Hi, Mo
Yes, I mounted the tank behind the engine - as I recall, I notched the lead edge a bit.
The SAITO 30 can handle a wide variety of props. I've run everything from a 9-4 to a 10-6.
For all-around use, a Master Airscrew 9-6 is fine.
Here is what I wrote, a few years back:
I've owned and flown quite a few 4 stroke engines over the past twenty-five or so years and would like to offer some information I've gathered over the years. I have a standard treatment for all the 4S engines I buy and use.
If it's a used engine, I take off the backplate, plug and valve cover(s). I then flush it thoroughly with alcohol to remove any debris or lube that may have gotten inside. Blow out as much of the alcohol as possible with compressed air. After checking/setting the valve lash, drizzle oil (I use Windsor Lube Aerospace oil) over the valves and rocker arms, insuring that it flows down into the push rod tubes. Replace the valve covers. Put about a teaspoon of oil into the crankcase and replace the backplate. Cap the breather nipple and put on a prop. Turn the engine over slowly while rotating it around to insure that the oil gets to all internal parts, including the timing gears and cam.
Now, replace the plug. Insuring that the engine turns freely, mount it on a test stand. Uncap the breather and put on a long piece of tubing, as things will be messy for a few seconds of initial running. Set the needle rich and the throttle about half open and start it. After a minute or so, open it up and run it for a few minutes. Play with the throttle position and needle valve settings until you're comfortable with it. It should be ready to fly at this point.
When I set up a new engine, I use the same procedure but I do not remove the backplate or perform the alcohol flush. I did this initially but never found any debris in a new engine. I squirt oil into the breather nipple and insure that the inside is totally oiled.
ALWAYS check the valves clearances on both new and used engines. I have removed valve covers on brand new engines and found not only zero clearance but the rockers totally dry. This bit of extra time spent will insure that all parts are properly lubricated during the all-important initial running. Regarding throttle and needle valve settings, follow the instructions for a new engine. After run in, check the valves and you should be all set for many seasons of flying.
Fuel: For years I ran both Powermaster 10/23 (50/50) and Brodak 10/23 (50/50), both excellent fuels. I now run Brodak fuel in ALL my engines. I have NEVER has issues with carbon accumulating on the valve stems and 10% nitro gives me adequate power for my needs. Also, the residual castor gives good protection against rust.
I have heard of people flying RC and having trouble with castor based fuel but I think it may be due to the fact that they run theirs at different throttle settings, from idle to flat out. During idle, some carbon may accumulate and not burn off. For the most part, I run mine flat out. The valves may just stay hot enough to prevent carbon deposits. Whatever, it works for me.
In closing, I should mention that most of my flying has been with the smaller engines - the .20, .26, .30 and .40 sizes. I have tested and tinkered with larger sizes including the ENYA, OS and SAITO 4S, up to the .90 but not enough to offer much helpful assistance. I believe that many people on this sight can offer assistance with the "big blocks".
If you can get your hands on an ENYA 46 4S, you might like it – it has the highest specific power of ANY 4S engine I’ve ever run.
Hope this helps.
Bob Z.
Topic: Saito 30 Black Knight (Read 5061 times)