In a thread called “Heat is STILL the Enemy” I recounted my recent tribulations with an overheating ESC. Well mindful of that experience and with a whole drawer full of Turnigy ESC’s on hand I set out to prempt the overheating experience. Crist Righotti posted a link to somone's instructions on adding a heat sink, here's my similar approach showing how I added a modified CPU heat sink to a Turnigy ESC.
First step was to remove the shrink wrap from the ESC. You can use a scissors or a knife, I found that I could slit it then gently tear it. (Pix file 004 & 006)
The Turnigy has a flat plate aluminum sink UNDER the shrink wrap. It is not attached, but does have a thin silicone rubber pad under it. I think the pad is part electrical insulator and partly for shock resistance – I left it in. (pix files 009 & 011)
I looked around for some CPU-thermal epoxy but none was to be had, however its pretty easy to find thermal ”grease”. I applied that to the back of my finned heatsink (pix file 017) to improve the contact area between my add-on heatsink and the Turnigy’s aluminum plate.
I used some high-tech(!) heavy duty carpet thread to wrap & retain the finned heat sink in place. I also added some tape for insulation of the battery leads and leads to the motor. (pix file 021) The fins are very tall, probably a LOT more than I would ever need - but why not! Each fin is roughly the same area as the "stock" alum plate on the Turnigy ESC.
The modified ESC was then installed in the lower battery hatch of my Sheeks “Swinger”. Only the fins protrude into the open air stream. However, the faux landing gear doors Do a pretty good job of keeping the heat sink out of view.
Have not flown the new set-up yet, but ground checks show substantially improved heat rejection, and the ability to hold a steady 100W OVER the intended flight power setting.
I think it will work..!
Topic: Adding a Finned Heat Sink (Read 1283 times)
