I followed the instructions for "Fancherizing" the Sig Twister which are available on the web and somewhere in this forum (I think).  

Added 3" to the rear fuselage, reshaped the vert. stab and added half ribs to the wing. I must've broken almost all of the the half ribs at least once during handling and assembly!  



Power is an Axi 2826-12 controlled by a Wilbert Hubin timer. I'll be using an APC-E left hand prop (a Master Airscrew is pictured) and I haven't quite figgered what battery I'm gonna' use yet. CG is going to be about an inch forward of what the plans show.



Wing saddle is 1/16 balsa sandwiched with 1/64 ply and formed on the wing itself. The nylon bolts go to heavy ply bearers in the wing that are tapped, soaked with instant glue then tapped again. I used this system in two previous stunters and they worked just fine.



The tail is similar but I'll use nuts and bolts to secure it. A small balsa filler fits in the slot just ahead of the stab and behind the wing which I'll just cover with white tape.



When it's done I'll have something that I can learn maneuvers beyond inside and outside loops and inverted flight! That's all I know!  



I have another "Twister" identical to this one but it will be Enya 4-Stroke powered. I saw someone flying a 4-stroke "Ringmaster" a few years ago at VSC, it flew real nice and I knew immediately I had to build a 4-stroker. 

That is pure cool!  I built one last winter and wanted to do that, but couldn't figure out how....LOL  Guess I'll have tpo build another one now!

wow, nice.   

Thank you for the kind words Glenn! 

Dennis, do you think I should get a 20C or a 25C battery? I'll probably order a pair from Hobbypartz.com this weekend.

Robert:
With a 2500 mah pack at 20C that yields 50A constant rating - we never (except for crashes!) go over 35A and that is usually just a spike, 20C are plenty.  usually 25C are heavier than 20C too.

BTW, you did not say what ESC you planned to use but Keith Renecle just release his governing timer.  With it you can use a simple non governing ESC and let the timer take care of governing under manuvering loads and also for maintaining RPM as the battery wears down.  You might consider this option - see Keith's thread on the subject.

Nice job Robert, I like the wing bolt system. Take-apart models sure make transport easier, and with the price of car fuel these days, you can sometimes fly cheaper on the airlines to a distant competition or fly-in. This is what motivated my Protron design http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=18824.0
I split the fuselage and wings to make the flight case even smaller. I know that I said I would do some decent plans, but I spent loads of time on my governor timer to make that available. This is now working so I need to draw some decent plans!
The AXI 2826/12 has a low Kv of 760 so it usually needs 5-cells, even on a prop with a 6" pitch. The 2826/10 is the one to use with 5-cells. On my .40 size stunters, I've been using the Arrowind/E-Max 2820 and these motors work so well, and run cool. I use 4-cell 2200 mAh lipos and use only around 1400 mAh for a flight up her in Johannesburg and around 1800 down at sea level. This is with the 11 x 5,5 APC E props. Dennis also has the pusher version as well. Once again, great job and please post some pics when it is finished. Keith R

Oh man that's awesome lookin'! (How did I miss that?) I really like how you broke the fuse in to "jigsaw parts" like that. I'll bet it's even stronger than a stock profile fuselage. I was going to do the same "stabilizer capture" method on a previous stunter but went with the slotted platform instead. But after looking at yours I can see that's probably the way to go.

I have a Sig Magnum that I'm gonna' electrify and I was thinking of how I should make the wings removable, your method seems to be the best, plus I don't want to use any metal structural components if I can.

You recommend 5 cells huh? I was using 4 cell packs but that would explain why I had to run my Axi wide open, plus I was experiencing battery sag at the end of the flight. I mean some flights it would slow quite noticeably. I'm currently running a JETI Advance 40 Opto Plus controlled by a Wilbert Hubin timer but I'm open to suggestions and upgrades if need be.

Hi Robert,She looks real nice.Have you weighed it to this point and do you have a target weight?How much weight do you think you added with the extra ply,hardware,ect.I had a take apart Primary Force but it weighed a ton.It flew better than my flying skills at the heavy weight until Mother Earth disassembled it for the last time.It was really compact then!!!!!Dang outside squares !!!!Jeff

Hey Jeff! Sorry you lost yer plane I know how exactly how that feels!    

No I haven't weighed it yet but I'm just gonna' go by the old Free Flight method of "displacement equals maximum weight" that my dad taught me. Example: The original Twister is supposed to be powered by a .29-40 so if I were to put a .40 in it it shouldn't weigh any more than 40 ounces. The Axi 2826-12 I'm using is equal to a .40-.46 engine. The Twister does have more wing area than my other stunters do so I could probably get away with going over that target by a few ounces but as you know, lighter is always better!

Robert:
With a 2500 mah pack at 20C that yields 50A constant rating - we never (except for crashes!) go over 35A and that is usually just a spike, 20C are plenty.  usually 25C are heavier than 20C too.
BTW, you did not say what ESC you planned to use but Keith Renecle just release his governing timer.  With it you can use a simple non governing ESC and let the timer take care of governing under manuvering loads and also for maintaining RPM as the battery wears down.  You might consider this option - see Keith's thread on the subject.

Well that's good news Dennis, because it looks like 25C batteries are about twice as expensive as well! I'll look into Keith's timer too, thanks!