a wise man told me  A little sandpaper go's a long way.  to get it out  to get it out leave the prop on ,find some gloves a propane torch and a Popsicle stick. remove the head.    heat the cylinder part of the case until Spit Will bubble on it put the Popsicle stick down the sleeve and wedge it s little bit into the exhost port turn engine over by the prop until piston touches the stick.push the stick with the piston. should push the sleeve up enough to get a hold of it and remove it

 look to see if there is any grunge on the sleeve or in the case. take some 400 W/D sand paper and clean the outside of the sleeve and the inside of the case clean with soap and water then do the same thing again with 600and clean..see if it will slide in


if u have a lathe or drill press y can make a wooden mandrel that wont hurt the sleeve and spin it while using the sand paper

There is  no  one  way to do what you are asking,  a  steel sleeve is a very different fit than a  brass   or  aluminum sleeve is.
The  HP 40 has  both  steel and  brass, the  brass sleeve can be  a slip in fit, but the  steel sleeve  needs  to be  a press fit
You also have the problem of the  ABC-Ring  that is in some  HPs    what model do you have ?

Frank,

Reason this thru. If the cylinder is made for that engine, and the parts have not been buggered up, there should be no reason any metal removal is required. Unless we are talking prehistoric engines or really crummy makes that are made with hammers and hacksaws. I've never seen an OS, Enya (limited experience here), Super Tigre, OPS, Pico, etc. that needed metal removal to reassemble--if the parts were not damaged during disassembly! I have not had the opportunity to work on an HP, but am having trouble believing they have poor tolerance control or are designed with an excessively tight shrink fit. If they do, then the following comments are even more important.

Many engines allow slight shrink fits based on their tolerancing. I suspect that there are speed guys out there that will tell you that the sleeve needs clearance to avoid distortion from the case. I wouldn't do that and I suspect that issue is better solved by a cowling that controls the heat more evenly. Most of the engines I can think of have liners too thin to be unsupported. Again, that is an opinion. If I see a speed guy consistently doing better than 80% of the record time without the engine coming apart, then I will certainly acknowledge his fit-up skills. But that ain't most of us!

Most disassembly issues come from the engine being gunked up with burned on oil, and trying to pull the liner without getting it cleaned up first. And then the unwillingness to heat soak in an oven to achieve the required differential expansion. Most clean engines come apart at 200F or so. I have had some that needed as much as 300F. This is compounded when the wrong tools or techniques are used. You need to make up a sleeve puller if the sleeve won't simply drop out after proper heat soaking.

I recently disassembled an engine that appeared to have swallowed a ring and then was "rebuilt" but without fixing the underlying damage. Anyway, it had damage to the edge of one of the ports. It was therefore more difficult to remove, even with a puller. It came out but I had to dress the deformed edge of the sleeve port and clean up the scoring on the liner. I have not test run that engine yet, but my expectations for the liner and piston are not very high.

I would also note that if this is a lapped fit engine, if you change the sleeve shrink fit to the case that you are also c hanging the piston/sleeve running fit. This also occurs with the bearings, which are generally shrink fit to the case. Better to learn how to work on the engine the way it was designed to work, than to come up with a way to alter parts so it is easy to put together but now runs like it is worn out.

All of this assumes that you are talking about an engine with a steel liner, and not an AAC, which should be true of all of the HPs as far as I know. Then again, if you are putting custom aftermarket parts into your engines, you may be encountering/creating all kinds of new issues.

Best of luck,

Dave

PS--From prior conversations here, I would say that what you called your "tuition" is going to get expensive real soon....

PPS--"Devine Intervention" on your disassembly work sounds suspiciously like a euphemism for "damage" to me.....  Hope not

       Hi all:

       Thanks for the prompt replies.
 
       I got the cylinder out after a bit of hassle.  I could describe how I did it but I fear condemnation from a few of the less adventuresome readers. Teaser, it included the use of Channel Lock pliers Lol  I did no damage to any thing but I see that the cylinder will not begin to enter the crankcase at room temperature.  I have been warned NOT to use a heat shrink fit on this engine as I will never get the cylinder out of the block again.  This idea is what prompted me to think of removing metal from the outside of the cylinder to permit a "snug" slip fit. I have been told to make up a mandrel and use a bit of abrasive cloth to open the crankcase to permit the cylinder to enter the crankcase.  I have also considered removing a bit of metal from the outside of the cylinder with abrasive cloth to aid in assembling the cylinder to the crankcase.  Any suggestions of what to do to get these parts assembled?

     In the meantime, I will await your comments and suggestions.  I will also "clean" the cylinder and crankcase to be certain that all dried oil has been removed.  I do not think that this engine has been run but there was what looked like dried, "petrified" oil between the cylinder and crankcase!!!!   The other HP .40 Silver Star that I pulled the cylinder out to replace it with a Brian Gardner P&C allowed me to just use the popsicle stick in the exhaust port and pull the cylinder out by finger strength.  The BG piston and cylinder dropped in with ease.

