stunthanger.com
Electric Stunt => Gettin all AMP'ed up! => Topic started by: Crist Rigotti on September 30, 2012, 05:44:07 PM
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Building season doesn't really start till tomorrow, but I jumped the gun. I started building the wing today. Pictures to follow along with some details on the new stunter.
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Hey Crist,
I'll be here with my learnin cap on.Thanx for posting so all can enjoy H^^ H^^ H^^
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It will have a foam wing this year and tricycle landing gear. The wing area is 572 square inches. The motor will be a Cobra 2826/12 760Kv.
After I cut the foam, I sand the fuzz off and round the LE. The spar is made from 1/8 Lite-Ply with lightening holes. I used some PICA-GLUIT glue I had for gluing wood to plastic (foam). The 1/16 LE sheeting is on the LE mold and is drying. I expect to mold the 2nd LE sheeting tomorrow.
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I made the ribs from 1/8 Lite-Ply, notched for the LG block, and cut out for the lead outs. All glued in and drying.
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Tuned in for the build Crist. Your build threads are always very informational. Thanks for the taking the extra time to document it.
Jason
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Why wing mounted gear and not fuselage mounted gear on this one?
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Why wing mounted gear and not fuselage mounted gear on this one?
I will be using a trike gear on this one, just like last year. A fuselage mounted trike gear just doesn't look right.
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Time for some details.
Winspan = 55"
Wing Area = 572 sq/in
Root Airfoil = 1 3/4"
Tip Airfoil = 1 1/2"
Tail Volume = 29%
Flap = 16%
Motor = Cobra 2826/12 760Kv
Battery = TP G6 Pro Lite 5S 2700mah
ESC = Phoenix 45
Timer = Hubin F9
Est Weight = 50 oz
Prop = APC 13x5.5 WEP cut down to 12" - thick hub
Yes, it is nearly a copy of the full fuselage Thundervolt from 2012. This one will be a profile.
I think I'll paint this one. At least the fuselage. The wings, stab, flaps, and elevators will be Monokote.
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Hi Crist!
I like the fuselage look. Kinda like the jets from the late '60s and early '70s. It's a good look IMHO.
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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Hi Crist!
I like the fuselage look. Kinda like the jets from the late '60s and early '70s. It's a good look IMHO.
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
Bill,
I got a lot of compliments on how good the built up fuselage Thundervolt looks in the air, so I decided to build a profile version to replace the Resolve EP.
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Hey Crist, need any Sig Dope ??? lol. How come you don't use Scorpion's anymore ??
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Hey Crist, need any Sig Dope ??? lol. How come you don't use Scorpion's anymore ??
Lee,
I have plenty of dope. It's the thinner I need. Dupont 3608S.
Scorpion's have gone up a lot in price and the Cobra motors have much larger ball bearings.
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I've got a gallon. Nobody in Iowa City or CR carry it ??
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I've got a gallon. Nobody in Iowa City or CR carry it ??
I haven't checked yet this year.
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I glued in the LG blocks using 30 minute epoxy. Then the foam was trimmed and glued in place.
I made up the wing TE. Each TE consists of 2 pieces of 3/16 x 1/4 with 1/32 spacers to create hinge slots. I use medium CA to assemble these against a wax paper protected straight edge. Then I drew a line about 1/16 down on the aft part of the TE. These lines will be used as a guide when planning/sanding down the TE to match the foam core airfoil. The TE sheeting will go over the TE. This eliminates a visible seam on each side of each panel.
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Oops, forgot to show you the first LE sheeting as it came off the mold. Turned out good. The second one is drying. I cheated on these by putting the mold/sheeting in the oven. Usually I just place it over a hot air register during the winter. It isn't cold enough to have the furnace on, so no hot air register. I turned the oven to its lowest setting of 170 degrees F and let it heat up for about a minute or 2. Then turned off the oven and left to door open about 6 inches. I did this several times over and hour or so. Then pulled the mold/sheeting and placed in the shop. I'll remove the sheeting tomorrow.
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Crist,
Your timing is perfect.I am getting ready to assemble those cores I got at the FCM contest and had a whole bunch of questions I was going to bug you with.PLEASE keep up those wonderful pics!!!!!
Jeff
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I will be using a trike gear on this one, just like last year. A fuselage mounted trike gear just doesn't look right.
My bad. Missed the tri gear set up.
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OK , let's keep moving on. I glued on the TE this morning. I use masking tape to hold them in position then I placed the wing in the cradles and weight them down to assure a straight TE. I align the 1/32 hinge slot spacer with the centerline of the rib when gluing on the TE.
This evening I tapered the TE using a piece of 1" masking tape to protect the foam and then used my hobby plane to shave down the TE to the ink lines. The ink lines assure a straight and even taper to each side of the TE. After planning, I hit it with a long sanding bar with 180 grit. Nice!
I then trimmed the LE sheeting to size. I used masking tape to position the sheeting in place and used a pin to mark the aft end of the sheeting. Hit the pin mark with a ball point pen, then trimmed it using my yardstick. Once the LE sheeting is trimmed to size I marked the ends of the LG block with long ink lines. I then traced those lines to the sheeting. I then measured the distance from the aft side of the LG block to the edge of the sheeting. Transfer this distance to the sheeting then I used a small left over piece of LG block to mark the width of the cut out.
Then I epoxied the LE sheeting to the foam cores, weighted them down and left the shop. BTW, I used a small disposable touch up brush to apply a small amount of epoxy to each edge of the spar and the ribs for extra insurance.
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Here is an interesting jpg. It is a comparison of this years Thundervolt and a Legacy 40.
About 10 years ago, Allen Brickhaus invited me to build 1 of the 2 proto-types of his Legacy 40. I did and liked the way it flew. I won a lot of trophies with that bird moving up the ranks from beginner to advanced. It got pretty well oil soaked and hangs on the wall now.
Just for kicks, I decided to compare the 2 designs so I superimposed them over each other using my CAD program DeltaCAD. I lined up the centerline of the wings and their LE. The Legacy 40 is in the maroon color. The result almost floored me! After 10 years of designing my own, I guess I never strayed far from the Legacy 40 design!
Anyway I thought it was an interesting experiment and I thought I'd share it with you.
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I would bet there are a lot of other designs that would be pretty close also. Thanks for the construction photos.
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Yeah, you're probably right Doc.
Tonight I prepped the remaining sheeting and I'll glue it on the cores tomorrow.
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Tonight the remaining sheeting was glued on the cores.
