I ran across a TT .15 that was included with an ARF motor glider that sat in the garage mezzanine for about 15 years.
It was SO tight I had to use a Sullivan starter and it still took over 10 minutes to get it to fire and 5 more untill it ran somewhat reliably.
5 oz of 15 % and it feels like a NIB engine!
My question is is it worth finding a venturi for it, does anyone have experience with this engine?
Or should I just drop in a little stick or something like that?

I ran across a TT .15 that was included with an ARF motor glider that sat in the garage mezzanine for about 15 years.
It was SO tight I had to use a Sullivan starter and it still took over 10 minutes to get it to fire and 5 more untill it ran somewhat reliably.
5 oz of 15 % and it feels like a NIB engine!
My question is is it worth finding a venturi for it, does anyone have experience with this engine?
Or should I just drop in a little stick or something like that?

   If you didn't grind it into a pulp with the starter and want to fly it on a model, lock the throttle with it closed at about 3/4 throttle and then set the needle from there. This will simulate the choke area of a venturi with a spray bar, and draw fuel better. You may want to experiment with how much to open it or close it.  As stated, free up any engine that is stuck or gummy first before trying to run it. The rods are more fragile than you may think they are, and some times really hard to find a replacement for. Just some heat from a heat gun or soaking in an oven at 150 degrees with all plastic parts removed for about a half hour, and then some  ATF or PB-Blaster oil will wash out any old castor oil. On the first start up it may get a bit messy blowing all that stuff out, and even at this point be careful to not hydraulic lock the engine.
  Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

   If you didn't grind it into a pulp with the starter and want to fly it on a model, lock the throttle with it closed at about 3/4 throttle and then set the needle from there. This will simulate the choke area of a venturi with a spray bar, and draw fuel better. You may want to experiment with how much to open it or close it.  As stated, free up any engine that is stuck or gummy first before trying to run it. The rods are more fragile than you may think they are, and some times really hard to find a replacement for. Just some heat from a heat gun or soaking in an oven at 150 degrees with all plastic parts removed for about a half hour, and then some  ATF or PB-Blaster oil will wash out any old castor oil. On the first start up it may get a bit messy blowing all that stuff out, and even at this point be careful to not hydraulic lock the engine.
  Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

Thanks Dan,
The good news is that it was "NIB" until a few days ago and I'm still amazed at how tight it is!
I did a partial disassembly after it loosened up (only 5 oz of 15% over 3 runs) and now it feels like an un-run engine, also no unusual wear, anywhere! It's getting a venturi, remove the failure point/setup variable, and the weight savings!