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Author Topic: "35" size motor selections  (Read 9045 times)

Offline Dennis Toth

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"35" size motor selections
« on: February 02, 2009, 07:23:41 AM »
Guys,

I am starting on my new E project which will be a "35" size ship and have been reviewing the motor / Battery pack options. Ideally, I would like this package to be around 12oz.. In looking at some of the work done by others here it seems that a 4s 2100mah 15C pack would work if one can keep the average current draw to around 17amp. The packs that I have seen are in the range of 8.4oz..

Now motors are another story. Most of the usual picks weigh in at around 5.4oz., there are a few that look to be a little lighter namely the RimFire 42-40-920, it weighs 4.4oz and can take a 4s pack.

Has anyone had any experience with the RimFire motors? What other units would be in the 4oz range and be able to use the 4s pack on say an 11" prop.

Best,        Dennis

Alan Hahn

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #1 on: February 02, 2009, 08:13:56 AM »
Dennis,
The Scorpion 3014 weighs in at 4.3 oz and my FMA 4s2100 (18C) pack weighs 7.3oz. The 16 turn version with a kV of 892 (the lowest they have I think) would be the best assuming you are flying less than 9000 rpm or so. My home-wound 3014 (kV=724) was just a little too low in kV to keep my 8000 rpm during the flight during the two flights or so I made with it. My standard motor is the 3020-16 (kV=880) at 5.2oz, but knowing now what I know, the 3014 would have been a fine choice too. With 60 foot lines, I am using a little less than 1600mAHr per flight (APC 12-6 prop).

My experience with the Nobler (a 35 size plane if there ever was one) was that this combo would work well.  I do note that the Nobler has a thinner airfoil than most "modern" planes, so keep that in mind concerning battery picks. If you wanted a little extra battery insurance, the EvoLight 4s2500 (18C and 8.3oz) on sale at Tower right now would be a good choice.

Doesn't answer your question about the Rim Fire. I am sure that one in the same ballpark as the 3014 would work ok too.

Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #2 on: February 02, 2009, 11:37:25 AM »
Alan,

Thanks for the info, it gives me a good starting place. The ship I am going to build is a little smaller then the Nobler having a 44" span it should work with either battery pack. I have looked up FMA on the web and they don't list an 18C pack what is your source for purchase?

Best,        Dennis

Online Crist Rigotti

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #3 on: February 02, 2009, 01:14:13 PM »
Dennis,
My Barnstormer (47"WS?) uses a Scorpion 3014-22 and a 4S 1550mah battery for OTS.  I can use a 4S 2200mah battery to fly a full pattern.  I'm using an APC-E 11 x 5.5 prop.  Just giving you this info as a reference.
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Alan Hahn

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2009, 01:30:49 PM »
Alan,

Thanks for the info, it gives me a good starting place. The ship I am going to build is a little smaller then the Nobler having a 44" span it should work with either battery pack. I have looked up FMA on the web and they don't list an 18C pack what is your source for purchase?

Best,        Dennis

here is a link.
http://www.fmadirect.com/detail.htm?item=2211&section=69

It is located in the last half of the battery list---after their 25C batteries. I think it is equivalent to the ThunderpowerLite 2100 cells (just because the dimensions and weights are so similar).

Alan Hahn

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2009, 01:35:02 PM »
Dennis,
My Barnstormer (47"WS?) uses a Scorpion 3014-22 and a 4S 1550mah battery for OTS.  I can use a 4S 2200mah battery to fly a full pattern.  I'm using an APC-E 11 x 5.5 prop.  Just giving you this info as a reference.

I note that Crist is right about the 3014-22 kV=892 (and I was wrong about the kV of the 3014-16 I mention above). That (3014-22) would be my recommendation.

Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #6 on: February 02, 2009, 02:15:06 PM »
Alan and Christ,

Thanks for the information, I will check this out, looks like the right place to start.

Alan, what type of balancing lead does the FMA pack have, I have a TP 610C charger that does TP's and some type of flat connector that is on my Tenergy packs ( I think it is a JST/Align).

Best,         Dennis

Online Dennis Adamisin

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #7 on: February 02, 2009, 03:29:20 PM »
stuntguy13-Dennis
Your 12 oz power package is a very realistic achievable goal, only I think the 42-40 is bigger than you want.  Check the Rimfire specs; I think the 35-36-1200 has the same W rating and weighs 3.5 oz.

First off, there is no problem with the Scorpion motors Alan & Crist have been talking about; I have not seen Alan's but I have seen Crist's set-up and it works great.  The Scorpions are well built, well supported and work fine.

However, back to your original post: I am flying a Rimfire 35-36-1200 on a 50 oz Sheeks "Swinger"; 4Sx2500 EvoLite battery, Phx-35, stock 10x5 APC burning about 1700-1750 per flight.  I have NO issues with it and have built my new REAL stunter for that same package except the new bird will use an 11x5.5 (no ground clearance on Swinger).

I bought my Rimfires two years ago, and they have roughly doubled in price since.  So I have been buying Turnigy motors because they "spec" the same.  The Swinger is nose-heavy and I am limited on battery placement.  Thus I will be replacing the 3.5 oz Rimfire with a 2.5 oz Turnigy 28-36-1200 (the little red&blue motor) that looks REAL good so far on the bench.  The back-up plan will be one of the new Turnigy 36-32's.

I am in a bit of a quandary over the kV rating - Alan's recommendation and your own experience notwithstanding: I tried a 950kV motor once that would NOT give me my target 10,500 rpm on 4S.  Since then I have opted for higher (too high?) kV then let the ESC do the work.  Based on what I read here, I suspect I am sub-optimized, possibly running "hot" but that is next summer's work to further explore & either affirm or fix..!

