (in principle) a coupon for a free Castle Link adapter. I am not positive if the offer is still available, but I think it is because you need the link to download the logged data (not to mention to change the setup).--added--it looks like the offer is good until August of 2010.
You still need to provide a USB cable (like the one used to connect to a camera) to use the link.
If the coupon was left out of your package (mine was), e-mail CC to get instructions on how to get the "freebie".
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Warren:
Yes you need the "Castle Link" to program the ICE 50 Lite. The link will also let you connect the ESC to your PC for downloading the data logger.
Next time you order something from Brodak get one of their "digital battery monitors, #BH-1874"This is a simple little voltmeter that you plug into the balance plug and it gives you cell by cell voltage plus a total for the pack. HobbyCity sells one too.
I ordered the ICE lite 50 from Brodaks along with a battery monitor and with some other bits n pieces. Patti posted it out today. I now have everything I need for the Pathfinder conversion ordered. Now I just have to be patient and wait for it all to arrive.
Cheers and thanks again.
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Warren,
CC has been including (in principle) a coupon for a free Castle Link adapter. I am not positive if the offer is still available, but I think it is because you need the link to download the logged data (not to mention to change the setup).--added--it looks like the offer is good until August of 2010.
You still need to provide a USB cable (like the one used to connect to a camera) to use the link.
If the coupon was left out of your package (mine was), e-mail CC to get instructions on how to get the "freebie".
Thanks Alan I will check that out.
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Allan,
I just received the Castle ICE LITE 50 in the mail. There is a card in there for a free Castle Link, however when I go to their web page to fill out the order form, they still want to charge me $25 for international mail. Which is a shame because it will probably only cost them about $1 for the postage. Oh well, I guess I might email them and hassle them up about it.
Cheers
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Allan,
I just received the Castle ICE LITE 50 in the mail. There is a card in there for a free Castle Link, however when I go to their web page to fill out the order form, they still want to charge me $25 for international mail. Which is a shame because it will probably only cost them about $1 for the postage. Oh well, I guess I might email them and hassle them up about it.
Cheers
Yes I would hassle them!
The actual thing fits in a normal envelope, and I believe that's the way they are sending these items.. and I am pretty sure they aren't charging $25. So yes e-mail them (to the sales department, not the tech department) and explain the situation.
They seem to have issues with their web page setup for this free offer. A lot of people have complained.
Alan
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It worked! I emailed Castle Creations and got a reply back pretty quickly. They are going to send me one - no charges at all.
Cheers