stunthanger.com
Engine basics => Engine set up tips => Topic started by: Air Ministry . on December 17, 2016, 11:52:15 PM
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7sR7c1IiQk
probly to late ? He speaks of ' cutting it apart ' .
perhaps someone could put him right , or snaffle it .
u tube registered types could chime in , there .
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I posted the following:
"Jared, It's months later, so you probably already figured it out. But if not, try this:
The conrod and wristpin are probably stuck together with gummed castor. Wrap it in a rag and gently clamp it upside down in a vice. Fill the inside of the piston with wd40 and let it sit for a while. Take an allen key and use it to try and pull the rod loose. Work it back and forth. If it won't come, use a heat gun and keep trying, and it'll finally loosen up and slide off.
Rusty"
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common problem Do a search on here "super tigre wrist pin" lots of answers
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common problem Do a search on here "super tigre wrist pin" lots of answers
Better yet, type this into google:
"super tigre wrist pin stuck site:stunthanger.com"
Here is the list of results I got from doing that:
https://www.google.com/search?q=super+tigre+wrist+pin&rlz=1C1CHZL_enUS682US682&oq=super+tigre+wrist+pin&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i64&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#safe=off&q=super+tigre+wrist+pin+stuck+site:stunthanger.com
Any links you follow might have "wap2" as a suffix in the URL bar; highlight and delete "wap2", then press enter and you'll get the whole original thread.
Rusty
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Some times the pin will not come out. Several have written this up before so I am not taking credit for it.
Do not remove the sleeve completely. Move it high enough so the pin will clear it. Drill a hole in the front of the case opposite the exit hole on the back of the case and use a drift punch and drive the pin out. There is no need to fill the drilled hole as it will not leak. I saw this on a ST/46 back in the 1970's when rebuilding a motor. I thought about it for a few minutes and realized what the hole was for. Good idea that I use a few times over the years.
I will look and see if I have a drilled case and take a picture of it.
Ed
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So IT WAS YOU thats been at one of my . 46's ! ( anyone want a cheap 21/46 ? :()
(http://www.channypicture.com/pic/Uploadfile/6/SKU044263/CF2303CECD13031363BE13CC3343538303CA2FC9A043.JPG)
Ive found with engines stored from the Jurasic Period , periodically boiling And C R C ing them , say four times over a fortnite MINIMUM
and ' a positive disposition ' afterward , they will disassemble ( almost ) unharmed IF YOUR CAREFULL .
A Leather Strap on a stick to rotate a iron fin sleeve possably safest . The Easy Outs should pull a gudgeon , after the GUNK set has been SOFTENED ,
Rotateing it first. Carefully . Like You Say , the liner bottom just over the pin , will suport the piston , whilst you do your worst . Being Carefull of the ring .
The HEAT CYCLES seem to be the trick , for the penetration of whatever , and TIME to soften whatevered baked / solidified Castor Oil . :(
The Query was just as one of these Californians seemed stuck ( :## ) for a cure . ( not ME on U Tube ) .
Best pulling the Gugeon / Wrist pin - but usually ?? Ridges of ' coked castor ' & or Corrosion on the pin makes it awkward to start moving . Thanks for the hits . ;D
Think its a bit excessive drilling it , personally , But you can Helicoil a V W Bug head by cutting a flap in the inner fender , after removing a wheel , if you havnt time to pull the engine . VD~