stunthanger.com
Electric Stunt => Gettin all AMP'ed up! => Topic started by: Mark Scarborough on April 22, 2013, 10:56:13 PM
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Well, since its not in primer any longer,, and its now electric, I figured I should start a new topic and move it here..
for those who may want to backtrack, the link to the other thread is here
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=8333.150
this picture is not all that great,, low light with my camera, but it shows the gear wheel well covers being fabbed,,
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one additional note, not sure I have mentioned it previously, but the exhaust stacks are actually functional,, they vent the battery compartment,,
its pretty hard to show in a photo though,,
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Another artist at work. I like it.
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Glad to see it will have gear doors. I was wondering.,
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Yeah, I did not have time to make them before I painted,, my window of oppurtunity for using the shop to paint was rather small and I ran out of time,,
but these are pretty easy to finish and paint in the corner,,
well they are not easy to make actually,, with the gear layout,, getting the doors to align with the direction of flight is going to be a trick,, they are large enough they could cause trim issues,, so I must be accurate,,
and make them removable, just in case,,
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You're going to paint the exhaust stacks, right?
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You're going to paint the exhaust stacks, right?
what,, you dont think there are prototypes out there with yellow stacks?
man your picky,, I finally paint the thing and now you want to pick it apart LOL HB~>
how about some advice on how to insure the wheel well covers are aligned,, now that would help
oh and yeah,, I am going to paint the stacks,, H^^
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how about some advice on how to insure the wheel well covers are aligned,, now that would help
You make those nifty trompe l'oell wing innards and you can't figure out how to align your wheel doors?
Painters. Sheesh.
Two ways, just off the top of my head:
One: make a triangular dingus to set on the fuselage right about at the tail wheel, and exactly the slope and size of the wheel doors. Clamp the wheel doors to a pair of stout balsa sticks (or paint sticks) extending back to the dingus, and attach them to the dingus. That should let you arrange everything so that it's square and straight at your leisure. Then use glue or solder or whatever you're scheming on to nail the wheel doors down to the landing gear legs.
Two: make a small rectangular dingus that sets on the doors. When the fuselage is level both ways, and the dingus is level both ways, it'll hold the doors straight.
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how about some advice on how to insure the wheel well covers are aligned,, now that would help
I'd just trust the 'ol eyeballs on the gear doors Mark. Kneel down and give it a good long stare from the nose. y1
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I'd just trust the 'ol eyeballs on the gear doors Mark. Kneel down and give it a good long stare from the nose. y1
Thats pretty much my game plan,, that and making them removable ( shile the struts stay attached) in case there is any question of misalignments,,
oh did I forget to mention that I am building up the gear legs too?
I must,, it simply would not look right with bare wire hanging out there,, I did resist getting Tim to machine me a working gear leg oleo strut though,,
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I did resist getting Tim to machine me a working gear leg oleo strut though,,
If you change the gear to that trademark BF-109 "we don't need no steenkin' beginner pilots" ground-loop inducing narrow track and splayed out wheels, I'll see what I can do.
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Thats pretty much what it is,, the exit location from the wing is 90% scale,, the gear angle is 85% scale,,
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Those axles on yours look distinctly level with the ground:
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/7b/Bf109V1_3Seiten_neu.jpg/800px-Bf109V1_3Seiten_neu.jpg)
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85% level. ;D
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Tim,, first off, thats like what, a 3 view for an A model? I dont think they even made more than a few of those,, mine is an E model,, Emil,,,
as to the wheels not being angled,, yeah, well this coming from the guy with the Waix stunter,, riggghhhhttt,, LOL
its enough of a headache to get them to align with the wheels vertical,, and besides,, this is a stunter that kinda looks like a 109,, some some license is taken,, besides, hey, it would make it easier to make the gear,, less side loads on the axles,,
Randy,, you got it,, its 85%,,
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Looks GREAT Mark. Happy to see you are finishing, and happy that you 'lectrified it. I have also been setting up the new birds to use flow-through exhaust stacks. The air outlet side is always harder to figure out..
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Mark,
Just a suggestion for aligning wheels on a Semi-scale airplane which sits nose high. When you launch, the airplane will pitch nose down to a level attitude. This nose down pitch is accompanied with a gyroscopic yaw to the left, inside the circle. You will get much better take offs if you align both wheels tilted slightly toward the inboard wing tip and launch with the nose slightly out. the airplane will align as the tail comes up and the take off rolls and landing roll outs will be terrific. all of my airplanes have been aligned this way since I finally cured a Mustang from running in on take off about 20 years ago. Anyone who has seem my airplanes fly will confirm that my airplanes ground handling is exceptionally nice.