I drew the outline of the sheeting on each side of the cores with a ball point pen. I then cut out the center and tip sheeting to size with the corner radius. The edges were trued up against a sanding block. I cut the TE stock to length and oversize chord wise. Again the edges were trued with a sanding block. I then taped the center and tip sheeting in place on the cores, then taped the TE sheeting to them. I removed the masking tape holding the sheeting assembly to the core then flipped it over and used CA to tack glue the TE sheeting the the other pieces. I removed the masking tape so the sheeting will lie flat when I finish glueing the pieces together. After the CA kicks a few swipes with a sanding bar and the sheeting is ready to go.
To glue the sheeting to the core I first wet the LE sheeting with a Q-Tip along with the center and tip sheeting. This swells the wood slightly and when glued and clamped with masking tape forms a very tight invisible seam.
I tape wax paper down to my bench top and then masked off the area of the TE sheeting that will be joined to the balsa TE previously glued on. I then applied my epoxy and cleaned off most of it with my spreader. I then remove the masking tape and apply PICA Glu-it to the LE portion of the center and tip sheeting. I also run a bead of the glue down the balsa TE. I then position the sheeting on the core and use masking tape to "clamp" the sheeting tightly to the LE sheeting. Then on goes the cradles and the weights till tomorrow. The reason I use PICA Glu-it on the seams and TE sheeting is that it sands very well and gives me a good edge when I round the TE. I've used epoxy all the way down to the TE but I find it leaves a hard "ridge" where the 2 are joined when rounding off the TE.
I built the bellcrank tonight and its drying in the vise. I'll explain that tomorrow.
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Capstrips!
I use 1/8 phenolic for my bell cranks. I triple it up by the post using epoxy. This keeps the bell crank from tipping and give a larger "bearing" surface. Tomorrow I'll sand the wings, add the weight box and tips.
Oops! I'll be flying a Ringmaster tomorrow (Saturday) then the Davenport R/C club has a night fly that Floyd and I will be attending and flying in.
So maybe I'll get the wing done by Sunday night.
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The wing panels are ready to join. Tomorrow I'll make up the flap pushrod, cut the slot, then join the wing panels.
Today I built the weight box and installed it.
The bottom is made from 1/8 5-ply Birch, the side from 1/8 Lite-ply, and the linings are from 1/64 ply. The cover is made from 1/8 5-ply birch, 1/4 balsa, 4-40 washer (under the head of the screw) and some 7/32 aluminum tubing.
I had to notch the foam some to get the box deep enough into the wing tip. The weight box is secured with epoxy and micro-balloons.
The bell crank uses 1/8 music wire post, 2 4-40 fender washers, and 2 1/8 line eyelets. I use solder the secure the whole assembly. The ball link sits on a spacer and uses a 4-40 screw with a washer under the head. I used .027 lead out wire I got from Melvin Scheutte. Good people. I use annealed 1/16 brass tubing as bushings and LO eyelets. All wrapped with bare copper wire. Again obtained from Melvin. I then use clear heat shrink tubing to secure the ends.
The lead out guide is made from a center lamination of 1/8 basswood with the grain going vertical, and 2 pieces of 1/16 basswood with the grain lengthwise. 1/8 holes were drilled every 1/4 inch and the holes were connected with a 1/32+ slot. The end of the LO guide were the slot was started was filled in with 1/64 ply. The slot was fromed using my bandsaw then opened up with sandpaper.
The 3/32 balsa tips were added and doubled up with 1/32 basswood to provide some toughness along with a coat of thin CA along the edges.
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The wings are joined and drying. I cut out the pushrod hole in the LH panel and then glued the wings together. I also made up the CF pushrods. Same way as the full fuselage Thundervolt. No pictures tonight.
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The wing has been sanded and the TE rounded. I cut the vent holes in each rib bay between each spar to allow air to move around and as an aid when Monokoting. I use a template and a soldering iron to cut the holes.
I cut the silkspan circles and will apply them tomorrow with nitrate dope for the center section reinforcement.
The wing weighs 9.2 oz as it sits with the weight box lid and screw. Looks like I'll make my goal of 12 ounces for the wing all covered with Monokote, trim, weight box and cover and screw, and flap pushrod and ball links.
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Crist,
In photo 6892a your 1/8" wire bellcrank post is only trapped in the styrofoam? And it looks like the 1/8" wire ends are just under the surface of the wing sheeting. Did I miss something when you joined the wing halfs or is this your latest method of installing the bellcrank in the wing ?
Bob
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Crist,
In photo 6892a your 1/8" wire bellcrank post is only trapped in the styrofoam? And it looks like the 1/8" wire ends are just under the surface of the wing sheeting. Did I miss something when you joined the wing halfs or is this your latest method of installing the bellcrank in the wing ?
Bob
Bob,
The bell crank post rests up against and is epoxied to the 1/8 Lite-Ply spar. The top and bottom of the post are trapped by the 1/16 sheeting which has been hardened by CA. Then it will be covered by 3 layers of doped silkspan (see following post) then be trapped by the profile fuselage. The outboard wing 1/8 Lite-Ply spar is glued against the the bell crank post when joining the wing halves.
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Tonight I started to apply the 3 silkspan circles to each side of the wing for my center section reinforcement. 2 coats of slightly thinned Sig nitrate dope followed by the 4 inch circle centered over the bell crank post. 2 more coats of dope then the 6 inch circle then 3 more coats of dope. I sanded lightly between each coat of dope. Tomorrow the 9 inch circle will be applied with 3 or 4 coats of dope.
I made up my flaps tonight. I'm using my laminated method of 2 pieces of 3/16 7.5# balsa and a piece of 1/32 10# balsa for my hinge slots. After cutting out the hinge slots in the 1/32 balsa, the slot location is transferred to each 3/16 side. Then I use 3/4 masking tape to tape off each hinge slot on the 3/16 balsa. This is to keep the epoxy from getting into the hinge slot when gluing the 3 pieces together. After they are glued, they are weighted down with a board on top till tomorrow.
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Bob,
The bell crank post rests up against and is epoxied to the 1/8 Lite-Ply spar. The top and bottom of the post are trapped by the 1/16 sheeting which has been hardened by CA. Then it will be covered by 3 layers of doped silkspan (see following post) then be trapped by the profile fuselage. The outboard wing 1/8 Lite-Ply spar is glued against the the bell crank post when joining the wing halves.
Bob,
Thinking more about your question I think you are asking about what is trapping the bell crank post fore and aft...right? Yes, it is the epoxy to hold the post to the spar and the foam. I didn't give it much thought about the post moving fore and aft. My mind was with the pull test and movement up and down. I'll have to think about fore and aft. Anybody have any thoughts on this. I have till I glue the wing to the fuselage to make any changes if needed.