..oh, and get ready for the strongest 35 you EVER ran!


Denny Adamisin
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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #8 on: February 02, 2009, 03:30:42 PM »
Alan and Christ,

Thanks for the information, I will check this out, looks like the right place to start.

Alan, what type of balancing lead does the FMA pack have, I have a TP 610C charger that does TP's and some type of flat connector that is on my Tenergy packs ( I think it is a JST/Align).

Best,         Dennis

I am not sure--other than its a "FMA" type! It is the same type of connector that came with my FMA Kokam packs from a couple of years ago. I would have thought that TP would have adapter cables that would work.


If not, then I think you might need this

http://www.fmadirect.com/detail.htm?item=2299&section=45

You plug the battery into the little board. You would need to cut/replace the plug on the wires with a plug that the TP 610C supports.

One comment though, I just ordered one of these extension cables--but it doesn't work with my FMA charger, so something is wrong with FMA's description. I need to contact them to clear it up. I don't know if they just sent me the wrong item,or if something is mislabeled. I'll update you after I figure it out.

It might also be easier to cut off the FMA plug and put the TP plug onto it.

That is one of the PIA about the state of compatibility in this electric part of the hobby!

Online Crist Rigotti

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #9 on: February 02, 2009, 04:59:22 PM »
Here is a link that list what battery has which balance tap.  Thanks to RC Accessory for the list.

http://www.rcaccessory.com/pdf/Battery%20Tap%20Configuration%20Guide.pdf

Dean,
Cam we make this a "sticky"?
« Last Edit: February 03, 2009, 06:35:17 AM by Crist Rigotti »
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Alan Hahn

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #10 on: February 02, 2009, 07:25:52 PM »
stuntguy13-Dennis
Your 12 oz power package is a very realistic achievable goal, only I think the 42-40 is bigger than you want.  Check the Rimfire specs; I think the 35-36-1200 has the same W rating and weighs 3.5 oz.
....<snip>...

I am in a bit of a quandary over the kV rating - Alan's recommendation and your own experience notwithstanding: I tried a 950kV motor once that would NOT give me my target 10,500 rpm on 4S.  Since then I have opted for higher (too high?) kV then let the ESC do the work.  Based on what I read here, I suspect I am sub-optimized, possibly running "hot" but that is next summer's work to further explore & either affirm or fix..!

..oh, and get ready for the strongest 35 you EVER ran!



(edited to correct some typos)
Dennis,
Of course kV isn't the only parameter that matters. It is pretty easy to show using a simple motor model that the torque constant =kt~10/kv. The torque just equals kt*I(amps) or 10*I(amps)/kv. So far it appears that all kv motors are basically equivalent. However the smaller motors have a higher internal resistance, and this is limiting  the current. So with the same kv, but a smaller or "weaker" (for example, lower strength magnets or higher air gap) will have less torque at the same rpm with the same input voltage than the larger motor (example 3014 vs 3020 vs 3026). So if you want to turn the same prop with the smaller motor, you need to have a higher voltage--to get the same current I.

What happens is that the higher resistance of the smaller motor at the same current for the same torque will make more heat---so it will be less efficient than the bigger motor.

Now there is a limit on how big the motor should be. Of course weight is one issue. But there is a point I left out of the simple motor model above. That is there are also magnetic losses in these motors. What this means is as the ESC commutates and the magnetic field grows and shrinks in the iron laminations of the stator, you lose a bit of energy (hysteresis losses). There are also eddy currents induced by these varying magnetic fields in the laminations (the thinner the lamination the lower the eddy current losses). These iron losses are larger at the higher rpms, while the resistance losses are higher as rpm->0.  It is stated that at any particular voltage, where these iron losses equal the resistance losses, that is the most efficient rpm to run the particular motor. You can see the effect of these losses by measuring the no load current, Io. You will see that the bigger motor will typically have a larger Io, so it is less efficient as you get close to the no load rpm (a very light load). Primarily this is due to the fact that the bigger (or longer in this case) motor has more iron to magnetize/demagnetize and more laminations with eddy currents. I am basically comparing motors of the same configuration with the same kV--like Scorpion 3014, 3020, 3026,... or AXI 2814, 2820, 2826...

We tend run our motors is in the high rpm range (80-90% of the kV endpoint), because as I have pointed out in other posts, we typically supersize our motor. So it is easy to drop the size a bit (3026 to 3020, 3020 to 3014) and not change the efficiency very much-- since we are working around the optimal rpm for efficiency anyway (nominally ~80% of kV*V). However if you shrink the motor too much, you may start operating it at 60-70% range, and now you are putting a lot of your battery energy into heat, not to turn the prop.
« Last Edit: February 03, 2009, 07:46:49 AM by Alan Hahn »

Offline Igor Burger

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #11 on: February 03, 2009, 01:53:19 AM »
Nice explanatin, but unfortunately we run thse motors in PWM mode and it little change the situation of resistance loses .it seems sometimes that higher resistance can push motor to "more throttle" and thus to better efficiency and sometimes just opposite.  ~^

Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #12 on: February 03, 2009, 07:33:47 AM »
Guys,

This has been a very informative thread some things that I am still sorting out with the RimFire option is the 35 vs 42 motor size. I like the light weight of the 35 size but am concerned with the higher 1200kV. I haven't gotten my arms around the selection process here. For me I look at the kV, the internal resistance, the max # of cells and weight. I want to get a package that is easy to purchase, reliable reasonable price. I feel the biggest barrier to entry for fliers to try electric is upfront cost. The packages that have been discussed in this thread help get someone started for around $250 ish (motor, ESC, Timer, 2 battery packs) which is still a bit steep but better than the pro setup at $650 (add another $400 for 2 additional battery packs). I think getting people started with "Buy this stuff" like one would for a "35 wet" (twister, LA 40, Sig fuel, uniflow tank) is what will grow interests. Then they can move to the "Pro" stuff once they are confident it will do what we all say it will.

