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Author Topic: Setting up 20FP  (Read 2169 times)

Offline Steve Hines

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Setting up 20FP
« on: August 15, 2010, 10:21:12 AM »
I putting a 20 fp on a arf flite streak, this was a rc engine, got a nv and venture from Randy. Any help on prop, lines, setup would be helpful. Just started back after 30 years.

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Setting up 20FP
« Reply #1 on: August 15, 2010, 11:44:03 AM »
HISteve,

So far, the best set up has been a 9-4 APC prop, and lines in the 58' eye to eye .015, and possibly going out to 60' eye to eye. 

Any good fuel, 5%-10% nitro and set the engine to peak and back off slightly.  Just shy of leaned out.   The 2030 muffler is the best for a great engine run.  The Brett Buck Tune Up has proven to be a great set up.  it is a stock 20FP with the above mentioned items.  This works as good as it gets.

Mongo
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Offline Brett Buck

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Re: Setting up 20FP
« Reply #2 on: August 15, 2010, 05:12:02 PM »
I putting a 20 fp on a arf flite streak, this was a rc engine, got a nv and venture from Randy. Any help on prop, lines, setup would be helpful. Just started back after 30 years.

    Bill has it right. For whatever reason, the 9-4 APC is much better than anything else we tried, at least for props you could get at a hobby shop.  And they are a mere $1.94 last time I checked. Set it by peaking it out lean on the ground, then backing off 5-6 clicks until you get a distinct drop of rpm (but not a 4-stroke! - about halfway between 4 and peaked out lean).

    The locals are using .015x60 to 62 lines. As far as setup goes the only significant issue is that you want to completely disregard the CG instructions, and start with the CG around 1-1.25" from the Leading edge. I think that the plans still show something like 3" and while that might be good for combat (since if the pilot can't tell what it's going to do next, your opponent sure won't be able to) it's hopeless for stunt. WAY too unstable. As always you want NO, repeat, NO rudder//fin offset. Put in just enough to make certain it's not inboard. The rest of the trim is standard - get the wings level, add tipweight untll it starts to hinge, then back off the last change. Set the sensitivity to that full wrist motion is on the edge of a stall.

    I prefer a two-wheel gear so you don't have to worry about it tipping over on the inside wingtip on takeoff.

  It's a perfect combination once you get it set up correctly - easily capable of winning any local Advanced contest even without appearance points if you know what you are doing.

    Brett

Offline Steve Hines

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Re: Setting up 20FP
« Reply #3 on: August 15, 2010, 05:44:55 PM »
I hate to sound stuppid, but what is a 2030 muffler, and thanks for the cg tip

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Setting up 20FP
« Reply #4 on: August 15, 2010, 05:52:49 PM »
I hate to sound stuppid, but what is a 2030 muffler, and thanks for the cg tip

Hi Steve,

Itr is a stock muffler that come with some of the FP 20s.  Out on the muffler, where it attaches to the exhaust stack, it says *2030*. 

It actually really helps control the engine run very nicely.  Brett said back in the beginning that it was just about exactly like a pipe run, and once I tried it, I agree!  Sorta like a 1/4 pipe he says.  I don't know what that is all about, but I know it works!  I have run the OS 40VF and the PAs all on pipe, and the 20FP set up like Brett says has a real close "run" to those. ;D

Bill
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James Hylton Motorsports/NASCAR/ARCA

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Offline Guy B Jr

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Re: Setting up 20FP
« Reply #5 on: August 15, 2010, 11:50:33 PM »
Brett, can I assume that the same setup will work on the 25FP? If so. what prop?










fp
Guy Blankinship

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Setting up 20FP
« Reply #6 on: August 16, 2010, 01:03:57 AM »
Brett, can I assume that the same setup will work on the 25FP? If so. what prop?
fp

Not Brett,  but we have discussed this a lot.  The OS 25FP isn't quite the same, but works fine.  No one really knows what makes the 20FP work like it does with that set up.

The 25FP can use the 9-4 or the 10-4 APC.  Same things apply as to the rest of the set up.

Big Bear
« Last Edit: August 17, 2010, 01:22:46 AM by Bill Little »
Big Bear <><

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AMA 95351 (got one of my old numbers back! ;D )

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Online kenneth cook

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Re: Setting up 20FP
« Reply #7 on: August 16, 2010, 06:03:35 PM »
       I happen to own the FP.20 which is installed on a FLite Streak. I rarely fly this plane as I fly my arf more. The arf is equipped with a LA .25 . I've seen other posts with Brett mentioning keeping the engine stock. Is the 2030 muffler built the same as the one for the FP.40 with the through bolt and cone baffle inside? Are you opening the outlet hole and also removing the baffle? It was shown to me some time ago that the outlet on the muffler have a draft angle incorporated into it. Even though the exit may appear to fairly large up inside its half the diameter. I've always tried to drill these openings out using the largest acceptable bit I could place in there until it almost cracks off. I actually purchased a Randy Smith tongue for the Fp .20 but I might just switch back to the stock. Seeing that the majority of people are using a 9x4 , I was using a 8x6. In addition are you using muffler pressure? Thanks, Ken

Offline Steve Hines

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Re: Setting up 20FP
« Reply #8 on: August 16, 2010, 07:50:18 PM »
Bret   Do you have to make a two wheel gear or does someone make it. would you put the ofset in the motor like they say. I left out the offset in the rudder.

Offline Guy B Jr

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Re: Setting up 20FP
« Reply #9 on: August 16, 2010, 11:12:34 PM »
Thanks Big Bear,
I was thinking of using either the OS25FP or OS25F, with a 2030 muffler, on a Primary Force ARF and was curious about the prop.
Guy Blankinship

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Setting up 20FP
« Reply #10 on: August 17, 2010, 01:29:27 AM »
       I happen to own the FP.20 which is installed on a FLite Streak. I rarely fly this plane as I fly my arf more. The arf is equipped with a LA .25 . I've seen other posts with Brett mentioning keeping the engine stock. Is the 2030 muffler built the same as the one for the FP.40 with the through bolt and cone baffle inside? Are you opening the outlet hole and also removing the baffle? It was shown to me some time ago that the outlet on the muffler have a draft angle incorporated into it. Even though the exit may appear to fairly large up inside its half the diameter. I've always tried to drill these openings out using the largest acceptable bit I could place in there until it almost cracks off. I actually purchased a Randy Smith tongue for the Fp .20 but I might just switch back to the stock. Seeing that the majority of people are using a 9x4 , I was using a 8x6. In addition are you using muffler pressure? Thanks, Ken

Hi Kenneth,

I have the engines down in the basement so I can't remember if the 2030 is like the FP 40 muffler, but I believe it is with the bolt holding the halves together.  It is like the 3030 muffler in looks.

Nothing done to the muffler other than bolting it on, and I wouldn't think of modifying the muffler.  The muffler seems to have a *tuned pipe effect* on the 20FP, but not so much so on the .25FP.. I have no clue as to why.  I have used the 25FP and the 25LA.  Neither have exactly the same *type* run as Brett's set up on the 20FP.  They all do give a pretty good run if set just below the engine's peak on the ground.  A steady 2 cycle.

I do usde muffler pressure to make the run consistent from start to finish with the square tank I am using.  With out pressure, the engine takes a while to cut off at the end, catching up and dying, etc.  With the pressure it cuts pretty clean.

Big Bear
Big Bear <><

Aberdeen, NC

James Hylton Motorsports/NASCAR/ARCA

AMA 95351 (got one of my old numbers back! ;D )

Trying to get by

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