I picked up an OS 60FP that looks to be in fairly decent shape. Just curious if it can be setup to run well in stunt. I was thinking maybe on my Sig Magnum?

Thanks, Matt

   It's overall size and weight are the biggest factors, otherwise you would probably be seeing them at the flying field if they were worth the effort. That is one big benefit of going to contests,  to see what kind of equipment people are using. Another reason to check out posted contest results to see if equipment specs for the winners are included, and quite frequently they are. If you are curious about a certain engine and don't ever see them listed, there is your answer.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

I am not being a wise guy by saying this but this motor has come up over and over on here, It is heavy so it needs a BIG plane to carry it's weight.
 A local guy built a nice well built LARGE stunter for one and the motor ran OK after a lot of prop changes. To big to heavy to much pull. 
Ed

From the responses here, I’ll most likely find a home for it on a sport RC plane. I got it thinking plain bearing engines were usually a good bit lighter than their ball bearing counterparts. Obviously not the case with this one!

Thanks, Matt

I was also looking for an inexpensive alternative to the majority of engines that show up in the contest listings like unobtainable Supertigres and the very expensive PAs and similar.

Matt.  I put OS .60 in the search engine and got 32 pages of hits . That’s 900 threads. Maybe 10 % are on the 60 fp.
Your question is a good one as many on here have looked at it. It works ok as far as the run goes. Evolution 60 is a better choice.
Ed🚀

Since you bring up the topic of Super Tigre engines, are the ringed .46 and ringed small case .60 really that easy to start and maintain?  Engines without rings, like the LA .46 start pretty easy.  I'm planning to campaign a Super Tigre .46 on a Stiletto, at least briefly.  I'm concerned that one bad run might cause the ring to lose temper.

    That is not the biggest issue, although you don't want to overheat it or miss the needle. What drove me (and almost everyone else) crazy was the tendency to run well one day, and not the next, for reasons undetermined.  Given that it is a Stiletto, I would think even a pretty weak but smooth engine would be OK for classic-era performance. Lots and lots of people did it in the day, it will work as well as it ever did.

    The test for a good ring is to turn it over by hand forward and backward. If it has the same strong compression in both directions, it usually runs pretty well, if it has way more compression when turned one way compared the other (usually low when turned over forward and strong when it is backwards), then, it's liable to be pretty weak.

    Start with everything stock (including the stock .156 venturi), and a 11-6 or 11.5-6 prop, use a blend fuel like SIG Champion or Powermaster "Air", or Powermaster GMA, 10 or 15%. Don't use straight castor, or more than about 22% oil. I used a K&B Idle Bar plug. Experiment with props like the 12-6 Rev-Up. If you can get second venturi, you can try drilling it out to .168 or .173. If it misfires or quits mysteriously, replace the head gasket, and if necessary, add another 0.005" or 0.008" shim, NO MORE. If you think it needs more, you are trying to solve the wrong problem. You want as much compression/power as you can possibly get.

      Brett