I did this for a friend who decided he would try electric after seeing mine and taking a short flight on my test ship.  I gave him information for the AXI 2826-10 setup, CC45, Ztron timer, 4S1P 3850mah battery and sent a copy of my CC settings for Castle link. He put this in a converted wet ship, it worked as described he is a convert. We need to develop a couple more "standard" packages for different sizes without all the "electric mystery" to help grow the interests. I'll get off the soap box now.

Best,          Dennis

Alan Hahn

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #13 on: February 03, 2009, 07:45:46 AM »
Nice explanatin, but unfortunately we run thse motors in PWM mode and it little change the situation of resistance loses .it seems sometimes that higher resistance can push motor to "more throttle" and thus to better efficiency and sometimes just opposite.  ~^

Igor,
In my explanation, I am assuming that the "effective" applied voltage is some value less than the battery voltage, so at 50% throttle the applied voltage would just be 1/2 the battery voltage (at its terminal). This is basically what is going on with the PWM as long as the L/r time constant of the motor/ESC combo is long compared to the PWM frequency.

Alan Hahn

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #14 on: February 03, 2009, 08:05:05 AM »
Guys,

This has been a very informative thread some things that I am still sorting out with the RimFire option is the 35 vs 42 motor size. I like the light weight of the 35 size but am concerned with the higher 1200kV. I haven't gotten my arms around the selection process here. For me I look at the kV, the internal resistance, the max # of cells and weight. I want to get a package that is easy to purchase, reliable reasonable price. I feel the biggest barrier to entry for fliers to try electric is upfront cost. The packages that have been discussed in this thread help get someone started for around $250 ish (motor, ESC, Timer, 2 battery packs) which is still a bit steep but better than the pro setup at $650 (add another $400 for 2 additional battery packs). I think getting people started with "Buy this stuff" like one would for a "35 wet" (twister, LA 40, Sig fuel, uniflow tank) is what will grow interests. Then they can move to the "Pro" stuff once they are confident it will do what we all say it will.

I did this for a friend who decided he would try electric after seeing mine and taking a short flight on my test ship.  I gave him information for the AXI 2826-10 setup, CC45, Ztron timer, 4S1P 3850mah battery and sent a copy of my CC settings for Castle link. He put this in a converted wet ship, it worked as described he is a convert. We need to develop a couple more "standard" packages for different sizes without all the "electric mystery" to help grow the interests. I'll get off the soap box now.

Best,          Dennis


Dennis,
Sorry for turning your reasonable request into a treatise on motors.

I think I have posted this before, but I completely agree with you about entry costs. One of the reasons I have gone with the 2100 mAHr cell size because I too thought that a lot of guys are scared away by the entry costs especially with batteries that are running up near the $200 range. I just wanted to show that it is possible to come up with a power package that isn't way out of the "common" CL fliers price range. After all if you can lust for a AeroTiger 36 then for about the same amount of money, you could buy what I am using.

Nevertheless, to me the scariest purchase is the battery pack. Because until you actually fly, you don't know what the minimum is. I've been learning by bootstrapping myself up from the original Brodak Super Clown setup. I started stock, then began to replace components, first the ESC with the CC Phoenix35 (because it was on sale for ~$59) with a JMP2 timer. This let me play with throttle settings and more closely adjust the total flight time. When I say how much power I used from the stock 3s4000MAHr battery, I realized I could get by with a 3s2100mAHr and still do the pattern. Also began to put on larger props, slowed down the rpm, and had a lot of fun.

By the time I built the Nobler, I had 4 of the 3s2100mAH packs, and had bought the Scorpion motor (3020-12). I bought the motor because I saw a prop table that showed currents with various sized props. I knew my original Brodak-40 Nobler Arf flew pretty good with an 11-4 prop at ~10k rpm, so I realized that motor would turn a prop that size just fine with currents that my 35A ESC could handle. I wasn't sure about the battery, but figured two of the 3s2100 packs, hooked up in parallel should work--the single 3s4000 wouldn't fit in the Nobler fuel tank compartment. So I tried it and found that I was using only ~2200mAHr of the total pack capacity (6 2100 cells), so I thought that 4 2100 cells would give me the 20% reserve I needed, and save about 3-4oz to boot. So then I bought the 4s2100 packs (not before!).

So that is how I got where I am with the Nobler. A little trial and error. I plan the same thing with the Vector40, go with two 3s2100 in parallel and see how much is used up. Maybe a 5s would work, but I am guessing that I might just stay with the two 3s2100 packs to keep costs at bay. We will see!

Offline Dean Pappas

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #15 on: February 03, 2009, 04:40:56 PM »
Hello Dennis,
There is a Rimfire 35-36-1000 motor that should work very nicely with a 4S 2100 or 4S 2500 pack.
Regards,
   Dean Pappas
Dean Pappas

Alan Hahn

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #16 on: February 03, 2009, 06:29:00 PM »
Guys,

This has been a very informative thread some things that I am still sorting out with the RimFire option is the 35 vs 42 motor size. I like the light weight of the 35 size but am concerned with the higher 1200kV. I haven't gotten my arms around the selection process here. For me I look at the kV, the internal resistance, the max # of cells and weight. I want to get a package that is easy to purchase, reliable reasonable price. I feel the biggest barrier to entry for fliers to try electric is upfront cost. The packages that have been discussed in this thread help get someone started for around $250 ish (motor, ESC, Timer, 2 battery packs) which is still a bit steep but better than the pro setup at $650 (add another $400 for 2 additional battery packs). I think getting people started with "Buy this stuff" like one would for a "35 wet" (twister, LA 40, Sig fuel, uniflow tank) is what will grow interests. Then they can move to the "Pro" stuff once they are confident it will do what we all say it will.

