Its important on a box / flat sided fuse , not to have it to narrow at the tailplane .
A good 3/4 at the leading edge , maybe an inch . Aft of the hinge ( at ) it can taper in more .
The ' box ' type fuse can still form a cone. A Square one ! .
its a pity it isnt the underside .

Probly the most important thingo is the vertical stabaliser , for consistant line tension.
Mr Compostellas ' Airfoiled ' set up is pretty hot , Almost symetrical Finwith outside of rudder flat .
Though he uses a curve on the inside face .
You can see on this Spitfire underside view the aft fuse. taper set up . This gives a broad Stabilizer Mount and better ?? torsional ridgidity ,
Wing to stab . Or keeps the Flying Surfaces true !

You need to glue the things togeter fairly well if your flying in good sailing weather , an Silk is good on an I beam type , as
you can put the fuse over your knee and pull the tips up and down a few inchs without breaking it . A D tube might snap
if you test the beam strength that way .
Heres a PLANK Spit Fuse , the formers and plank edges are beveled .

I started one of these SQUARE ( split at shoulder hight , built inverted ) then cut the lower rear edge and Beveled formers under
to a std. angle through . so its pretty simple . After youve figured it out on paper . And That ones Not Fat aft , a straight side
to sternpost . Was good in the wind , to twang .018 laystrate in square bottoms , and pulled like Eck in 20 Knots, downwind/ manouvreing.