Before I soak the skins I draw a centerline down the center of the middle piece.  This is used to line up the skin on the LE buck.  Then I soak the skin in HOT water only.  I leave it in the tub of hot water for at least 45 minutes.  I rub off the excess water and then go to my bench.  I lay down 2 strips of masking tape, sticky side up.  I place the skin on top of the masking tape with the centerline up.  I line up the LE buck with the centerline and tape the skin in place to the LE buck.  Then I do the same thing for the other end.

Time to wrap the whole thing up.  I use 4 inch wide bed sheets to wrap the skin.  Using ACE bandages leaves crosshatch marks in the wood.  I got this tip from Al Rabe.  I attach one end of the strip to the bench with a piece of wood and a spring clamp.  I stretch out the strip and start winding it over the skin.  It usually takes 2 strips per LE skin.  I then secure the strip with masking tape.  I don't wind real hard, just tight enough to keep the skin against the LE buck.  I then place the whole thing over a hot air register to "bake" dry for 2 days.  I have gone 1 day, but I feel the skin holds it shape better after 2 days.

Thanks Ty and Dennis.
 
Dennis, yes, it does incorporate a well rounded LE.  

Thanks for the tip on holding the strip/bandage while wrapping the mold buck alone. That is a very ingenious but simple solution.

Isn't the bottom sheeting and cap strips supposed to go in first?

Crist,

Looking real good man!  I used the lost foam method on my Geo and it worked like a champ.  Looks like you've got it down.

Jason 

Thanks Jason and Tom.

Been busy over Thanksgiving and didn't do a lot of work on the plane.  I didn't like the first set of ribs I made.  I felt they were too flimsy and so I made up another set using 8# wood instead of the first set at 5.9#.  While I was at it, I changed the spars from 1/4 square to 3/16 x 1/4.  Tonight I started the assembly in earnest.  Some of the ribs in the pictures aren't fully cut out because they are the LE ribs only and the portion aft of the spar will be cut away.

Tonight's progress consisted of gluing in the ribs, spars, and TE sheeting.  I also made up the shear webs.  So far going together very good.  I'm following Bob's tape step by step.  I just finished fitting the shear webs. I used 3/16 sheet for the first 2 bays and 1/8 sheet for the next 3.  This wing is going to turn out very strong! Enjoy the pics.

Looks like you fit your shear webs around the inside perimiter of the rib/spar locations? 

Yep.

Man, that's a lot of extra work. I cheat and just put them on the front or back of the spar. Must be a Minnesota thing.

I'm sure your way will work too.  With a wing mounted LG, especially when it is mounted an the aft side of the spar, putting the webs on the front or back could complicate things.  Also I'm following Bob's tape pretty close on this wing and that's the way he did it on the tape.

Tonight's work was getting the LE shells glued on and trimmed.  They worked out great.  The wing fits the jig perfectly both on their side and when I flip them over and put the left wing in the right jig and visa versa.  The wing now weighs 4 ounces as you see it.  I installed a shear web near the right wing tip to support the tip weight box.  The LE sheeting only goes over half the spar.  The cap strips will go over the aft portion.  The wing is all detailed glued and the next to go in will be the shear webs then on to the TE.

 What'ya usin' fer glue on that there T/E?

Nice job Chris:
I also make a lamination for hinge pockets, but I do a couple of things different.  I like to put the middle 1/32 layer crossgrain, its more visible that way and provides a centerline reference.   The other thing I like to do is make up a hinge line assy that is wide enough to cut both the wing TE and front of flap from.  That way the spacing between the hinges is automatic.  Might have a couple of pics if you want.

I sanded the TE even and installed the TE.  I used masking tape instead of using weights and pins as Bob used in the tape.  I used some Pica Gluit glue for the TE.  I really like this glue because the joint sands so well and smooth.  After I had the TE all taped in place I put my 5 foot ruler across the span of the TE supported by 1/32 plywood inserts where the hinges go.  I used 4 of them and the ruler to check for straightness of the hinge line.  Wow, almost perfect!  

I'll make up the bellcrank tonight so it'll be ready when i need to install it sometime this weekend.

Ah yes, one MORE reason free-weights excercise machines are better!

True modelers do work out with free weights!   

Crist,  that looks straighter than my straight edge.   I love these types of construction posts.   Thank you.   

Thanks John.  I post this stuff for the benefit for others.  At the very least, it shows one way of getting the job done.

Tip weight box was next.  I use 1/8 lite-ply, 1/8 birch ply, and 1/64 ply.  I cut out the 4 sides from the lite-ply and glue them to make a box.  Then I use 1/8 birch ply for the floor.  I trace the box onto the ply then drill the center 5/32 for a 4-40 blind nut.  I cut it out close then glue it to the box.  The using my disc sander I sand it down to size.  I then add 3/4 wide 1/64 ply 3/8 down on each side of the box.  I use the 1/64 ply to from a "well" for the lid.

After the box is installed into the wing and glued I sand the 1/64 ply to match the LE sheeting.  

