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Design => Engineering board => Topic started by: Bill Brown on December 30, 2010, 02:28:49 PM
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???Building a Nobler from Brodak plans. How do I build adjustable lead outs?
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???Building a Nobler from Brodak plans. How do I build adjustable lead outs?
Hi Bill,
First, WELCOME to the Stunt Hanger!
Second, if I read your question correctly, the easiest thing to do is buy an adj. lead out guide from Brodak. it is show installed, on the Brodak plans, correct? The Instruction Book and laser cut ribs are also available from Brodak, IIRC, since the plans are for the Brodak kit.
Big Bear
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You google on "adjustable lead out", and you find an article like this one:
http://www.aeromaniacs.com/Adjleadouts.htm
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The only thing to add to the scratch built Adj. lead out is to line the top and bottom of the cut out in the wing tip with 1/64" ply. It keeps the lines from cutting into the balsa.
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The only thing to add to the scratch built Adj. lead out is to line the top and bottom of the cut out in the wing tip with 1/64" ply. It keeps the lines from cutting into the balsa.
Going back over some old posts and found this great tip! The 1/64th" ply really keeps the wing tip looking good for years.
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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I didn't even know they made such a thing as 1/64" ply. I've been looking for 1/32" ply around Columbia and can't find that.
I did finally find a 1/32" balsa sheet. And of course a driving rain with 25mph wind blew in while I was in the store.
Rusty
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National Balsa.
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Thanks, Chev.
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The ribs need relieved to allow the controls to pass (most likely). Take the adjustable lead out guide and either directly on the plan, or using a overlay of tissue paper taped to the plan (if you don't want to write on the plan) apply the lead out spacings at the forward most and rearward most desired positions. Now connect the forward lead out at both positions to the bell crank, and the rear lead out to the other end of the bell crank, and have fun removing material so the lead outs don't foul the ribs (or is it the ribs foul the lead outs...).
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=32889.msg334991#msg334991
Phil
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You can always build the inboard tip like mine. there is a very slight increase in weight over the adjustable guide attached to the tip rib but the adjuster is much closer to the wing tip and the opening is lined automatically. In any case, this inboard tip is slightly lighter than a sheet outboard tip and tip weight box.
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Hey Rusty, Aircraft Spruce has 1/64" ply wood also, but it ain't cheeeep...
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Many top stunt fliers make a slot in the inboard tip connecting holes that are a snug fit for an eyelet that is installed on each leadout. These eyelets sometimes need to be tightened up, for which they use a smidgen of paper towel. The nice thing about it is that it's lighter, cheaper, and you can get 1/4" or so adjustments reliably. The bad thing is that the adjustments are not infinite, and occasionally, the eyelets may fall out, leaving you with no clue as to where to return them unless you keep a logbook with such details. Not a bad habit to get into, if you read the nice article in the latest SN by Bruce Perry. H^^ Steve