I did this for a friend who decided he would try electric after seeing mine and taking a short flight on my test ship.  I gave him information for the AXI 2826-10 setup, CC45, Ztron timer, 4S1P 3850mah battery and sent a copy of my CC settings for Castle link. He put this in a converted wet ship, it worked as described he is a convert. We need to develop a couple more "standard" packages for different sizes without all the "electric mystery" to help grow the interests. I'll get off the soap box now.

Best,          Dennis

Ok, my Twister recommendation--with prices I see today  2/3/09--I know this will work.

Scorpion 3014-22 cost          $49.99   http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_25_38&products_id=206
Castle Creations Phoenix 35  $84.99  tower hobbies http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGVS1&P=0
Jmp-2 or Ztron timer  $30 (http://www.bsdmicrorc.com/index.php?categoryID=46&offset=16)
2 FMA 4s2100 mAHr packs 2x $62.25  =$122.50*                               |
Cellpro 4s charger with AC power supply $49.95+$29.95  = $79.90  *    }  FMA Web site (http://www.fmadirect.com/)
*FMA Winter promo (-$30) on $200 order or more                              |
total exclusive of S&H =$337.38

S&H ~$35 for my choices

The only place to save may be in the batteries. IMHO, the CC Phoenix governor is really worth any premium over a generic ESC.


almost necessary extra--wattmeter $55 from Tower.
« Last Edit: February 03, 2009, 07:54:35 PM by Alan Hahn »

Alan Hahn

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #17 on: February 03, 2009, 07:53:25 PM »
I've been fondling my Twister kit! n1

Online Dennis Adamisin

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #18 on: February 03, 2009, 09:21:50 PM »
I've been fondling my Twister kit! n1

Uhh, Alan, is that like "free" to look at but to touch it costs "1 dollah"???  b1  n1  n~  LL~  LL~  LL~
Denny Adamisin
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Offline Rudy Taube

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #19 on: February 03, 2009, 10:31:38 PM »
Hi Dennis,

I agree with the other Dennis (Denny? boy I wish all you Dennis's had photos with your posts so we could tell ya-all apart!  n~), RE: the Turnigy motors as a line to look into. They are amazingly inexpensive. Many of my friends at our electric field use them in all size planes, from 14 oz fomies to 13 pound warbirds that fly very fast. They have very few problems with them, and they always seem to run cool.

I still prefer the brand names (AXI, Hacker, etc.) that are sold, and backed, by USA distributors, but I have to admit that I am tempted to try one of these Turnigy's in one of my planes. ;-)

Here is their link:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?catname=%3Ci%3ETURNIGY%3C%2Fi%3E&idCategory=223&ParentCat=59

Please keep us updated with the outcome of your experiment. I am still amazed that Alan, and I guess others, are able to complete the entire pattern with a 2100 mAh battery. I wish they lived out west, I sure would like to fly one of these and see if it still pulls as well as my P-40, or if it is one of those "very light on the lines" feelings that some of the guys still use, like the CL planes of old?

Regards,  H^^
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Alan Hahn

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #20 on: February 04, 2009, 08:06:29 AM »
<snip>....

Please keep us updated with the outcome of your experiment. I am still amazed that Alan, and I guess others, are able to complete the entire pattern with a 2100 mAh battery. I wish they lived out west, I sure would like to fly one of these and see if it still pulls as well as my P-40, or if it is one of those "very light on the lines" feelings that some of the guys still use, like the CL planes of old?

Regards,  H^^

Rudy,
I've had two others fly the Nobler, Fred Krueger and Mike Pratt and neither mentioned that they thought the plane was too light on the lines. Certainly feels good in the overheads, no lightness, responsive on the controls. I will say that I am not a fan of a heavy pulling airplane, but that was also true of my glow planes. I flew a P40 with a Brodak40 and it was a marvelous plane for my money, but it was also the biggest CL plane I have flown. Didn't think it was over pulling me.
Like I have said, perhaps it is partly the Nobler design (relatively thin airfoil, and 44oz weight, so it flies the level laps pretty efficiently), the fact I have settled on a large prop (12-6--for that plane) turning at "only" 8000 rpm, flight length is just enough---I have about 3 laps after pulling out of clover.
I will say that when I finish the pattern, the battery pack is just at the 20% remaining capacity level---varies a bit day to day depending on wind. But it was like that all last year on all my packs. Not too sure what else to say, except I think I could do a little bit better if I could optimize the kV a little more.
I would also say that if I was starting new with this plane and no packs in hand, those 4s2500 Evolite's at Tower look like they are a pretty good deal right now (only ~1oz weight and $12 cost penalty over my current 4s2100 packs.)

Offline Robertc

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #21 on: February 04, 2009, 08:47:57 AM »
As I am the "convert" that Dennis (Stuntguy) is talking about, I'd like to thank him for the help with my set up.  Have had to change nothing since the first flight.  I'm selling my latest pipe ship ready to fly in a few minutes.  That's being converted in one flight!