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Crist,
In photo 6892a your 1/8" wire bellcrank post is only trapped in the styrofoam? And it looks like the 1/8" wire ends are just under the surface of the wing sheeting. Did I miss something when you joined the wing halfs or is this your latest method of installing the bellcrank in the wing ?
Bob
Bob,
If this were a wing on a fuselage mounted LG, then I would use some 1/8 5-ply ply on the top and bottom of the wing because all that would be there would be foam. This wing uses a wing mounted LG so there is a 1/8 Lite-Ply spar that the bell crank is glued to.
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Crist,
If you still have a set of the Legacy 40 plans you made up with the foam wing adaptation you'll see the method you got me hooked on when building a foam wing. Cutting a 3/4" circle in the 1/16" balsa wing skin above the bellcrank post (top and bottom) then installing a 1/16" plywood disk with a hole drilled in the center to trap the bellcrank post and preventing it from moving fore and aft or inboard and outboard. On a profile ship I let the fuselage stop it from moving up or down. If I do a full bodied ship I would lay another 1/16" disk on top of the post to prevent it from going up or down.
Bob
p.s. are you still out of the wing cutting business ?
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Crist,
If you still have a set of the Legacy 40 plans you made up with the foam wing adaptation you'll see the method you got me hooked on when building a foam wing. Cutting a 3/4" circle in the 1/16" balsa wing skin above the bellcrank post (top and bottom) then installing a 1/16" plywood disk with a hole drilled in the center to trap the bellcrank post and preventing it from moving fore and aft or inboard and outboard. On a profile ship I let the fuselage stop it from moving up or down. If I do a full bodied ship I would lay another 1/16" disk on top of the post to prevent it from going up or down.
Bob
p.s. are you still out of the wing cutting business ?
Yes, the plywood disk works great. That wing did not have the 1/8 Lite-Ply spar. If this wing was like that, that was the way I would have done it.
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Tonight I applied the 3rd circle of silkspan on each side of the wing followed by 3 coats of nitrate dope.
I also tapered the flaps tonight. I used the "Perret Bar" method to plane and sand in the taper.
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You got the hardest part done and it ain't even November yet - YEE HAW! Looking really good as per usual.
QUESTION: What glue do you use on the cap strips? I tried doing mine with foam safe CA and it just does not hold- repaired loose ones with Titebond. How about you?
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You got the hardest part done and it ain't even November yet - YEE HAW! Looking really good as per usual.
QUESTION: What glue do you use on the cap strips? I tried doing mine with foam safe CA and it just does not hold- repaired loose ones with Titebond. How about you?
Thanks Dennis.
I use PICA-Gluit for wood. Not the same stuff I used for gluing on the TE. I have never had any capstrips pop loose. When I get home, I'll include a picture. Not that it will do any good because the stuff isn't made anymore.
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I finished the flaps tonight. I made up my flap clips from 1/8 Lite-Ply and 1/8 aluminum tubing. I fit the flaps to the TE of the wing using some 3/4 wide 1/32 ply pieces. This aligns the hinge slots. Then I aligned the flap horn from the centerline of the fuselage. I then marked the location of the flap clips. Then glued in the clips, sanded etc. The flaps came out right on the target weight of 55 grams.
The wing and flaps are very near ready to cover. Just some very minor detail sanding. Between the wing anf flaps I'm projecting that I'm 8 grams over my budget. I'll have to make that up on the fuselage.
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Everyone,
This is the assortment of glues that I use to build my stunters.
I use Bob Smith CA and epoxy. PICA-Gluit and MGS L-285 laminating epoxy (hardener not shown). The pink PICA is what I use for wood, and the green PICA is what I used to glue on the TE to the foam. I use Pacer 560 to glue in my Klett hinges and also to attach the canopy. I have 5, 15, 30 minute, and 2 hour Bob Smith epoxy. I have other glues in my arsenal, but I typically don't use them on my stunters. Ambroid, Sigment, Welder's, and JB Weld.
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OK, what the heck. Here is all the glue that I have.
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Today I built the stab.
The TE is made up from 2 pieces of 3/16 x 1/2 wide 7# balsa and 1/32 balsa for the hinge slots. The TE is made up of the same only 3/8 wide. After laminating the 3 pieces I glued on the inner edge .007 carbon fiber using medium CA. It came in a sheet about 4 feet long by 2 inches. 1 side looks like it has a very thin layer of silkspan. This is the side that goes against the LE and TE. The center sheeting 1/16 7# balsa. The ribs and diagonals are 6# 3/32 with 2 1/8 holes punched in with a brass tube. These were glued in using then CA. The tips are capped with 1/32 basswood to give them some durability.
It is all sanded the LE and TE have been rounded. Some detail sanding that is left to do. It weighs 32 grams. 13 grams below budget! With the wing and flaps 8 grams over budget that means I'm 5 grams below budget.....I'll that it. :)
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Today the elevators, fin, and rudder were assembled.
The elevators are made up of 2 pieces of 3/32 6# balsa and 1 piece of 1/32 balsa to form the hinge slots. Like the flaps, they were glued with epoxy - MGS L-285. I remembered to make the 1/32 true cross-grain. Same thing on the flaps. I think it really makes a difference. Also notice that the 1/32 balsa is cut away leaving a nice center line to groove the elevator LE for the control horn.
The fin was made form 3/16 6.7# balsa and 1/32 10# balsa skins. The frame was assembled with medium CA and the skins were attached with PICA-Gluit.
The rudder was made from 2 pieces of 1/8 6# balsa and a piece of 1/32 balsa to form the hinge slot. These pieces were assembled with some 2 hour epoxy I had. The grain of all 3 pieces were running different directions. No pictures.
All have been weighted down and drying till tomorrow.
Maybe I'll form the LG tonight.
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Made up the landing gear from 1/8 music wire.
I'm using MPI wheels. I found the best tool for drilling out the hubs for 1/8 music wire. It's a step drill I got from Harbor Freight. I drill the hub using a 1/8 drill bit. I drill just a little on one side, flip the wheel over and finish drilling all the way through. Because its plastic, it has a tendancy to "bounce back" after drilling so the fit is pretty tight on the music wire. I then drill out the hub with the first drill and chamfer the hole with the sloped step to the next size. I do this on both sides of the wheel.
I also bend my landing gear with just a degree or 2 of Toe-In. This keeps the model rolling true. I put just a slight amount of "right turn" on the nose wheel.
I also grind a flat on each axle for the collar set screw. I don't go all the way to the edge of the axle to keep the collar from falling off if it does get loose.
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The frame was assembled with medium CA and the skins were attached with PICA-Gluit.