      Again thanks for taking the time to reply to my dilemma!

                                                                                                                                               Be well,

                                                                                                                                               Frank McCune

been reduced to a bigger tube say a inch long over the top , a washer or plate there .

A washer , something like a heavyish prop washer , the taper helps centralise , . . . but . . . may expand it . 
slightly less than the sleeve / case hole / bore diameter .

Bolt thru from top , not in C shaft area . Might need a spacer or two up top , as you go .AS IN making a puller , And AVOIDING distorting parts .

Found the paint stripper heat gun beats hot water any day .
Often once its started , C R C will wick in better .

Often its dried castor reidue GLUED it together - So needs disolving , but the solvent cant get in . 

Seen a few with pliers marks on the sleeve flange, Randy?
Ghastly, ghastly......dastardly work. And then someone expects you to fix it?

Yes  unfortunately  I have seen many dozens with plier marks, others with screw driver marks, both on the lip and in the exhaust ports.and have seen AAC engines locked up with the cylinder welded in place from trying to remove the sleeve with hard carbon build up on the  outside of the sleeve at the exhaust, this debris got into the fit between the sleeve/case, and  forced zero tolerance between the two aluminum parts, then the weld together and bot are ruined. Many 1000s of dollars  I have seen lost by people killing parts by doing things that hurt the motor they are trying to help.
Other things are people sanding , honing, grinding fits too large or too open, I see this mostly on Super Tiger and  HP  engines.
Some factories make mistakes with this too, example  I have seen many Magnum engines  with hard press fits in some of their engines, You can assemble them this way, but it makes it very very hard  to take them back apart

Randy

    Hi Randy et. al:

    When I used the Channel Locks, I placed NO "squeeze" on the cylinder! I used them a fixture to hold the cylinder without any force on the cylinder.  When the case was heated, I tapped the case away from the cylinder with a very light tap on a wooden dowel inserted in the bore of the cylinder and resting on the bottom of the case.  No damage or marking on the lip of the cylinder was done.

    Oh yes, there was no way that a wooden dowel would refrain from splitting when I attempted to tap the cylinder out of the case.  I could only move cylinder to a point to where the cylinder skirt was even with the channel in the case.  I then used a bit of heat and a dowel to tap the case away from the cylinder.  I tried a heat gun, oven at 300F and a propane torch.  Don't fret, the propane torch only reaches about 2100 F but has to be used very wisely!!!!  I used smoke from ATF as a temperature guide to give me a rough indication as to how much heat was in the case.  I did not have any temperature indicating crayons so I had to resort to culinary experience.  It must have been done correctly as all the parts fit back together perfectly.  Sometimes one gets lucky. Lol

    Now, for the assembly.  How tight should the cylinder fit into the case?  Is it  light interference fit? If so, how do I accomplish this?  Randy. you warned me NOT shrink fit these engines together as I would never get them apart again.  Due to the fact that the cylinder in the other Silver Star was just a push fit, perhaps there may be a bit of grunge on both the cylinder and the case.  I may clean these parts to where they are clean and try again.  In the past, I fitted the engine with a light interference fit by placing cylinder in the freezer and the case in the oven  prior to fitting them into the engine. This gave a brief time to align the ports with the cutouts in the case.  Heating the two parts permitted easy disassembly. 

      As things stand now, there is no way that the cylinder is going to enter the case!!!

      Suggestions and/or suggestions???

                                                                                                                                          Tia,

                                                                                                                                          Frank McCune

    How the cylinder fits is a function of what the materials are. There are some steel liner engines that need a tight fit against the aluminum crank case, so that you can get proper heat transfer for proper cooling. There have been lots of Super Tigres ruined by people sanding the cylinders for a slip fit, and then they never run right again.Next time you have some engines of different types apart, look and see the difference between the brass/chrome cylinders and the iron cylinders. Different materials have different rates of expansion and contraction.. I had a ST.46 once that I got from somewhere, and could not get it to run, like it wouldn't draw fuel. I finally took a real good look at the crank case, and the bottom was cracked, with what looked like vise jaw marks on it! The previous owner had obviously used a vise to push the cylinder liner in. This was before the internet, so I had to make a few phone calls to find out the correct procedure (Thank Tom Lay!, pulled the engine back apart, welded up the cracks, re-assembled and that engine ran in a Chipmunk for many years after that. Tom wasn't too sure I would get away with welding the case, but if it was broken already, what did I have to lose! I really try to resist taking any engine apart unless it's absolutely necessary. Just try to take care of them and feed them right and they tend to last a long time.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

     Up date on HP .40 cylinder R&R.

     I took a few minutes to clean all of the crud and corruption from the outside of the cylinder and the inside of the case and that appeared to solve the problem of R&R.  Now to pull the cylinder, one only has to heat the case and cylinder to 300 degrees F and it slides in and outs very easily.  One must hurry as a shrink fit happens very quickly. 

                                                                                      Thanks for all of the replies,

                                                                                      Frank