On to the lid.  I use 1/8 birch ply, 1/4 balsa, 4-40 fender washer, and 7/32 aluminum tubing.  I carefully sand the 1/8 ply to fit into the well and mark which way is forward.  I then find the center and drill a 7/64 hole for a tight fit for the 4-40 screw.  I put the 4-40 fender washer under the screw and insert the screw into the lid.  I use thin CA to carefully glue the washer to the 1/8 ply.  I drill a 7/32 hole in the 1/4 balsa and chamfer the bottom of the hole to clear the fender washer.  I put the balsa on the lid and insert the aluminum tubing over the head of the 4-40 screw.  I then glue in the tubing.  I trim the tubing and glue the balsa to the lid.  Using my disc sander I sand the balsa to match the 1/8 ply.  Then I screw down the lid and sand the lid to match the wing.

I made up the 1/8 basswood pieces and mounted the bell crank.  Noticed that I used 2 short pieces of fuel tubing as a safety to keep the bell crank "centered" in the wing.

I also glued in the LG blocks.

On to the sheeting and cap strips.

Wow, it's been a week between posts.  I received my balsa order from National Balsa and it was very good wood.  It averaged right at 7# (right where I like it) and the grain was excellent.  

The center sheeting is drying, so pictures tomorrow.

In the meantime I made up my flap push rod.  I use carbon fiber tubes and fittings from Tom Morris.  The length is 6 1/2 inches long.  I will be using a R/H and a L/H fitting so adjustments can be made without disconnecting the push rod from the flap horn later on.  I could use 2 R/H fittings and just disconnect from the flap horn.  I just find it easier to do it this way.  When I'm talking about making adjustments, I'm referring to when I'm hooking up the controls during assembly.  Not after the model is built and finished.  I also use 2 pieces of 7/32 aluminum tubing cut to 3/4 long.  These are to keep the carbon fiber push rod from splitting during assembly and over its service life.  

The CF push rod is cut to 3 7/8 long.  I allow 1 1/4 for the fitting and ball link for a R/H link and 1 3/8 for the L/H fitting and ball link.  I then scratch both fittings with coarse sandpaper, sand the outer ends of the push rod.  I then clean the fittings, the inside of the aluminum tubing, the inside and outside of the CF push rod with acetone.  I then mix up some JB Weld and mix it throughly.  I use a toothpick to apply some JB Weld to the inside of the push rod and to the R/H fitting.  I insert the R/H fitting into the push rod and then add some JB Weld to the outside of the push rod and then slide the aluminum tubing down over the R/H fitting onto the push rod.  I then clean up the excess.  The L/H fitting is a little different due to the wrenching flats.  I glue on the aluminum tubing first then glue in the L/H fitting and then clean up the excess.  I make sure that the R/H fitting hasn't been pushed out some by pneumatic pressure from inserting the L/H fitting into the push rod.  I allow it to dry over night.  I know that the push rod is a little long but it sure beats making one a little short.  I like to have a lot of the threaded portion of the fitting into the ball link.  I'll grind off a little of each fitting to allow some adjustment both longer and shorter while still having a lot of the threads into the ball link.

I'm well aware of not running the fittings too deep and bottoming them into the ball link which will cause a failure of the ball link.  I'm sure you get the idea wanting some adjustment along with the security of sufficient threads into the ball link.

An extra fine drill bit will put a breather hole into the carbon tube with out losing strenth.   

A drop of ca in the hole and it will go away after it has done it's job.

 

The wing is done being built.  I sanded the TE round and finished sanding the sheeting and capstrips.  I cut out the push rod exit hole in the top sheeting.  All that's left is to terminate the LO and do the final detail sanding before covering.  The wing as shown with the flap push rod and horn, and weight box with screw weighs 8.7 ounces.  My budget allows 2 ounces for the Monokote which will put the wing at 1/4 oz over my budget.  This wing came out very straight and is very stiff.  I'm pleased on how well it turned out.

You'll notice that there is a lot of sheeting both at the tips and on the bottom of the wing.  The extra sheeting was added because of the color scheme for the Thundervolt will be similar to the USAF Thunderbirds air show team.  Because I'm using Monokote, I like to have the color changes occur on a wood surface.  All the extra wood probably cost me about 12 grams. 

On the lead out guide, another modeller sent me a great method.  Instead of using 1/8 o.d. eyelets, I'm using 6-32 x 1/4 socket head plastic screws.  I drilled a 1/16 hole down the length for the lead outs.  I then tapped the holes in the guide 6-32.  Works very well.

Enjoy the pictures.

On this type of leadout guide I've never understood what keeps the exit guide bushings from coming out of the holes during flight?

Wayne,
If using eyelets, it friction or a light press fit that holds them in.
The nylon screws thread into the tapped holes in the LO guide.  They are finger tight.  The plastic into the wood threads almost form a "locking" fit so the screws won't back out.

Sina,
Thank you.  It was good seeing you at the NATS.  Take care.

I added the flap horn clips to the flaps tonight and trimmed them to length.  I also trimmed the TE to the correct chord width.  Next up will be to taper them.  Pictures tomorrow.

Here is where I am in the build.  The stab, elevators, wing, flaps, and fin are completed. The rudder needs the edges rounded off.  All that is needed is to do some detail sanding prior to covering and to terminate the lead outs.  Overall the build is going well and I am 18 grams over my weight budget.  I'm hoping I can make that up when I build the fuselage.  Usually I now cover the wing, stab, flaps, and elevators with Monokote.  I apply all the trim and lettering and then move on to the fuselage.

Taking a few days off to enjoy Christmas with the family.  I'll pick this back up in a week.  Everybody have a Merry Christmas and a prosperous New Year.