What type of glue is that PICA-Gluit, water soluable ?
What do you like about it ? How does it compare to Titebond ?
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What type of glue is that PICA-Gluit, water soluable ?
What do you like about it ? How does it compare to Titebond ?
Alan,
It's an aliphatic type glue. It's adhesion properties is excellent. Clean up with water. Sands to a feathered edge, not rubbery. I like it a lot better than Titebond. Titebond seems like a heavy glue.
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Alan,
It's an aliphatic type glue. It's adhesion properties is excellent. Clean up with water. Sands to a feathered edge, not rubbery. I like it a lot better than Titebond. Titebond seems like a heavy glue.
I been using Titebond for a long time, and happy with it. When you say it seems heavy, in what respect, weight or consistency ?
In some applications I thin the Titebond with 10~20% water.
Sounds like I might have to try this PICA stuff. Where do you get it ?
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I been using Titebond for a long time, and happy with it. When you say it seems heavy, in what respect, weight or consistency ?
In some applications I thin the Titebond with 10~20% water.
Sounds like I might have to try this PICA stuff. Where do you get it ?
Heavy even after thinning with water. Just MHO. PICA is no longer available. Though I'm sure there is something just like out there, I'm just not aware of it.
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Tonight I planed and sanded in the taper on the elevators using the "Perret Bar" method. I also finished roughing out the fin and rudder.
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Time for an update. Haven't been feeling too well the last couple of days but still made some progress.
I started the fuselage and made up the front end. I used 2 pieces of 3/8 x 3/8 basswood to get the 3/8 x 3/4 "motor mounts" and nose gear mounting block. I glued some 3/8 sheet together to get the required 3/4 thickness. The vertical spacers are 1/8 5-ply x 3/4. The "firewall" is 2 pieces of 3/32 5-ply glued together with the grain crosswise to get my 3/16 firewall. Worked very well. I notched the basswood for the firewall at the 2 degree angle for right thrust. The firewall will be epoxied in after the fuselage is skinned with 1/64 ply. The next few days I'll finish up the fuselage framework and then sand both sides down so when skinned the thickness will be 3/4. There is no AMA rule on how thick a profile stunter has to be.
I'll finish up the elevators too very soon.
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On an electric profile, it would be easy enough to center the motor/spinner on the fuse (top view).
Just wondering why you choose to stay with offset to outside as if it was a glow engine.
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On an electric profile, it would be easy enough to center the motor/spinner on the fuse (top view).
Just wondering why you choose to stay with offset to outside as if it was a glow engine.
I personally don't like a lot of spinner "overhang" on the inboard side. Plus it is traditional to have the thrustline on the outboard side on most profiles. Bottom line......personal preference.
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Tonight I finished up the elevators. I made the horn clips just like the flap clips. I located them the same way as the flaps. I included a picture of the right elevator root cap made from 2 pieces of 1/16 basswood. The small notch is for the Rabe horn. The weight of the stab, elevators, and elevator control horn is about 3 grams under budget. So far so good.
I started to assemble the fuselage tonight. Tomorrow I'll finish building it and then sand it down and glue on the first (outboard) 1/64 ply skin.
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Tonight I finished up the elevators. I made the horn clips just like the flap clips. I located them the same way as the flaps. I included a picture of the right elevator root cap made from 2 pieces of 1/16 basswood. The small notch is for the Rabe horn.
Have you used the Rabe Rudder on any of your previous electrics, and to good effect ?
I was thinking the advantages of the pusher props would take care of the line tension issues the Rabe Rudder addresses.
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Have you used the Rabe Rudder on any of your previous electrics, and to good effect ?
I was thinking the advantages of the pusher props would take care of the line tension issues the Rabe Rudder addresses.
Allan,
Yeah, I used them on all my airplanes. Even with the pusher props I like the feel the Rabe rudder gives on those hard outside corners.
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Tonight I finished building the core of the fuselage. I used 1/8 6# balsa for the truss work. I wanted to keep the width of the fuselage at 3/4 inches wide. So I had to sand down the total width by 1/32 to accommodate the 1/64 sides. I made up a jig from 2 pieces of "U" channel 1/8 x 7/8h x 1w. I shimmed up the fuselage using some 1/8 and 1/32 balsa that I had. I made up a sanding tool by using some clear duct tape where the tool would rest on the U channel and taped some 80 grit sandpaper in between. At first I started with just the 1/8 shims to get the core even at 3/4. The I added 1/32 and sanded till the sanding tool quit cutting wood. Worked like a champ. 1/32 less than 3/4 and nice and straight.
I then have the outboard 1/64 ply skin glued on and weighted down overnight. I used my MGS L-285 epoxy for this and used an acid brush and a small cheap touch up brush to put the epoxy on the truss.
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This morning I trimmed and cut out the outboard 1/64 ply and glued on the inboard 1/64 using epoxy.
I then made up my 2 landing gear spats. I was feeling frisky this morning so I decided to laminate them instead of using 1 piece of 1/16 ply. They are made up from 2 pieces of 1/64 ply (I love the stuff!), 1/32 ply, and 1/32 balsa. The 1/32 ply is located where the attach brackets will be.
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The fuselage is pretty much done with the exception of the canopy. I'm running a poll on it's location on the main forum. Please vote for your preference.
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The LG spats are done and came out to 9 grams for both of them. Plenty stiff enough.
I trimmed the inboard 1/64 ply, cut out for the wing and stab. I used a paper template that I cover with several layers of packing tape on both side. As usual the cutout was a little big. I lined the cutout with 1/32 balsa and closed the gap with several layers of 1/32 as needed. Now it fits just right.
I then tapered the aft end to flair into the rudder. I added the tail skid mounting screw holder too. It is a piece of yellow Ny-Rod epoxied into the fuselage. I put in a 2-56 screw that will serve 2 purposes. The first will be a tail skid, and the second it will be the retainer for the rudder hinge pin.
Tomorrow the canopy and the fuselage will be done. As it sits, it is 2 ounces below my budget! Yeah!
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I dry assembled the model. Here is a picture of a fwd. mid, and aft canopy.
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Really nice job Crist! My apologies if I missed it, but what is the weight of the fuselage with the 1/64" plywood skins? That looks like a really bulletproof way to go.
Jason
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Really nice job Crist! My apologies if I missed it, but what is the weight of the fuselage with the 1/64" plywood skins? That looks like a really bulletproof way to go.
Jason
Jason,
The fuselage with the canopy weighs 6.3 ounces. And yes, it is bulletproof. y1
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Just great. I like how you tweaked the wing fit, I usually do something like that but only as a FIX! With the bird assembled the forward canopy location really stands out as the best.