Al
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Al
When you put a pusher prop on the motor and run it clockwise the yaw to the outside of the circle. At least my All American did, it never once tried to come in on me.
Andy
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Mark,
Just a suggestion for aligning wheels on a Semi-scale airplane which sits nose high. When you launch, the airplane will pitch nose down to a level attitude. This nose down pitch is accompanied with a gyroscopic yaw to the left, inside the circle. You will get much better take offs if you align both wheels tilted slightly toward the inboard wing tip and launch with the nose slightly out. the airplane will align as the tail comes up and the take off rolls and landing roll outs will be terrific. all of my airplanes have been aligned this way since I finally cured a Mustang from running in on take off about 20 years ago. Anyone who has seem my airplanes fly will confirm that my airplanes ground handling is exceptionally nice.
Al
Al, thank you for your input,, It is truly appreciated.
My humble semi-scale certainly is not in the same league as your beautiful birds, but they were definitely an inspiration.
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Andy,
I can only speak with authority what I routinely experience. I don't run reverse props. No need I have a movable rudder (Rabe rudder) and I simply dial in whatever line tension characteristics I need. Good outsides overhead are no problem. I just add extras right rudder on down elevator. (So does Igor).
Al
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Al
I have no doubt at all that your rudder design does exactly what you say it does. I can't even say for certain that reversing the motor direction and installing a pusher prop will work as well as your rudder design. What I can say is it will keep the plane from coming in on the pilot during take off and it does seem to help with line tension on maneuvers flown above 45 degrees. Also it requires no mechanical change to the airplane to implement.
Andy
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Well what works for one may not work for the next person. I built and flew the Mustunt I with no modifications. Won my first stunt trophy with it. Now if it weren't so hard to get left hand engines I might try reverse pitch prop to see if there is a difference. Anyway, lets keep having fun.
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Hi Doc
That's one of the beauties of electric, there are no right or left handed motor. Electrics run equally well both clockwise and counterclockwise with the simple switching of any two of the three motor power leads. The biggest problem with clockwise operation is finding the right pusher prop for the application. This often leads to a lot of prop modification. For the record I run all my motors clockwise unless I absolutely cannot find or make a prop that fits.
Andy
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When you put a pusher prop on the motor and run it clockwise the yaw to the outside of the circle. At least my All American did, it never once tried to come in on me.
All the more reason to ban electrics from Old Time. You need that panic takeoff for authenticity with an All American.
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All the more reason to ban electrics from Old Time. You need that panic takeoff for authenticity with an All American.
Naw, with a LH prop you can fly it JUST the way deBolt did with the torque working for him. MORE AUTHENTIC that way....
(sorry for my contribution to thread drift, but I still got PROPS to sell!)
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Hey
Where are the new pictures??
Have I said that ship looks awesome??
Marcus
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All the more reason to ban electrics from Old Time. You need that panic takeoff for authenticity with an All American.
Right on Howard. y1
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Hey Mark, where are the flight reports??
Now can you imagine what Old Time or even Classic be like if we had to build and fly the planes like the designer did it!!!
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Hey Mark, where are the flight reports??
Must be painting the gear doors. D>K ;D
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Yea, those gear door can take a lot of time.
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holy crap guys,, I painted it in two days,, really,, and your impatient,, by the way its still not flying weather here on the Palouse, well occasionally,,
Actually could not work on it today,, my RC club did a mall show today, I had it over there ( even with the bare wood gear doors),, it was fairly well recieved,,
tomorrow, on to the gear legs,,
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I know what you mean. I've been moving a bit slow on my own build. Hey, stuff takes time.
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Is it soup yet?
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Nope, not quite,, but close
this final fidgety mounting of all the stuff, well its a pain,
I am glad I converted this plane over, but man, I hate myself for it too
It would be a lot simpler had it been an electric from the git go,,
I will be flying it this week,,
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Flying it this week...
Yeah, maybe even in Deer Park!!!
I saw it last week (prior to being ready for flight). Looks great. I can't wait to see it fly.
Now get up here Mark!
