Here is how I make up my bell cranks. I use 1/8 phenolic I get from the scrap bin at work. After I gut it out and sand it to shape, I epoxy glue 2 5/16 wide doublers. I use these to increase the bearing area and the extra thickness keeps the bell crank from tipping. I drill the hole for the 1/8 music wire post using a #30 drill. The extra few thousands allow a smooth and free fit on the shaft.
To "suspend" the bell crank, I use 2 4-40 fender washers and 2 1/8 eyelets for lines. I measure to center the bell crank and solder the first washer and eyelet in place. I insert the bell crank, then I use a small piece of 220 grit sandpaper with a 1/8 slotted hole in it to add a little space between the top washer and the bell crank. Once all soldered up, I clean the assembly using acetone. I squirt a little silicone spray on the pivot.
The lead outs are made from 2 1/2 long 1/16 annealed brass tubing, .027 lead out cable, .010 serving wire, and a 5/8 long 1/8 heat shrink tubing. I use the longer 1/16 tubing over the shorter tubing that forms a "C" because it is more secure because I've seen the "C" shaped tubing work itself out of the bell crank.
The ball link is installed in the bell crank using a 3/4 4-40 screw, washer, ball link, spacer, bell crank, washer, and 4-40 lock nut. After installation, I use some diagonal cutters to mess up the exposed threads of the screw to prevent the nut from coming off.
The completed bell crank assembly with 42" long lead outs is 21 grams.