Sheesz, you got time to build ANOTHER new bird!
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Just great. I like how you tweaked the wing fit, I usually do something like that but only as a FIX! With the bird assembled the forward canopy location really stands out as the best.
Sheesz, you got time to build ANOTHER new bird!
Thanks Dennis. I think I'll sleep on the canopy location. I'm thinking of the mid location. The aft location is out. I'm kicking around the fwd location, but with a different shaped canopy. Trying to make the canopy more like Talon, All American Eagle, Novi, Formula S like. We'll see.
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Thanks Dennis. I think I'll sleep on the canopy location. I'm thinking of the mid location. The aft location is out. I'm kicking around the fwd location, but with a different shaped canopy. Trying to make the canopy more like Talon, All American Eagle, Novi, Formula S like. We'll see.
Along those lines you might also consider a long low dorsal fin or ridgeback - even all the way to the canopy.
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I realize the canopy weighs 0 but could canopy location help CG?
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I realize the canopy weighs 0 but could canopy location help CG?
Depends on how many pies the Pilot ate. LL~
TTFN
John
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I realize the canopy weighs 0 but could canopy location help CG?
John,
I think my canopy weighs like 6 grams. While every little bit does have an effect on CG, this one will be placed for looks and the shift in CG will not be considered.
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The fuselage is done. I cut out for the motor clearance, rounded the edges, slotted for the battery straps, and finished shaping the fuselage nose area. As it sits with the canopy and motor mount is 6 ounces. 2 ounces under budget. I think everything is now built. Some detail sanding the entire model and then on to the Monokote.
To make the slots I laid out the holes about 5/32 apart and on each end of the slot. Then I used my 1/16 drill, then larger and larger then finally a 5/32 drill. I "connected" the holes with a pointed hacksaw blade, then used carborundum file to shape the slot. Took about 20 minutes.
Oh, I decided on almost the forward most canopy location. Probably very close to picture # 3 from above.
25 days from when I started it's almost ready for finishing.
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Just a picture of the motor and the motor mount. The mount will be glued in after the carbon veil has been applied.
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Update:
All the detail sanding is finished. The plane is ready to cover/finish. I started 1 month ago. Overall I'm about 1 1/2 ounces below my budgeted weight. My guess when I'm all done, I'll hit my weight. Here are the wieghts ready to cover or finish. All weights in grams.
Wing with weight box cover and screw - 267
LT Flap - 25
RT Flap - 30
Stab - 33
LT Ele - 16
RT Ele - 16
Fuse with canopy and motor mount - 169
Fin - 9
Rudder - 3
Spats - 9
Nose Wheel with clip and screws - 16
Main Gear with clips and screws - 50
Flap Horn - 8
Ele Horn - 7
Flap Pushrod - 10
Ele Pushrod - 15
Total - 683 24.05 ounces
On to cutting Monokote for the wing and stab.
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Tonight I cut out the Monokote pieces and covered the stab in white. Tomorrow I'll do the wing. Thursday the trim and letters. Friday or at least this weekend I start doping the fuselage, fin, and rudder.
No pictures tonight.
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Did Jan take you Trick or Treating LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~
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Did Jan take you Trick or Treating LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~
Nope, I stayed home and help pass out the candy and see all the costumes.
How about Helga?
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She bought a ton of candy, then turned all the lights off so the kids wouldn't come to the door and sat and ate all the candy LL~ LL~ uh oh mw~ mw~ mw~
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That's funny Lee. I did the same thing! LL~ LL~ LL~
OK, tonights progress saw the wing get covered in white. Turned out real good. Tomorrow is the trim and letters. It'll take a couple of days to do that.
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I put on the chrome LE and the tip stripes on both the wing and stab.
I use the "Windex" method. I put center tick marks on the chrome Monokote ends and tick marks on the center of the LE. I spray the area with Windex and peel off the Monokote backing and spray the backside of the Monokote too. I position it in place on the wing LE and rub out the excess Windex with a soft clean rag. I them align the tick marks and rub down the chrome Monokote a few times getting as much Windex and air bubbles out as I can. After it sets about an hour, I use my Top Flite sealing iron set on 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 and gently run it down the edges to flatten them down where the stripes will go. Man, that chrome is shiny!
I put on the stripes pretty much the same way. After aligning them on the wing I use the sealing iron on the LE and TE to get it to lay down nice and good, then I trim the stripe. I do the bottom first and over lap the LE and TE with the top piece. I'll let them "dry" overnight and then carefully run the sealing iron over them set at 1 3/4.
On to the numbers and letters tomorrow.
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Crist.
That's a great clean looking hi-vis trim scheme, simple and neet. Nice. Keep the pictures coming please.
Regards.
Dave.
ama 41041
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Dave,
As you wish!
Letters and numbers applied.
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Lee,
I have plenty of dope. It's the thinner I need. Dupont 3608S.
Scorpion's have gone up a lot in price and the Cobra motors have much larger ball bearings.
Picked up a gallon of the 3608S locally for $28.
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Battery compartment modification!
Laying out the color scheme I realized that the motor cutout and the battery straps will "interfer" with the color scheme. Hmm.... So I decided to make a modification the the nose area. I cut slots for the battery straps down into the battery compartment. Then cutout the 1/64 plywood from the entire battery compartment. I then glued on another piece of 1/64 ply to the nose area after tapering the aft edge. I then glued in strips of basswood in the battery compartment for the battery to rest on when held tight by the straps. The whole modification cost me 10 grams. It was worth hiding the battery straps. Oh, it also added some stiffness to the nose.
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Managed to apply the CF to the fuselage, fin, rudder, and canopy today. They are drying right now. Pictures later tonight.
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Crist
Do you use the 0.2 oz. tissue stuff from CST?
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Dan,
Yes, it's 2/10 CF veil (tissue). I don't remember where I got it but probably from CST or ACP.
I brushed on 2 coats of 75/25 SIG nitrate to the bare wood. I only use SIG dope. Lightly sanded and applied the 2/10 carbon fiber veil. Some sanding then another coat of nitrate. Let dry then some agressive sanding. Then 1 more coat of nitrate. I'll let it dry over night then sand it and then it's on to assembling the airplane. Total weight of doping so far is 14 grams.
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Crist
You do good work ! Looking good. :)
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Glued in the wing, stab, and fin tonight. On to the fillets!
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740kv? I take it you're running a 4s pack?
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740kv? I take it you're running a 4s pack?
760Kv and a 5S battery. See reply #7.
