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Author Topic: McCoy 40 props  (Read 728 times)

Offline Jim Kraft

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McCoy 40 props
« on: August 17, 2007, 08:49:06 PM »
I have 2 McCoy 40's that I have been running for awhile, and they both run about the same. Just wondering what you all use for props. I started out with a 10-5 APC and my Magician was to fast where the engine wanted to run. If I don't set it lean enough, it burps pretty bad on transitions to outsides, this still in a steady 4 stroke run. Next I went to a 11-5 APC and it was better but still to fast. I finally went to a 12-6 APC cut down to 11", and this prop is working better than anything I have tried so far. It loads the engine enough that I can set the needle fairly rich, but the engine doesn't burp, and the speed is very managable. The engine seems to really like this prop and just breaks a little in manuevers, but does most of the pattern in a solid 4 stroke. If I had the prop clearance I think I would try a full 12-6 or maybe a 12-5. I just did not think these old tech. motors would pull props this big. I even tried a Rev-Up 11-7&1/2 cut down to 10, and that is when I found that it liked to be loaded with a big prop. Anybody else have this experiance with McCoy 40's?
Jim Kraft

Offline L0U CRANE

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Re: McCoy 40 props
« Reply #1 on: August 17, 2007, 10:51:26 PM »
Jim,

I presume these McCoy 40s are the grey case, Dykes ring, black head Series 21s?

If so, ol' buddy Wild Bill had a lot to do with their development...

He does nice work...

If these engines show a good torque output at modest RPM, your prop testing would fit very nicely. As baffle piston, moderate timed engines, they should do their best around torque peak -wherever that may happen to be. Torque peak also usually indicates where the 'flows' through the interior are at optimum. Moderate sleeve and shaft timing sets that.

His Series 21s were amazing engines! With smaller prop loads, they did well in Slow Rat type racing - just bring a cup of ice water to the pitting... Aside from the "Fisher Body" styling adding a few unnecessary ounces, they also were effective stunt engines for those who could keep the Dykes rings in good shape - you seem to have found a solution by running in thrumming 4-cycle except for maneuver loads.

I have a few of these lying around, and with your experiences as inspiration, may try them again...

Thanks!
\BEST\LOU

Offline Jim Kraft

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Re: McCoy 40 props
« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2007, 05:24:48 AM »
Lou; These are both old stock Red Head 40's. Sorry I forgot to mention that. Magician weighs about 37 OZ. and is built stock with moveable flaps. Fuel is Sig 5% nitro, 25% all castor, with added castor to bring it up to 28%. Also running a uniflow tank, but with both vents open to make it standard vent. It seems to run best that way with just a little speedup at the end.
Jim Kraft

Offline L0U CRANE

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Re: McCoy 40 props
« Reply #3 on: August 18, 2007, 11:24:19 AM »
Jim,

There probably isn't much difference in the operating guts in terms of engine design and layout. The Dykes ring, of course, and the cooling fins machined into the cylinder are visible differences, but timing, porting etc., I think were pretty close. Both capable of fine stunt use. The trick is most likely ample castor. I don't think very many of us did that way back when, and engines ate themselves up in a hurry on inadequate oil.

Shoulda known...

\BEST\LOU

Offline Jim Kraft

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Re: McCoy 40 props
« Reply #4 on: August 18, 2007, 12:39:00 PM »
I should have had a clue when John Wright mentioned he was flying his Magician with a McCoy 40 with a 10-8 Rev-up prop so as to quiet it down for a park flyer. He related that it worked just fine, was much quieter, and the engine did not seem to care one bit. These McCoy's are luggers.
Jim Kraft


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