Hi all. I had wanted for a while now a diesel engine, and a friend at work brought one for me. He acquired it somewhere and gave it to me to use. It is gummed up good. There are no markings and was picked up from him in an estate and the owner did not know anything about it. So, I was just looking for some help in identifying it and what type of prop to use on it. There are no markings other than 100 stamped on the rear crankcase plug. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This has also been posted on another forum and has been said to be a P.A.W. engine.  So, now I would like to ask what type of plane would be suited for this engine.  Preferebly something easy, profile maybe?  As well, what prop would also be suited to this.  Thank you.

Can I please ask what prop you use on yours.  I have mainly Master Airscrew props available locally.  APC is the other type I am aware of at the local hobby shops.  Thank you.

Thank you for the tip of putting it in the jar of kerosene.  I will do that hopefully tomorrow after work.  I had since last post disassemble it, sort of.  I had removed the prop nut, needle and spraybar and backplate, and the head screw.  I will as said earlier put it in kerosene hopefully tomorrow.  If not, I will wait till Monday after the long weekend, unless sitting in all weekend wont hurt it?  Is it hard to remove the head assembly to clean as well, or is it best to leave it together.  I had removed the screws but the head assembly did not come off.  I tried carefully by hand and NO tools.  Anyways thanks for the tips and links again.

Chancey, it's a PAW 100, which as Robert says, is an 060.   The best prop I've found for these is an APC 7x3, but you could try anything in the range of about 6x4 to 8x4.

I think you're wise not to remove the head, but seeing as you've got the backplate off, it'd be a really good idea to check that the conrod is moving freely on the wristpin.  If you're still having trouble freeing it all up after soaking it in kero, a bit of acetone works wonders (although you need a bit of movement in it first).

I would just like to know how to tell if the head is working properly or not.

The contrapiston may well be gummed in place, but just winding it in a very small amount should free it.  Don't be concerned if it doesn't blow back - it'll likely want some fuel in there before that happens.  With any luck the contrapiston will have been left in a decent running setting, so it's best to avoid messing about with it if you can resist the temptation.

You asked about models for it.  Anything that works with a Norvel 061 would be fine, or you could design your own simple profile model with a built-up wing of about 32"-35".  RSM do a couple of nice 1/2A kits as well.

Good luck with it!

Steve

Are there any figures stamped in the backplate?

If the contra piston is a bit stiff just take a heat gun and warm the head, let it heat soak and reheat then it should be easy to use the compression screw to move it. Fuel and run infor you could get from DOCTOR DIESEL Eric Clutton, 913 Cedar Lane, Tullahoma TN. 37388, USA PHONE: 1-931-455-2256.

Best,        DennisT

Chris, it's very likely that it doesn't have a ballrace. The 06 that replaced the 100 has a single race as standard, but the 100 didn't.  I believe there were some 100BRs, but you'd expect them to have 'BR' stamped on one of the mounting lugs.

Unverified, but I've been told that Eric Clutton no longer sells diesel fuel.
In any case, kerosene (or a scented "lamp oil" if you prefer), castor oil and ether are the components.
K-1 kero is available from many sources, including sevice stations.
Klotz castor oil is available from most hobby shops selling glow fuel and many motorcycle shops (for 2-stroke cycle engines); in a pinch, in 2-6 oz bottles at 'most any pharmacy.
Ether can be a bit problematic - John Deere Starting fluid is the best OTC source, containing the highest % ether, but any ether-based starting fluid should do. Punch a hole at the base of the can, pour into a dark glass container with a good sealing lid.

Ratios aren't super critical - in your (modern) engine 25% oil, 30-33% ether, balance kero should do just fine.
1-2% amyl nitrate/nitrite or other compounds are commonly added as oxidizers - perhaps worthwhile but very difficult to get and certainly not necessary.

Diesels can be a bit tricky to start initially, but once the needle/compression settings are found they're usually more easily started than glow engines - and no igniter needed.
And once you've learned on this one, any other should be a piece of cake for you.  

best of luck with it,

Terry