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Well, my Aeropoxy Light went bad after about 6 years. I've ordered another qt of the stuff from PTM&W. About $37 for 1.5 qt size delivered.
http://store.ptm-w.com/c-2-aeropoxy.aspx
AEROPOXY LIGHT LIGHTWEIGHT FILLER: Qt. Kit
SKU:WAPLTE - Net Wt: 1.5 lb. Net Vol: 1.47 Qt.
Price: $28.90
Quantity:
It'll be a few days till I can get back to the model. I'll look for some misc. things to do on it.
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Tonight I glued in the firewall using 30 minute epoxy. I made up and glued in the rudder control horn. Set my pushrods to length and polished up the aluminum ferrules using "Mother's" aluminum polish. They look like chrome! I made up and covered the flap pushrod cover with 2/10 CF veil. It is ready to glue on after the fillets go on the wing. No pictures tonight.
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Glued in the wing, stab, and fin tonight. On to the fillets!
I never glue the wing and stab at the same time. I feel much more comfortable from an alignment standpoint that it will be more accurate by first gluing wing into the fuse, and then later gluing the stab. So I am just curious about how you handle the alignment issue when gluing both at the same time.
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I never glue the wing and stab at the same time. I feel much more comfortable from an alignment standpoint that it will be more accurate by first gluing wing into the fuse, and then later gluing the stab. So I am just curious about how you handle the alignment issue when gluing both at the same time.
I glue the wing in first, then I glue the stab in. Not done at the same time.
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Isn't that the way it is supposed to be done??? I don't think I have ever built/assembled a plane without the wing going in first. Then align the stab with the wing.
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Isn't that the way it is supposed to be done??? I don't think I have ever built/assembled a plane without the wing going in first. Then align the stab with the wing.
Yep doc, that's how I've always did it.
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Tonight I made up the ESC mount. It is made from 1/16 ply. It is 1 3/4 long and 1 high.
I also prepped the ESC and timer. I also updated the software and programmed it.
Hurry up Aeropoxy!
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Today I finished up my handle. It is a Ted Fancher small Precision Pro handle.
I also "cored" my elevators to save some tail weight. I saved 13 grams.
Waiting on the Aeropoxy Light.
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What a neat idea of mounting the timer to the ESC. And talk about shaving wire weight, I like the direct plug connections on the ESC for the motor. I'll bet you lost about 1/2 oz. with the wire elimination on the ESC.
Bob
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What a neat idea of mounting the timer to the ESC. And talk about shaving wire weight, I like the direct plug connections on the ESC for the motor. I'll bet you lost about 1/2 oz. with the wire elimination on the ESC.
Bob
Bob,
I use 3M SJ4570 Dual Lock to hold the timer to the ESC. It sure beats velcro. There is no "rocking" with Dual Lock. Here is a link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0045A182K/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
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Still no Aeropoxy! I'll call them tomorrow. In the meantime I made up my master to make my decals. They will be printed on clear decal paper with a color laser printer then coated with Testor's decal bonder.
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Been a while since I stopped by here, lookin' good Christ! y1
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I called PTM&W (Aeropoxy) Friday. The gal who does web orders was out sick all last week and got my order shipped today. Maybe, by some chance, I'll have it Friday, maybe.
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Hi Crist,
I buy Aero Poxy and SuperFil from Wicks. Same stuff, same price and a lot closer than California. I like the SuperFil the best.
Nothing against California guys. It's just that central Illinois is a lot closer to Iowa. Delivery might be a little quicker.
Larry
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Hi Crist,
I buy Aero Poxy and SuperFil from Wicks. Same stuff, same price and a lot closer than California. I like the SuperFil the best.
Nothing against California guys. It's just that central Illinois is a lot closer to Iowa. Delivery might be a little quicker.
Larry
I hear ya Larry. I thought when I checked, Wicks was more expensive.
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I got the decals made up today. All ready to cut out and apply!
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Hi Crist,
OK, Wicks is less than $2 more, but it may have been worth it for the two or three weeks you have been waiting. y1 y1 y1 ;D
Nice build thread and a really good looking profile. Hope it flies as well as the Thundervolt. Enjoyed helping you trim it at FCM.
Later;
Larry
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Crist,
Where do you get your decals from ? I am looking for some very similar to what you have there. Are they self adhesive and can I specify a different group insignia?
Bob
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Hi Crist,
OK, Wicks is less than $2 more, but it may have been worth it for the two or three weeks you have been waiting. y1 y1 y1 ;D
Nice build thread and a really good looking profile. Hope it flies as well as the Thundervolt. Enjoyed helping you trim it at FCM.
Later;
Larry
Don't rub it in Larry! :)
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Crist,
Where do you get your decals from ? I am looking for some very similar to what you have there. Are they self adhesive and can I specify a different group insignia?
Bob
Bob,
I made them up my self, at least the master. I searched the web and either copied or made up each part. Then printed the master out on a laser printer. Then went to Office Max and they ran the decal paper through their laser copier (52 cents!). Then I overcoat the decal with Testors Decal Bonder. These are water slide decals. I use Bare-Metal decal paper.
http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Detailing_and_Weathering/BMF00000123/product.php?micr=1483
http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Detailing_and_Weathering/BMF00000125/product.php?micr=1483
http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/TES00009200/product.php?s=3&t=1&u=5
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Crist,
One last question then I will leave you alone(for a little while). You are using water slide decals on iron on covering with no problems with tearing? I thought the water slide decals would tear as the covering shrunk or expanded in the sun over several flying seasons.
Thanks, Bob
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Crist,
One last question then I will leave you alone(for a little while). You are using water slide decals on iron on covering with no problems with tearing? I thought the water slide decals would tear as the covering shrunk or expanded in the sun over several flying seasons.
Thanks, Bob
The decals will only be used on the painted fuselage, fin, and rudder. If I were to use decals (stickers) on the Monokote, they would be peel-n-stick vinyl type like most "decals" nowadays.
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Don't rub it in Larry! :)
Sorry Crist,
The Devil made me do it. >:D :) Only because I have done similar numerous times.
Hope you get the stuff soon, so we can see how this bird will end up.
Larry
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The Aeropoxy is here. On to the fillets.
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OK, here is how I do fillets. With Aeropoxy Light, you have to stir it up real well. I made up a wire whip and put it in my cordless drill and stirred away. The hardener has a "syrup" on the bottom that has to get stirred in thoroughly or you'll get a rubbery fillet that won't sand. I've included some pictures of the stuff all stirred up. The hardener will look like melted milk chocolate when stirred properly.