Robert Compton

Offline Archie Adamisin

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #22 on: February 04, 2009, 01:45:33 PM »
Stuntguy,

I have watched this thread with particular interest because it revolves around what myself and my Uncle Denny A. experimented with last season.  If you follow the Shocking the Oriental thread, you will find test results from Rim Fire 35-36-1200 on 4S & 35-30-1250 on 4S of which both worked flawlessly.  The Oriental ARF weighed in from 47-50 ozs.  It now flies on the Brodak SC motor on 3S the same way.  All these motors used 10 x 5 APC "E" props @ 11,100 rpm on 63' lines @ a 5.2 lap time.  So that's (3) different set-ups and (3) of the same results.  Much of this is thanks to Castle updating the programming for the controline  governing mode.  We are now experimenting with the Turnigy motors and from what we have seen, these will be our motors of choice because of performance/$$$.

You might also check out the Electric Swinger thread that My uncle Dennis flies it with the Rim-Fire 35-36-1200 & 4S and it flies effortlessly.  It also flew on the 35-30-1250, but unfortunately it fell victim to hot day/poor cooling.  But it flew no different than the 35-36-1200 until it let go.  It is 1.5 ozs lighter!!

Go through Alan's ARF Nobler thread, he is having the same success with the Scorpion series motors which are well built motors.  Cost is very reasonable and the result is repeatable and reliable.  His recommendations list for a power-system would work great.  They are proven.

Check out Crist Rigotti's thread on the electric Primary Force.  He used a Scorpion motor se-up and had great results.  I flew his Barnstormer @ FCM and it worked really well.  I believe he is also going to electric this year for his CLPA model.

The bottom line is "What do you want it to do?" & "How much do you want to spend?"  This year I'll be using Turnigy motors, Castle ESC's, Will Hublin Timers, and Zippy Rhino 20C 4S packs.  Motor & battery size will be determined by application.  I have a wife, (2) kids, & a limited budget.  I tend to go to higher Kv motors because I like high rpm/low pitch props to maximize thrust and minimize wind up.  Many have been successful with high pitch props.  I haven't.  Again my experience in the Muncie wind tunnel.   LL~

I look forward to seeing how your project unfolds.  Good luck.

Archie Adamisin
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Archie Adamisin
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Offline John Cralley

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #23 on: February 04, 2009, 08:30:33 PM »
Quote from: Alan Hahn link=topic=11332.msg98707#msg98707 date=1233613842 If not, then I think you might need this

[url
http://www.fmadirect.com/detail.htm?item=2299&section=45[/url]

You plug the battery into the little board. You would need to cut/replace the plug on the wires with a plug that the TP 610C supports.

Actually, you may need either:

http://www.fmadirect.com/Detail.htm?item=2271&section=45

or:

http://www.fmadirect.com/Detail.htm?item=2125&section=45

Depending on the balancing plug that is used by your particular brand of battery. Here is the one that works for my Rhino batteries:
If this doesn't make sense it is probably because I don't know what I'm talking about!!! LOL

John



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Alan Hahn

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #24 on: February 05, 2009, 07:53:01 AM »
Quote from: Alan Hahn link=topic=11332.msg98707#msg98707 date=1233613842 If not, then I think you might need this

[url
http://www.fmadirect.com/detail.htm?item=2299&section=45[/url]

You plug the battery into the little board. You would need to cut/replace the plug on the wires with a plug that the TP 610C supports.

Actually, you may need either:

http://www.fmadirect.com/Detail.htm?item=2271&section=45

or:

http://www.fmadirect.com/Detail.htm?item=2125&section=45

Depending on the balancing plug that is used by your particular brand of battery. Here is the one that works for my Rhino batteries:
If this doesn't make sense it is probably because I don't know what I'm talking about!!! LOL

John




John,
If he had the FMA charger you would be correct, but he has the opposite problem, he has the Thunderpower charger and is thinking about buying FMA batteries. (unless I misunderstood your post!).

I note that I contacted FMA and they are sending me the correct extension cable.

However I would guess that someone must sell a FMA adapter to TP charger cable.

Offline John Cralley

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #25 on: February 05, 2009, 09:02:35 AM »
Alan,  You are correct I misread what the problem was.

So, Ignore my post about the adapter board.

John
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Online Crist Rigotti

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #26 on: February 05, 2009, 10:48:49 AM »
Archie reminded me of my Primary Force set up.  Scorpion 3020-16, CC-35 ESC, JMP2 timer, 4S2200 mah battery, APC-E 13 X 6 cut down to 12 and repitched to 5 and launch rpm 9400 on 60 foot lines eye to eye.  I use 1800 mah per flight.
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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #27 on: February 05, 2009, 11:34:30 AM »
Maybe a good idea would be a sticky link on "Things that work". At least it would give a ballpark idea of where to start.

Offline Dean Pappas

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #28 on: February 05, 2009, 10:12:42 PM »
I'll tend to it.


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Offline Igor Burger

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #29 on: February 06, 2009, 01:39:11 AM »
Igor,
In my explanation, I am assuming that the "effective" applied voltage is some value less than the battery voltage, so at 50% throttle the applied voltage would just be 1/2 the battery voltage (at its terminal). This is basically what is going on with the PWM as long as the L/r time constant of the motor/ESC combo is long compared to the PWM frequency.

I know what you mean, but reality is worse, try to calculate input power for some prop and then efficiency of motor like Axi 2826/10 at 4lipos, you will see that the efiiciency is less than optimal if you run it on say 75% throttle :-) (should be close to 80% but reality is 70-75%) ... may be it is not visible on Lipos, but I fly A123 to 95% if its capacity and 5 or even 10% difference in capacity is big problem.