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Paul,
thanks for the comments and confidence,, it looks like my schedule freed up some,, kind of a "forced vacation" so I may be ready before Thursday,,
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Lets see a picture of the whole model please
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short synopsis of my day at the Walker stunt ranch
new Eflight 25 ,, flew 3 two minute flights,, working on getting the wings level
Plane was making a funny ticking noise, tried to diagnose,,,funny but a glow airplane you would have never heard it
motor was growling, like a faulty bearing,, went to replace with back up motor( I picked up at B and b on the way there)
could NOT get the stupid collet to release finally after about 45 minutes we got it out, replaced motor,, the new one was much smoother,
flew more, still ticking but the motor was ok,, got wings level,, started doing some manuevers,, had to do a few flap tweaks,, ( by the way, If I ever talk about building a new plane without removable controls,, please just shoot me!)
started doing patterns,, was getting dialed in, then one takeoff snagged the prop and tipped the plane over ( remember this)
got it back upright, reinstalled the prop ( go figure the stupid collet let the prop run away and came off the plane this time!!)
flew it, it was doing some weird stuff on the outsides,,
removed some tip weight flew again, weird stuff worse
decided it needed more flap, less elevator,, flipped it over and boom!! there is a crack mid-span on the elevator sheeting just outboard of the lift struts,, theory is,, when it flipped over, it stressed it and it just cracked while flying,,
so repairs to be made,, but I think it has potential,,
MANY thanks to Paul for his patience and willingness to work me through this,, I learned,,
I think the game plan will be to inlay several strips of carbon tow lenghtwise on the hingeline and leading edge, then radially several locations along the stab,, then finish with a strip of glass cloth,, then filll sand and feather,, repaint,
Not sure it will get painted before the regionals,, but maybe no one will turn it over eh?
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What a good looking model! Sorry about the stab. It should be not too hard to fix. How I would do it and this is just a suggestion. Drill a small hole at the crack ends. Carefully take a no 11 blade and force crack open slightly. Mix z poxy because its slow set and sandable. carefully fill crack. Let cure and sand a touch up. You will not be able to tell.
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Mark;
Instead of carbon tow that can be somewhat 'messy' to work with, how about routing out channels of the appropriate width/depth, and inserting small diameter carbon rods so they are flush with the surface?
Just a thought...
r/
Dave
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well here is the repair in progress,,
I thank you for all your input,, it was taken into advisement
what I elected to do was to sand a shallow channel in the hingeline, and the leading edge sheeting,,
epoxied a strip of CF tow into the channel, and now I am sanding down the finish to overcoat the area with a layer of glass cloth to tie it all together,,
since its electric, once its structurally repaired I can prime it and keep flying it preparing for the regionals,, and work on the finish repairs in the evening ( or when its to windy to fly)
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Mark brought the model over to my house. It looks better in person then the photos can detail! Now that it has a little nick it should fly beautifully.
Rob
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Well said, it should fly even better now. As far as turning the plane over, how many contests do you go to in which appearance jusges turn the plane over. I remember a stalwart in stunt in the KCMo area was working on his plane getting ready for an upcoming meet. I happened to see it inverted and asked if it was a new plane. He said, no it is the same one he had been flying all year. He also stated why spend all the time polishing the bottom if you don't see it on the ground.
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Thanks Rob,,
now that it has its first "scratch",, ( though if YOU were flying it with the weird stuff it was doing,, not sure you would call it a scratch LOL) I can fly the pi$$ out of it,, its carboned, glassed and curing today,, will sand the glass smooth tonight and see how much additional work I need to do beyond that,, I plan to fly it tomorrow again,,
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#^ #^ #^ 8) 8)
Marcus
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Mark,
The repair looks like it's coming along. Looks good. wish I could see it fly this weekend.
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its as done as it will get actually,,
just sprayed primer on it,,I dont think I have time to paint it or paint the wheel well covers either
so it will fly as is,,
by the way, did I mention it looks pretty cool in the air?
wish you were going to make it Randy, ya will be missed,,
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Mark,It certainly looks good just sitting ;D ;D Very nice!!!!Trax
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Mark,
Is that a "GreatPlanes" Nylon Spinner with aluminum back plate you have on the nose of the 109? I've been thinking about building another Bf109T1 for carrier and would like to use a spinner on the nose. Besides cutting off the front of the spinner I was thinking that I could do a little work on the aluminum back plate like contouring the holes to suck air through and blowing it at the motor. You have a very nice looking plane there and I hope to see at the NWR. Eric
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Eric,
that is indeed what it is,, I did think about airfoiling the backplate but have not. So far it seems to be cooling well. When I test flew it, It was about 70 degrees and I had no issues,,
thanks for the comments, it will be in Eugene,, no garauntees on how long it will live LOL
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Well, I took the 109 to the Regionals hoping to get some flying in on friday,,The weather was not really condusive to flying for trim so after a few flights I decided she was not ready for prime time..
I need to fly it more to isolate what it is that feels strange,, something in the squares,
The one good weather flight I got in was enough to know I would compromise it by flying it for judges yet
so I went with the Avenger,, My Advanced flight was as solid as I have flown for awhile IMHO<,,,, D>K
( well I think my second flight in classic was actually a prettier presentation,, until it short ran in the overheads,, sigh)