I use a 10X multiplier on my gram scale so I can measure out a 1/10 of a gram accuracy. I put the mixing cup on the adapter and turn on the scale. When it reads 0 then its ready to go. For the fin and each side of the stab, I used 4 grams of the filler and 2 grams of the hardener. I know this is too much but when you buy it by the 1 1/2 pounds, you can be a bit wasteful!. I then mix it up real well and using a craft stick I trowel it into the corner pushing the Aeropoxy into the crevices. When that's done I use my fillet tool. I glued on a 1/4 inch ball bearing to a 3/16 dowel. I use the ball bearing because it gives a constant radius no matter what angle it is against the side. Once I form the fillet with the tool, I scrape off the excess with a single edge razor blade. I then fold a paper towel into quarters and soak the towel with 91% rubbing alcohol. I then clean up the sides/stab/fin etc by running the edge of the paper towel very close to the fillet. Once cleaned off I let the fillet sit for about 45 to 60 minutes to set up some. I then dip my finger into the alcohol and run back and forth along the fillet very gently. This action will smooth the fillet and feather the edges very nicely. Again the fillet get the wetted paper towel to clean up all around the fillet. I then let harden over night. I'll sand them when they are all done.
Tonight I got the fin and stab done. I also did the first application on the canopy too.
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How much time does this stuff give you before it is unworkable?
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How much time does this stuff give you before it is unworkable?
A good hour or so.
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Down to the outboard side and the pushrod cover is all that is left to do.
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Very, Very nice work, Crist!
I remember up the thread somewhere a really nice looking red/white/blue scheme.
What will you be using for a blocking coat on the fuselage and other wood parts??
Thanks!
Bill
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Very, Very nice work, Crist!
I remember up the thread somewhere a really nice looking red/white/blue scheme.
What will you be using for a blocking coat on the fuselage and other wood parts??
Thanks!
Bill
Thanks Bill
I'll be using SIG white with a little bit of black added for a light grey coat. Stay tuned.
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I thought the water slide decals would tear as the covering shrunk or expanded in the sun over several flying seasons.
That's because different colors absorb heat from the sun differently. You have to match the decal color exactly to the covering color.
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Tonight I finished putting on the fillets. Tomorrow I'll sand them and then on to the finish!
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Bob,
I use 3M SJ4570 Dual Lock to hold the timer to the ESC. It sure beats velcro. There is no "rocking" with Dual Lock. Here is a link:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Profile-Reclosable-Fastener/dp/B0045A182K
Crist,
I really liked the info on the Dual Lock and your method of joining the ESC and Timer. I ordered some tonight. thanks for the link. y1 #^
Randy Cuberly
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Crist,
I really liked the info on the Dual Lock and your method of joining the ESC and Timer. I ordered some tonight. thanks for the link. y1 #^
Randy Cuberly
You'll really like the stuff!
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Crist,
I too have been using 3M Dual Lock for various component mountings. However, I found that when I used it to help secure batteries to a mounting plate on the model, it required an excessive amount of pressure to get it to lock (especially when it is cold). I ended up using a strip of Dual Lock on the battery but a strip of "heavy duty" fuzzy side "Velcro" (came from China) on the battery mounting plate. That works fine for securing my batteries (there are also regular securing straps to hold these batteries).
Just my 2 cents. ;D
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That's because different colors absorb heat from the sun differently. You have to match the decal color exactly to the covering color.
LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~.
Howard, sometimes your humor is so subtle it even gets past me on the first look...
Carried to extreme would this result in an invisible airplane?
Randy C.
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Crist,
I too have been using 3M Dual Lock for various component mountings. However, I found that when I used it to help secure batteries to a mounting plate on the model, it required an excessive amount of pressure to get it to lock (especially when it is cold). I ended up using a strip of Dual Lock on the battery but a strip of "heavy duty" fuzzy side "Velcro" (came from China) on the battery mounting plate. That works fine for securing my batteries (there are also regular securing straps to hold these batteries).
Just my 2 cents. ;D
John,
I noticed that Dual Lock works with the fuzzy side of velcro too. It's rather persistant!
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Today I sanded the fillets and applied 2 coats of slightly thinned nitrate dope using a small touch-up brush. After drying, I brushed on the first of the filler coats. I used nitrate dope, thinner, and some baby powder. I tried zinc stearate before but didn't like it. I'll let it dry overnight and tomorrow I'l sand it off and apply a second coat.
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Sounds like it will be RTF by Christmas. Ho ho ho.
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Sounds like it will be RTF by Christmas. Ho ho ho.
Dennis,
It would be nice so the dope stink is gone for the holidays!
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A good hour or so.
Or in AZ in the summer time about 15 minutes! ;D
Randy Cuberly
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Dennis,
It would be nice so the dope stink is gone for the holidays!
Hey, I like the smell of dope. Butyrate especially. n~
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I sanded the filler coat and then brushed on 3 coats of SIG Lite-Coat clear. Butyrate from now on and wet sanding too. Total weight added so far is 24 grams.
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I wet sanded the 3 brushed on clear coats and sprayed on the first coat of gray. I'm using my airbrush for the spraying. I can control the spray much better especially around the motor and battery bays. Once dry, I'll start with the glazing putty. It looks a lot better in the pictures than in person as usual. :)
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First application of the glazing putty. Bondo type.
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After sanding off the glazing compound and shooting another coat of gray and sanding that, I shot the white today. 3 coats with the airbrush. I'll weigh it tonight and report back. From bare balsa through the gray blocking coats total weight added is 32 grams.
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I weighed the plane. From bare balsa through the white coats added 44 grams.
From bare balsa through the filler coats added 18 grams
3 coats of brushed clear added 6 more grams for a total of 24 grams
3 coats of gray and glazing compound added 8 grams for a total of 32 grams
3 coats of white added 12 grams for a total of 44 grams
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Tonight I lightly sanded the white and shot 1 coat of clear to seal the white. On to the red trim.
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The red trim is on. I have to trim the flash but it looks good. On to the blue!
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The blue is done except I have to trim the flash. I did my usual with the canopy. I also started on the decals. Whatta think so far?
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I've been following with interest. I refer to this and you previous build log for guidance. Beautiful plane and I, for one, appreciate you taking the time to post your procedures.
Thanks,
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Fantastic!
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Thanks Zuriel and Dennis. Getting close to having the painting finished. Just in time to clear out the smell for Christmas visitors.
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Really looking good Crist. Great job.
Larry
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The blue is done except I have to trim the flash. I did my usual with the canopy. I also started on the decals. Whatta think so far?
I think it looks like a winner!
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Thanks guys.
Tonight I shot the final coats of clear. I'll let it sit over the holidays for the dope to firm up and finish gassing off. The total weight of the finish from bare balsa to final coats of clear is 61 grams. Includes the rudder and LG spats.
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Very impressive Crist. Very impressive.
