On to the bell crank.
I make my bell cranks from 1/8 linen phenolic. They are4 inch cranks with a 5/8 push rod throw. Yeah I like "slow" controls. Once the shape is cut out, filed and sanded to shape, I epoxied on 5/16 squares on either side of the crank where the post will go. This serves 2 purposes. It provides more bearing surface, but most important it keeps the crank from tipping on the shaft. Once cured, I drill a #30 hole for the 1/8 music wire post. The #30 drill is just slightly larger than 1/8 and gives a nice fit for the post.
Time to solder the crank in position on the post. I sand and clean the post. I then drilled a 1/8 hole straight down using my drill press through some hardwood maple motor mount stock that I have. The post will be tight fit in this hole. I then use a 4-40 fender washer and a 1/8 line eyelet on the shaft. These are soldered to the shaft. The shaft is flipped over, the bell crank is installed on the post, fender washer, and finally another 1/8 line eyelet. Again these are soldered to the post. When cooled, it is cleaned with acetone and some circuit board cleaner to remove any flux residue. The crank should spin freely but with out any tipping. I added some chain lube and now it's ready for the lead outs.
I use .027 stranded lead out wire I got from MBS Supply. Good people! I also bush the bell crank with some 1/16 OD brass tubing that has been annealed with a propane torch till cherry red then allowed to cool naturally. Each tube is 2 1/2 long.
I mark the center of each tube and thread the LO so that about 2 1/2 to 3" sticks though. BTW the bell crank holes for the LO is 5/64" with the edges ever so slightly beveled with 1/4 drill. I insert the tube to the halfway mark and bend both ends around till they meet. If I see that one end is a little longer, I hold the short end still and keep bending the long end till the match. I put a small bend in the LO so that both ends are parallel so I can wrap them a lot easier with copper wire. I use 28awg wire from MBS Supply. I tape the free end to the LO and then put some pull on the LO end to make wrapping easier. I wrap them like the AMA book, fold the free end back and wrap them again. Both ends are then twisted together, cut off, and folded along the the wrapped section. I then use 1/8 clear heat shrink tubing 5/8 long to hold it all together. This way it will remain flexible.
I then bolt on a 4-40 ball link I get from Tom Morris.
The crank, post, ball link, and lead outs weighs 20 grams.