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Author Topic: I just can't win this thing.  (Read 687 times)

Offline Ty Marcucci

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I just can't win this thing.
« on: May 24, 2012, 12:45:45 PM »
Well, with the repaired nose on the E Magnum Plus finished I went  flying yesterday. First flight, nice. Smooth quiet, lots of line tension, but too big maneuvers.  . Second flight,  all set, Rollin launched the big beast and off it went. Then about ten laps into the flight, the "noise" started again. I'm going, "Oh no, not again" and sure enough the motor stopped dead. Nice landing. Rollin pulls the plug and says the motor is almost out of the nose.
It seems these motors have a huge amount of torque and I should know this.  But this time the plywood motor mount split in the vertical plane or delaminated.  I've never seen this before except for full on crashes on IC powered planes.   I'm going to have to rebuild the entire nose with better ply.
« Last Edit: July 17, 2017, 01:10:40 PM by Ty Marcucci »
Ty Marcucci

Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: I just can't win this thing.
« Reply #1 on: May 24, 2012, 01:42:40 PM »
Ty,

It was great to meet you at the GA meet last week, nice to put a face to the names on this board.

The short answer is - yes they have a lot of torque, with less vibration. If it is turning the same size prop as a 40, at the same rpm and pulls the ship as the same speed it has the same torque as its IC counterpart. With electric looks are deceiving, they look small and innocent, but they are like a sawed off shot gun still pack a hell of a punch. You are not alone, others have had this same thing happen several times on the same ship.

The key is to install a stronger firewall to mount to just as you would for a firewall mounted IC engine maybe a bit stronger. Remember we have prop and Rotor spinning and creating gyroscopic forces that the mount has to hold. I don't know if you had a change to see the electric mount the Tom Morris had but it is very strong and similar to what I have used for the past three years with no failures. The main feature is the 3/16" plywood mount ring that is attached with screws to the hardwood beam mounts. When I retrofit the Stuka with electric I used a 3/16" nose firewall to mount to that has four 1/4" small screws through the existing plywood fuse sides in addition to epoxy glue and gussets. The way Tom does it on the profile is to install the mount ring to the front of the beam mounts and screw into them, then adds the side pod for additional support. One other point is once the mount ring is complete saturate it with a couple coats of CA to harden the surface, this will reduce any side to side movement that can work on the mount structure.

Best,      DennisT

Offline Wynn Robins

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Re: I just can't win this thing.
« Reply #2 on: May 24, 2012, 02:30:52 PM »
you're not alone Ty - my first try at flying my legay ripped the nose completely off back to the LE........you learn the hard way that the power of these little cans is just as much as the IC jobs.

with the ply  I make my own by laminating 2-3 layers of 1/8" together with carbon in between, then epoxy some G10 plate to the front......tough as nails and does not weigh too much .....
In the battle of airplane versus ground, the ground is yet to lose

Offline bob branch

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Re: I just can't win this thing.
« Reply #3 on: May 24, 2012, 09:19:48 PM »
Ty
Torque on an electric is just not at all like what we have come to expect with glow. Take any size glo motor you want. Take a PA .75. Put a big apc prop on it. Start it so its running only 50 rpm... no I'm not joking. Now stick it into the side of a GM car's hard plastic interior material that is on the inside side panels. What happens? Right, it stops immediately. I had an accident where a multi battery powered plane got only one pack, not both disconnected. It was put back in the car and this exact senario occurred. Literally 50 rpm. Result? in 15 seconds it ground a 6 inch gash thru the side of the vehicle! And it was no where gonna stop due to the car being there. And that was with only half the battery power in the airplane. THAT is what torque is all about in electric airplanes. I never use less than a 1/4 inch birch ply (not lite ply) motor mount bulkhead in a full size stunter. You can look at my T-Rex or SV-11 build theads for how I mount them. Its a system Rick Sawicki developed. We have never had a motor mount or nose failure. I have been flying electrics in cl about 6 years now and Rick... well, no one but maybe Big Art's demo flight way back when predates him in cl electric stunt that I have heard of.

bob branch

Offline Peter Ferguson

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Re: I just can't win this thing.
« Reply #4 on: May 24, 2012, 09:35:56 PM »
Heres a suggestion, I front mount my motors using 1/8" aluminum sheet to make my motor mounts and I JB weld them into the nose with fillets on both sides . Lots of flights with my efite 32 5S setup and no sign of weakening. I drill the mounting  plate for motor cooling holes and mounting.
Peter Ferguson
Auburn, WA

Offline bob branch

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Re: I just can't win this thing.
« Reply #5 on: May 24, 2012, 09:46:39 PM »
Peter

That is an interesting way to do it! The 1/8 inch aluminum sounds perfectly adequate for a nose mount. I used aluminum rear ie bulkhead mount in an electric strega. 1/8 inch aluminum was not adequate for rear mount with a 4250 nor an axi 2826/12. Had to make an aluminum doubler to stop the flexing. That might give a hint to some as to the amount of torque these things will generate.

bob branch

Offline Dean Pappas

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Re: I just can't win this thing.
« Reply #6 on: May 25, 2012, 11:42:53 AM »
Hi Gang,
Hunt is gearing up to sell 0.093" thick G-10 (circuit board material) motor-mount bulkheads, for just this reason. Plywood is splitting or more commonly crushing under the motor mounting bolts, and once looseness happens, things start wobbling and beat themselves to death.
I'll take a picture of the 1st batch item I have and attach it here, later.
Regards,
  Dean P.
Dean Pappas


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