Hi Craig;
Going from memory, since it's been a while since I have read one of his instruction sheets, you start with all castor fuel with 22% to 25% oil content and 5% nitro will do fine. For a prop a 12-4 would give you something to flip it over with and not add much load. A 6 ounce tank will provide along enough run. No muffler. Use a hot type glow plug. Start engine and set it to a high 4 stroke setting and observe what the exhaust looks like. You can do this by just letting the exhaust hit the end of a clean paint stirring stick or your hand if you are careful, and you will probably see some black stuff in it, and make a note about how much. Let the engine cool and run another tank and observe again. Tom would set the ring gap pretty tight, so don't push the RPM up too much yet. Let the engine cool again and see how it feels. Look at the ring through the exhaust and see if you see the top of the ring showing any signs of seating, like getting shiny or at least looking different than the bottom of the ring. That is how it will break in, from the top to the bottom. Run another tank. If it's starting easy, try pinching the fuel like for a fraction of a second and see how it responds. Check the exhaust again and see if it's getting more clear. You repeat all of this until the exhaust gets a lot more clear, and you can see a definite difference in how the ring/rings looks. Tom usually used Frank Bowman heat treated rings, and they can take a while to seat. But once they are seated they will last a looooooong time!! If you are feeling comfortable with what you are seeing, mount it in an airplane and make the first flights with a 13-5 prop. Just fly round and round with climbing and diving, maybe a loop or two and see how it responds. You can have the muffler on for flight testing. If all goes OK, the next thing is the pattern and have some fun! Use your beak in fuel until you have run the engine at least a dozen times in a model and are happy with it. Then you can switch t something else. I generally run my ST.60s and ST.51s on SIG Champion fuel with 10% nitro and it's half castor and half Klotz synthetic. This usually leave a VERY generous deposit of oil n the bottom of the model to help you keep the paper towel people in business, and the synthetic oil helps keep things from varnishing up. I have been running ST.51' like this since they were introduced in 1994 a nd out of the 3 or 4 I have in service with significant flight time, I have yet to feel the need that any needs a new ring yet, and the engines do not lock up after sitting a long time from the oil congealing. If you have some similar type of fuel down under, try that. If you run all castor all the time, just flush the engine from time t time with some air tool oil or automatic transmission fluid to displace the excess castor and leave the fresh oil in it's place. This al works well for me.
Good luck and have fun!!
Dan McEntee