Larry
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Thanks, Crist. Very informative.
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I think it looks great, Crist, and I hope it flies as good as it looks!
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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A very impressive looking plane. I noticed that your flaps and elevators are yet attached to the plane. How do you attach these surfaces to the hinges without marring your wonderful finish?
Thanks in advance.
Ron Hook
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Ron,
I just noticed your question. I use Klett hinges which are 2 piece. I glue 1 half into the control surface, then when dry I use a piece of .032 music wire as a long hinge pin to locate the stab or wing half of the hinge set. then I glue those in with the music wire still in place. When dry I remove the .032 music wire then use .025 music wire for the actual hinge pin. It run the entire length of the control surface and is held in place by a 1/32 eyelet inbedded in the TE of the stab or wing with a small 90 degree bend. when done I'll include pics.
Today I wet sanded, rubbed out, and waxed the fuselage and rudder. Hinged the rudder, and attached the landing gear. Mounted the motor and ESC.
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so Crist on you build log. How much does the log weigh? LL~ I could not resist.
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Funny Bobby, real funny! :)
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so Crist on you build log. How much does the log weigh? LL~ I could not resist.
As us fans of Crist's Build Logs can attest, his logs are definitiely not hollow logs. They are packed with great information, new ideas and LOTZ of pictures. While the resulting models are usually light, the logs are definitely HEAVY..! 8)
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He flies aginst me all season long so I like it when he builds logs. f~
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Progress is coming along. I cut down a 13x5.5WEP to 12 inches and balanced and mounted the prop.
When sanding the taper into the left flap, I must of had the flap sitting on one of the 1/32 plywood pieces that I glue to the 3/8 rod to keep it from rolling and ended up with a off center hinge line near the tip. So I made a new flap and the second one is good. Ready to cover both the elevators and the flaps.
I also dyed, using RIT dye, the battery straps from yellow to black. I get my straps from Tanic Packs and they are the 10" size.
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Just about done. I have to clean it up a little , then seal the hingelines. A coat of wax on the Monokote and it'll be ready for the circle.
The weight came out to 51 3/4 oz with 1 oz of tip weight. Balances at 19%.
Looking forward to the ICE-O-LATED contest in St. Louis in a 2 weeks.
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That looks very nice Crist, anxious to get the flight report.
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Super nice ! Hey Crist, how about a pic or 2 of how you go about sealing the hinge lines ? :)
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Very,Very nice Crist,I like the shot with the plans in the backround.Maybe we can get a shot of a beautiful Muncie sunset in the backround later this summer ;D ;D Well Done!!!! Trax
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Dan,
Here are a few pics of how I seal the hinge line. I use 3M Multi Task tape. I clean the hinge line then I roll out the tape to the proper length. Then I trim off the corners by 1/8 inch. Then I place the tape on the elevator and then rub it down while holding it off the stabilizer. I then use a craft stick to get the tape down into the hinge slot. Then I roll the tape over the stab TE. rubbing it down as I go.
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All done!
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Thanks Crist. Very nicely done Sir ! :)
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FANTASTIC!!!
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Thanks guys!
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You left gaps in the tape at the hinges.
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You left gaps in the tape at the hinges.
I never tape over the hinge barrels.
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I flew the Thundervolt P today for the first time. I flew out 8 batteries. The first was 5 1 minute trim flights. The second was 3 1 1/2 minute trim flights. The next 3 were full patterns. The 6th was 2 2 1/2 minute trim flights and the last 2 were full patterns.
The plane is flying very well right now. I'll just concentrate on putting some more full patterns on it. Maybe a lead out change here and there but that would be about it.
I'm using about 1850 to 1900mah for the full flights with 5.25 second laps. I'll slow it down to about 5.3 to 5.4 second laps. It has plenty of line tension. I'm launching at 9625 rpm and my on time is 5 minutes and 15 seconds. I'll increase the on time to 5 minutes and 30 seconds next time out. I'l using a APCE 13 x 5.5 WEP cut down to 12 inches and my lines are .015 and 63 feet eye to eye long. All-in-all a very good day of flying. A very comfortable airplane to fly.
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Thanks for the report Crist. Sounds good. Can only get better. :)
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CONGRATS on a great first day! I like that you are already at the point where you can just start cranking in some patterns.
We had more snow yesterday with wind & cold today. The flying season is off to a very slow start!
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Dennis, We had some snow yesterday. Today was a mostly sunny day with temps around 45 and light winds. The last 2 patterns were high quality ones too!
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Great news Crist. Now go show the judges how the pattern is supposed to look.
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Are you going to be flying that at Polk City? We need a break at least to see if the fuel is still good.
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Are you going to be flying that at Polk City? We need a break at least to see if the fuel is still good.
Yes, that's my plan at least. See you there.
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Bob,
I use 3M SJ4570 Dual Lock to hold the timer to the ESC. It sure beats velcro. There is no "rocking" with Dual Lock. Here is a link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0045A182K/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
Crist, thanks for steering us toward this 3M product. I just bought some and tried it and it is awesome. When you put the two parts together, they are locked, no movement at all, just like you stated. I can think of a lot of uses for this stuff, even outside of our toy airplane world. Thanks.
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You're welcome. I use it around the house too! Velcro nevermore.
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Just an update!
The Thundervolt P met its demise Sunday at the Pewaukee contest. It was a bit windy and on the second flight in the Overhead Eight, the wind shifted nearly 90 degrees and came off the tree line that was close to the circle. This cause a lot of turbulence at the top of the circle and the next thing I knew, I'm looking at the top of the airplane with the nose pointing slightly down and zero line tension. It was over a second or 2 later.
I was using my $25 Zippy Compact 5S 2450 35C batteries and this one got damaged. Sure beats killing a $100 battery! The Cobra 2826/12 survived with a shaft and bearing change. I salvaged the stab, elevators, flaps, and landing gear to be used on the next one.
It was a very good flying airplane that presented very well.
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Hate to hear this ... Crist, you will just have to build another one.
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Crist
Very sorry to hear about your loss. Rotten bad luck ! :'( On the positive side, I'll bet your replacement will be better. We can all hope to benefit from your nest new build thread. ;)
Dan
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Crist
Very sorry to hear about your loss. Rotten bad luck ! :'( On the positive side, I'll bet your replacement will be better. We can all hope to benefit from your nest new build thread. ;)
Dan
Dan,
Thanks. It'll be after we get settled in Texas, but stay tuned! It will be better, that's for sure.
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Dan,
Thanks. It'll be after we get settled in Texas, but stay tuned! It will be better, that's for sure.
I have no doubt it will be better. ! ;D