Hi Crist,
 I buy Aero Poxy and SuperFil from Wicks. Same stuff, same price and a lot closer than California. I like the SuperFil the best.
 Nothing against California guys. It's just that central Illinois is a lot closer to Iowa. Delivery might be a little quicker.

 Larry

I hear ya Larry.  I thought when I checked, Wicks was more expensive. 

Hi Crist,
 OK, Wicks is less than $2 more, but it may have been worth it for the two or three weeks you have been waiting.   
 Nice build thread and a really good looking profile. Hope it flies as well as the Thundervolt. Enjoyed helping you trim it at FCM.
 Later;
       Larry

Hi Crist,
 OK, Wicks is less than $2 more, but it may have been worth it for the two or three weeks you have been waiting.   
 Nice build thread and a really good looking profile. Hope it flies as well as the Thundervolt. Enjoyed helping you trim it at FCM.
 Later;
       Larry

Don't rub it in Larry!   

Crist,
 One last question then I will leave you alone(for a little while). You are using water slide decals on iron on covering with no problems with tearing? I thought the water slide decals would tear as the covering shrunk or expanded in the sun over several flying seasons.
  Thanks, Bob

Don't rub it in Larry!   

Sorry Crist,
 The Devil made me do it.     Only because I have done similar numerous times.
Hope you get the stuff soon, so we can see how this bird will end up.

 Larry

OK, here is how I do fillets.  With Aeropoxy Light, you have to stir it up real well.  I made up a wire whip and put it in my cordless drill and stirred away.  The hardener has a "syrup" on the bottom that has to get stirred in thoroughly or you'll get a rubbery fillet that won't sand.  I've included some pictures of the stuff all stirred up.  The hardener will look like melted milk chocolate when stirred properly.

I use a 10X multiplier on my gram scale so I can measure out a 1/10 of a gram accuracy.  I put the mixing cup on the adapter and turn on the scale.  When it reads 0 then its ready to go.  For the fin and each side of the stab, I used 4 grams of the filler and 2 grams of the hardener.  I know this is too much but when you buy it by the 1 1/2 pounds, you can be a bit wasteful!.  I then mix it up real well and using a craft stick I trowel it into the corner pushing the Aeropoxy into the crevices.  When that's done I use my fillet tool.  I glued on a 1/4 inch ball bearing to a 3/16 dowel.  I use the ball bearing because it gives a constant radius no matter what angle it is against the side.  Once I form the fillet with the tool, I scrape off the excess with a single edge razor blade.  I then fold a paper towel into quarters and soak the towel with 91% rubbing alcohol.  I then clean up the sides/stab/fin etc by running the edge of the paper towel very close to the fillet.  Once cleaned off I let the fillet sit for about 45 to 60 minutes to set up some.  I then dip my finger into the alcohol and run back and forth along the fillet very gently.  This action will smooth the fillet and feather the edges very nicely.  Again the fillet get the wetted paper towel to clean up all around the fillet.  I then let harden over night.  I'll sand them when they are all done.

Tonight I got the fin and stab done.  I also did the first application on the canopy too.

How much time does this stuff give you before it is unworkable?

A good hour or so.

Very, Very nice work, Crist! 

I remember up the thread somewhere a really nice looking red/white/blue scheme. 

What will you be using for a blocking coat on the fuselage and other wood parts??

Thanks!
Bill

I thought the water slide decals would tear as the covering shrunk or expanded in the sun over several flying seasons.

That's because different colors absorb heat from the sun differently.  You have to match the decal color exactly to the covering color. 

Bob,
I use 3M SJ4570 Dual Lock to hold the timer to the ESC.  It sure beats velcro.  There is no "rocking" with Dual Lock.   Here is a link:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Profile-Reclosable-Fastener/dp/B0045A182K

Crist,
I really liked the info on the Dual Lock and your method of joining the ESC and Timer.  I ordered some tonight. thanks for the link. 

Randy Cuberly

Crist,

I too have been using 3M Dual Lock for various component mountings. However, I found that when I used it to help secure batteries to a mounting plate on the model, it required an excessive amount of pressure to get it to lock (especially when it is cold). I ended up using a strip of Dual Lock on the battery but a strip of "heavy duty" fuzzy side "Velcro" (came from China) on the battery mounting plate. That works fine for securing my batteries (there are also regular securing straps to hold these batteries).

Just my 2 cents.  

Crist,

I too have been using 3M Dual Lock for various component mountings. However, I found that when I used it to help secure batteries to a mounting plate on the model, it required an excessive amount of pressure to get it to lock (especially when it is cold). I ended up using a strip of Dual Lock on the battery but a strip of "heavy duty" fuzzy side "Velcro" (came from China) on the battery mounting plate. That works fine for securing my batteries (there are also regular securing straps to hold these batteries).

Just my 2 cents.  

John,
I noticed that Dual Lock works with the fuzzy side of velcro too.  It's rather persistant!

Sounds like it will be RTF by Christmas.  Ho ho ho.

A good hour or so.

Or in AZ in the summer time about 15 minutes!   

Randy Cuberly

I sanded the filler coat and then brushed on 3 coats of SIG Lite-Coat clear.  Butyrate from now on and wet sanding too.  Total weight added so far is 24 grams.

First application of the glazing putty.  Bondo type.

I weighed the plane.  From bare balsa through the white coats added 44 grams. 

From bare balsa through the filler coats added 18 grams
3 coats of brushed clear added 6 more grams  for a total of 24 grams
3 coats of gray and glazing compound added 8 grams for a total of 32 grams
3 coats of white added 12 grams for a total of 44 grams

The red trim is on.  I have to trim the flash but it looks good.  On to the blue!

I've been following with interest.  I refer to this and you previous build log for guidance.  Beautiful plane and I, for one, appreciate you taking the time to post your procedures. 

Thanks,

Thanks Zuriel and Dennis.  Getting close to having the painting finished.  Just in time to clear out the smell for Christmas visitors.

The blue is done except I have to trim the flash.  I did my usual with the canopy.  I also started on the decals.  Whatta think so far?

I think it looks like a winner!

Very impressive Crist. Very impressive.

 Larry

I think it looks great, Crist, and I hope it flies as good as it looks!

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Ron,
I just noticed your question.  I use Klett hinges which are 2 piece.  I glue 1 half into the control surface, then when dry I use a piece of .032 music wire as a long hinge pin to locate the stab or wing half of the hinge set.  then I glue those in with the music wire still in place.  When dry I remove the .032 music wire then use .025 music wire for the actual hinge pin.  It run the entire length of the control surface and is held in place by a 1/32 eyelet inbedded in the TE of the stab or wing with a small 90 degree bend.  when done I'll include pics.

Today I wet sanded, rubbed out, and waxed the fuselage and rudder.  Hinged the rudder, and attached the landing gear.  Mounted the motor and ESC.

Funny Bobby, real funny!