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #30 on: February 06, 2009, 08:14:51 AM »
I know what you mean, but reality is worse, try to calculate input power for some prop and then efficiency of motor like Axi 2826/10 at 4lipos, you will see that the efiiciency is less than optimal if you run it on say 75% throttle :-) (should be close to 80% but reality is 70-75%) ... may be it is not visible on Lipos, but I fly A123 to 95% if its capacity and 5 or even 10% difference in capacity is big problem.

Igor,
I know you lose some efficiency---I can see that when I run (on the bench) my same motor with the ESC in governor mode (at 8000 rpm), but in one case I use a 4s and in the other case a 3s. Here is a link to that old post.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=9256.0
My data are shown in the third entry. To summarize that thread, I was seeing something like a 5-10% efficiency loss from the 3s to a 4s battery (3s was of course better, since the ESC was runnning closer to 100%). So that is what I mean in various posts that maybe I could improve my battery draw a little bit better by trying to get my kV down a little more to match the battery. Of course to keep the rpm constant through the flight, you need to be matching the voltage near the end of the flight!

However if the motor was really running with full on/off current pulses, the efficiency would be horrendous.

Offline Igor Burger

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #31 on: February 06, 2009, 08:43:03 AM »
That is exactly what I mean ... unfortunatelly I missed that thread. Anyway, prediction of efficiency or RPM, or whatever from I0, Ri and KV is very easy on 100% throttle, but do you know how to estimate partial throttle properties? Some calculators can do also partial throttle canlulation, I do not know how they do it, but results does not match reality. I have small xls spread sheet having calculator for 100% throttle and having power absorption constants for some props and I tried to add some calculation with using self inductance of winding, but never got usefull result as well - too complicated and too little time :-(

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #32 on: February 06, 2009, 08:58:52 AM »
That is exactly what I mean ... unfortunatelly I missed that thread. Anyway, prediction of efficiency or RPM, or whatever from I0, Ri and KV is very easy on 100% throttle, but do you know how to estimate partial throttle properties?   ....<snip>

No I don't know how to do it theoretically either.

Only way I would know how to measure something like this cleanly would be to have an adjustable power supply where you start out at the full voltage of a pack (e.g. 4s), then manually lower the ps voltage output in some steps, each step measuring the input power (with the ESC running in governor mode of course). The 100% throttle would be when the ESC just loses  the rpm lock. Unfortunately to measure one of our motors in the power range we run them, you would need a hefty power supply (=costly). I suppose I could mock up something using a 4s battery, letting it run down to the 20-30% charge state, then change to a 3s battery which would drop through this voltage threshold where the governor loses the rpm lock (but still be within the 3s voltage operating range). Could record this on my Eagletree. Maybe that might be interesting to see how the efficiency varies over my operation range.

One thing I am curious about is Castle Creation is coming out with a new line of ESC's which apparently will include some form of data recording built in. I would sure be curious if we could get some readback of the %throttle during a flight (with governor) to see how close we are to the "edge".

Offline Dean Pappas

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #33 on: February 06, 2009, 04:10:07 PM »
Please allow me to add a complicating wrinkle ...
The more overhead that is left available ( that is the lower the PWM duty cycle is in level cruise) the better the RPM maintaining loop gain will be. This especially true in the load transients like square corners. The price we pay is efficiency. Is there a happy medium? There must be, ans it will probably vary to taste and with airplane drag, weight and aerodynamic efficiency in the corner. That's why we are experimentalists!

take care of yourselves, Friends,
   Dean Pappas
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Offline Igor Burger

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #34 on: February 06, 2009, 04:28:00 PM »
Yes, smaller prop, more headroom, and clever throttle control  VD~

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #35 on: February 06, 2009, 06:09:56 PM »
Well I am an experimentalist (in my job description), so until I see an rpm dip in a square or vertical maneuver, or an overrun in a down, I guess I'm ok!

But indeed, it is fun!

Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #36 on: February 08, 2009, 02:13:43 PM »
Guys,

Looking at the information in this thread on ESC set up it seems that as we step up the Voltage from 11.1 to 14.8V it seems that one thing that we need to check is stepping up the proper RPM. As I recall we want to set the RPM at around 80% of max kV*Volts. This means dropping the pitch to allow the higher RPM while holding the lap time. If I understand this right it this should reduce the total mah. Could we go higher then 80%? Anyone try this?

Best,         Dennis

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #37 on: February 08, 2009, 02:29:45 PM »
Guys,

Looking at the information in this thread on ESC set up it seems that as we step up the Voltage from 11.1 to 14.8V it seems that one thing that we need to check is stepping up the proper RPM. As I recall we want to set the RPM at around 80% of max kV*Volts. This means dropping the pitch to allow the higher RPM while holding the lap time. If I understand this right it this should reduce the total mah. Could we go higher then 80%? Anyone try this?

Best,         Dennis

My outlook on batteries is a bit different (I think) than most. I look at each cell as a certain amount of energy. To make a PA (ok stop laughing!) flight requires a certain amount of energy, determined by weight, plane size (drag), propeller choice (lets face it, we all have out prejudices) which then chooses our rpm. So for however we do it, we need a certain amount of energy, which translates, more or less, into a nominal battery weight. As is probably well known to most of you, I decided to choose 2100mAHr cells, since they are one the more popular sizes, which translates into somewhat cheaper expenses. I'll also mention that they also --for reasons I am not sure of-- optimize energy per weight.

So once I have done that, I have to carry a certain number of these 2100mAHr cells, no way around that. If for example it turns out that I would need 6 cells, then I could arrange those batteries in a 1s6P, 2s3p, 3s2p, or 6s1p configuration, and then choose the kV of the motor to match. Since the 1s6p would require 6 times the current as the 6s1p, I would have to have an ESC which could handle the current (actually I don't know of any ESC's of the size we use that would run on the voltage of a 1s setup). There would be no change in efficiency on any choice I would make--but I would need a heavier gauge wire for the 1s than the 6s. In all these cases, my prop choice and rpm would be the same.

