I received my "new" engine and it's pretty nifty looking.
Best I've been able to determine, this is the immediate predecessor to the 40A.
15.2 oz with exhaust pipe and TF 11-6 Super M (the only suitable prop I have right now).

First thing: the nylon bushing extending forward of the prop driver - sure doesn't look right.  
APC counterbore might fit over it or others counterbored to fit.
I don't want to jump right in and start tearing things down, so anyone know whats going on here?

Terry

NEVER MIND - just a left over spinner bushing, slipped right off.
Better to ask and seem like a dumba** than do something that proves it.  

I downloaded the manual for this engine and see that it says:
"Rocker arm and valve should be lubricated as occasion demands upon inspection".
Not very exact - how often is inspection warranted?
Is there no or little internal lube?

Also, valve lash is to be adjusted when over .004", is .004" best?

Doesn't look like this carb is amenable to the simple screw-in mod for c/l.

Terry

.004 not best. .003 max .002 min.

Fellers, this may become a chore, as I know nothing about this or other 4 strokes fro models.
I checked valve lash (.003"), high needle 3 turns out, throttle ~1/2 and attempted (vertical bench mount) to fire the .40 today and couldn't get even a pop.
Now I know that the 3 magic ingredients to starting an engine are fuel, compression and ignition (in the proper sequence and quantity).
I mixed a fresh batch of 15/65/20, had good color on the plug and seeming good hand-flip compression, 'til I spun it a bit.
I'm wondering if it has a worn ring and am checking with Frank to see if he still has one.

I don't have any service info covering tear-down procedure.
If I need to replace the ring (N.B.: it has a one-piece head/cylinder) is it just a matter of pulling intake, exhaust and then the cylinder from the piston w/o disturbing the valve assy (other than the pushrods, of course) or is it going to be more complicated?

Any assistance will be much appreciated.

Terry

...it was the wrist pin sticking in the piston or rod. ... So make double sure it spins very free!

Are you saying the wristpin should spin freely, Dane?

If so, thanks for the heads-up but I still need to know the cylinder removal procedure.

Terry

Unfortunately, Steve, they have manuals for current engines only.
Online, I found and downloaded the manual for my earlier engine, but it has no exploded diagram and little maintenance information.

Terry

Oh, yes. You will have to choke that engine when mounted upright. Good call. Something i didn't think about, but just automatically do. My os 30fs is kinda picky on how it's choked also

I'm still somewhere on the learning curve with it but I can start it by hand now.
Running Morgan 15% w/added oil it turns an 11-6 TF Super M to ~8600, 2-300 low compared to other (new) .40 4-Ss on Sceptreflight.
Any thoughts on what prop/rpm would be suitable for it on an ARF Cardinal or Pathfinder?

Terry

Yes, Dane, my "standard" fuel, Morgan 15/68/17 (70 synth/30 castor) with added 50/50 Klotz/castor.
For 2-S I doctor to various oil %s.
Sounds like I might need a bit more prop.

Terry

Thanks for the info, Bob, I suspected a full teardown wasn't necessary.
On the (highly likely) assumption that the issue is my *ignernts* rather than a worn ring, I won't tear it down yet.

F Anyone Who Needs It's I, I found somewhere Saito's write-up on timing procedure.

Terry