So this long winded explanation is that if I was going between 3s and 4s, my preference would be to drop the kV of the motor accordingly. Of course you could do what you (Dennis) says, and choose a prop that spins faster, but that, IMHO, would require more energy (and thus a bigger battery) than the lower rpm. However there may be positive tradeoffs such as keeping the velocity up in the climb.

Offline Dean Pappas

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #38 on: February 08, 2009, 09:20:19 PM »
Hello Dennis,
No, running the RPM up and the pitch down by the same percentage will not improve current draw.
The plane will still need the same wattage to fly level at a given lap time, and the climbs and dives pretty much cancel. As a matter of fact, assuming the diameter stays the same, the lower pitch higher RPM prop will be less efficient, and there may (or may not) be a measurable increase in total energy drawn from the pack.

Time for head scratchin' ?
   Dean P.
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Offline Mark Scarborough

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #39 on: February 08, 2009, 09:55:16 PM »
You know this is all interesting, but are we aproaching it the wrong way perhaps? I would think the best approach is to figure out what works BEST to perform the task , that being to fly the pattern. And then match the system to the task at hand. From all i can gather, a low pitch high rpm setup has much better speed regulation than the other high pitch low rpm system. So that being my assumption, then designing a system to perform in this manner is the goal and the best aproach to solving the task we choose, that being to fly PA manuevers.  If we are flying for efficiency and duration records, then our goal is to maximize efficiency. My personal vote is to build the system that performs the manuevers optimally, and then just abosrb the hit on efficience as a cost of playing the game so to speak. We do that with two strokes,, we run them in a less than efficient manner to get the performance we want, that being a controlled application of power appropriate to the task at hand.
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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #40 on: February 09, 2009, 06:53:54 AM »
Mark, I don't disagree.

But I gotta lug those batteries around for the full flight, even in the clover when a standard glow engine is almost on empty.

So the efficiency I am talking about is during the boring level flight part. When I point the nose up, efficiency be damned, I want the power there!---And it is there. Just having less weight to haul up and to brake down makes sense to me. This plane is one of the best, if not the best, performing setups that I have ever flown.

And finally, in the spirit of the original thread, which I thought was to come up with a reasonable cost setup, it makes sense not to have to buy $200 batteries.

Now yes, if you are going for the gold, then what you say may really be the right idea. Just like in glow, there is the PA 61 way and the Fox 35 way. We are not all going for the gold (that option passed me by, if it was ever there at all a long time ago!)

Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #41 on: February 09, 2009, 11:41:06 AM »
Guys,

Interesting thoughts here. First as Alan said we started out looking to define a workable "35 ish" power package. I think this was done with several option to chose from. In defining the package one of the challenges was "weight". Again several good options on battery size chooses have been posted. Then we started to refine it a little looking at matching the motor/prop and battery the idea being to get the draw from the pack to be as little as possible while maintaining full performance. This is were we started playing with rpm/prop pitch combo's. It seems to me after following this that some of this will be model specific. From my own experience I have noticed that level flight takes very little out of the pack. I changed run times from 5min 40sec to 5min 20sec and saw like 25maps difference. However add one more vertical eight in there and it jumps to 150mahs extra. In trying to refine the setup the aim was to see if one setup approach gets an edge (read that as uses less mah) then another through the pattern and would allow using a smaller & lighter & less costly battery pack. Seems we all need to go try the opposite setup of whatever we are using and post the comparative results.

Best,        Dennis

Offline Mark Scarborough

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #42 on: February 09, 2009, 12:07:29 PM »
Guys,

Seems we all need to go try the opposite setup of whatever we are using and post the comparative results.

Best,        Dennis
Granted, however to approach I advocate requires a different motor,, not just changing the prop so its a bit more challangeing. Using a motor with a KV in the 1100 range with a 4 pitch prop turning around 10500 to 11000 is the idea I am pursuing. However, seeing that I have both the Hacker A30 10XL and the 8XL I will be able to swap out and get a pretty reasonable comparison between the two. That is once the weather stops making like snow flakes and cold wind!
I am playing in the 640 inch wing area range, so Im not really making much of a case with the smaller setups, but I think the philosophy of high rpm low pitch still has merit even in this smaller size. I will report my findings when I get some flying in. I am interested though in the smaller size, I think Alan may be onto something with the Nobler sized airframes, but alas, I already invested my $$$$ in 4270 mah batteries so I am going to play in this yard for  awhile.
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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #43 on: February 09, 2009, 12:52:29 PM »
In the spirit of what Dennis mentioned, I was going to have a couple of guys fly my electrics this year to give me feedback--just in case I am fooling myself! HB~>

The one thing going for Dennis's prop pitch changes is, as Mark also indicated, a lot easier than changing motors. Of course I have done similar things, but instead of small pitch changes, try small rpm changes (same diameter prop).


Offline John Cralley

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #44 on: February 15, 2009, 01:06:16 PM »
Not to hijack this thread but I'm "re-setting" my S-1 Ringmaster (a classic 35 profile type model) with my new Castle Creations 45 ESC.

Those of you that don't have the Castle Creations ESCs and their programming system using a PC can stop reading at this point (if you haven't already stopped)!! LOL

Well I have a couple of CC 45 ESC in hand and the Castle Link programming kit. I have the software working after a couple of hours fussing and cussing trying to get Win 2000 Pro to a compatible configuration. Now I'm stuck with the number of "poles" (magnets) in my motors. I'm tempted to just disassemble the motors and COUNT the magnets but before I do that I have a disk (white butter tub top) that I have divided as Alan Hahn described in another thread to use to get a tachometer reading and thus use the CC calculator to get the "pole" number.

I'm going with a 4S Li-poly on my Hextronik 4240 (Turnigy) motor (KV 1050) for starters. The Ringmaster weights 34-35 oz (not a light weight) and is nominally 400 sq inches wing area. I am just wondering what others have setup per the Castle-Link Program settings and what advice those others may have. There just may be too many choices for this old man!! LOL

Right now I have one ESC programmed in Control Line, Governor Mode
Throttle response  7
Gov Gain 21
Initial spool up  5
Head speed rate change 5  (whatever that is??)
Auto Rotate enabled  = False
Governor mode Type  Fixed
Bat type LiPo
Bat voltage  14.8
Gear Ratio = 1.000
Motor KV  = 1050
Motor Poles  = 14  (a guess at this time -- there are 12 sets of windings how does this relate to "poles")
Speeds 1, 2 and 3 = 10000  (ballpark guess)
Brake = hard
Brake delay = .6 sec
Brake Ramp = immmediate
Cutoffs all = default
Motor start power = high 100%
All other motor = default

I'm wondering if I'm in the ballpark with the exception of the "pole" number which is yet to be determined.

Thanks for any advice!
John Cralley
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Alan Hahn

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #45 on: February 15, 2009, 02:12:37 PM »
John,
There is a high likelihood that there are 14 magnets with 12 teeth on the stator. The poles they are referring to are just the number of magnets---since 99% of the time, the magnets alternate poles (N-S-N-S....) as you go around the outer tube, so 14 magnets=7 NorthPoles+7 SouthPoles=14 "poles" in total.

Offline John Cralley

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #46 on: February 16, 2009, 06:35:15 AM »
Thanks Alan,

Now I am wondering what happens if the "pole" count entered in the ESC is incorrect? I presume that the ESC uses the pole count to set the RPM. Is this correct?? At least that looks like it is the case for "Control Line Governor Mode" with the new firmware installed. It seems that I can set three different RPMs according to the "throttle" setting (0 to 50%, 50% to 99% and over 99%). So if the incorrect "pole" number is entered does this just mean that the RPM will not be that which was entered for that throttle setting. Assuming that entering the incorrect "pole" count will not damage the ESC or motor, could you not just use your tachometer to test if you have the correct number entered?? Would too few give you a lower RPM and too many a higher RPM??

Maybe I ought to post this over at Castle Creations and get it from the horse's mouth!!  LOL
John Cralley
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Alan Hahn

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #47 on: February 16, 2009, 07:03:43 AM »
Thanks Alan,

Now I am wondering what happens if the "pole" count entered in the ESC is incorrect? I presume that the ESC uses the pole count to set the RPM. Is this correct?? At least that looks like it is the case for "Control Line Governor Mode" with the new firmware installed. It seems that I can set three different RPMs according to the "throttle" setting (0 to 50%, 50% to 99% and over 99%). So if the incorrect "pole" number is entered does this just mean that the RPM will not be that which was entered for that throttle setting. Assuming that entering the incorrect "pole" count will not damage the ESC or motor, could you not just use your tachometer to test if you have the correct number entered?? Would too few give you a lower RPM and too many a higher RPM??

Maybe I ought to post this over at Castle Creations and get it from the horse's mouth!!  LOL

John,
The ESC is just counting the magnetic impulses as the outer shell rotates, then calculates the rpm by dividing by the # you input.

One time I was doing testing of some small motors which had 12 magnets (and 9 teeth on the stator) and forgot to reset my EagleTree Data recorder (same issue as the ESC rpm governor mode) with the correct magnet count (it had 14 in it). I was puzzled by the strange rpm that the EagleTree was reporting until I realized that the rpm was just 14/12 times what it was indicating.

It won't hurt the ESC, except if your load goes way up if the actual rpm is higher --for example, you put in "10" and it actually has "14" magnets--the actual rpm would be 40% higher than what you wanted. Just put on a smaller prop (9" for example) at first to see what happens. But like I said, I am pretty sure there are 14 magnets. You could probably pull the motor apart and simply count (see instructions in RobertC's thread), but I would just hook it up and try it.

Offline John Cralley

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #48 on: February 16, 2009, 08:11:59 AM »
Thanks Alan,

I did email the question to CC but it may be a day or two for them to reply. With the weather being what it is I will not be flying for a while anyway. I think I will just install the disk (al la your idea) and run the motor with 14 magnets designated as the pole count. The tachometer should tell me if I have it right. I guess it would better to enter too many "poles" rather than too few.   S?P

I will report back what CC has to say if and when they get back to me.
John Cralley
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Offline John Cralley

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Re: "35" size motor selections
« Reply #49 on: February 16, 2009, 10:08:39 AM »
Castle Creations responded quickly but did not answer all of my questions. Here is the reply:

"Correct. If you put in the wrong # of poles your ESC will not run the motor at the correct rpms. Your ESC will not run at the rpms you list in set rpm. Use the pole counter at the bottom of the motor page to find out how many poles your motor has."

They just want you to use the "calculator" they have set up.

Meanwhile I tried my motor with a "disk" divided into quarters alternating black and white. Strange but my tachometer reads 5010 rpm when the ESC is set for 10000. Just about 1/2 of the expected rpm. Then again maybe the wide target of 1/4 of the disk is messing with the tachometer and it is only reading 1/2 half of the patches. Humm, I will just do what Alan suggests and mount a small prop and try again. However I have no time to do that right now.
John Cralley
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