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Author Topic: Uniflow and pressure  (Read 1488 times)

Offline Nova Joe

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Uniflow and pressure
« on: March 16, 2019, 12:36:54 PM »
I’m relatively new to control line as the last time I flew CL was around 1972.  Fox and maybe OS Max 35 on Magician or Flitestreak. I do recall inconsistencies in runs particularly inverted.

Have been flying RC and have alway used exhaust pressure to fuel tank. Two lines from tank, one to carb and one to exhaust.  Worked pretty well. Getting back to CL, I hear about Uniflow.  Researching on Stunthangar and it sounds like different ideas on where the Uniflow tube should go in the tank. Or maybe I’m just not reading correctly.

My question is this—can exhaust pressure be used instead of a normal vent to atmospheric?  Or can I simply use two lines like I did with RC, one to Venturi and one to exhaust tap?

If this has been previously covered, my apologies. I’ve looked but haven’t been able to locate anything.
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Offline Brett Buck

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Re: Uniflow and pressure
« Reply #1 on: March 16, 2019, 01:12:01 PM »
I’m relatively new to control line as the last time I flew CL was around 1972.  Fox and maybe OS Max 35 on Magician or Flitestreak. I do recall inconsistencies in runs particularly inverted.

Have been flying RC and have alway used exhaust pressure to fuel tank. Two lines from tank, one to carb and one to exhaust.  Worked pretty well. Getting back to CL, I hear about Uniflow.  Researching on Stunthangar and it sounds like different ideas on where the Uniflow tube should go in the tank. Or maybe I’m just not reading correctly.

My question is this—can exhaust pressure be used instead of a normal vent to atmospheric?  Or can I simply use two lines like I did with RC, one to Venturi and one to exhaust tap?

If this has been previously covered, my apologies. I’ve looked but haven’t been able to locate anything.

    The end of the uniflow vent should terminate at the far outboard edge of the tank - on the wedge side of the tank, same as the pickup. There is no other place that it should go, contrary information is incorrect.   And to start, right in the middle, vertically. Same position as the fuel pickup line. Fore/aft, you need some distance from the end of the fuel pickup. Mine are about 1/16" apart, but most people use much more, like 1/2".

   The effect of uniflow is to hold the pressure at the outboard edge of the tank constant as the fuel runs out, it doesn't change through the flight as the result of the fuel level. The pressure it holds constant is the pressure at the air inlet end. This can be ram air, "static" air (vent with no net pressure), or muffler pressure.

     You want a third line coming from the tank, going to the front/top/inboard edge of the tank. This is the overflow. For uniflow operation, you open the overflow, fill through the uniflow vent, the overflow releases the air from the tank until it is full, then fuel comes out. You then plug the overflow. With the uniflow and pickup tubes right next to each other, you will have all sorts of problems filling through the uniflow tube, because the fuel will want to come out the pickup, same if you remove the fuel line to the engine to fill it (NOT RECOMMENDED!) for every flight.

     To function as an overflow, the tube only has to be at the top of the tank. But you want it inboard and the front, because if it is, you can switch from uniflow to suction and back with the same tank To run it as a suction tank, you can fill normally, but plug the uniflow and leave the overflow open. Then the tank will not hold the pressure constant, but instead lean out as the fuel runs down.

   That gives you 4 basic configurations to try:

    Suction and no pressure
    Suction with pressure
    Uniflow with no pressure
    Uniflow with pressure

   Of those, the first three are very reliably predictable. Suction with no pressure leans out a lot, suction with pressure leans out a little bit, uniflow with no pressure runs at a constant setting. Uniflow with no pressure nominally runs at a constant setting, just at a higher feed pressure than an open vent. But sometimes, it has some other effect, usually, leaning out about halfway through the flight, but sometimes richening up (as the fuel gets heated and thus thinner). It's great when it works, and I have some configurations where that worked best, but it is also prone to the most unexpected events.
   
     I almost always run uniflow with an open vent, either ram air or "neutral" pressure. I don't want my engine speeding up throughout the flight. But I do have one system with suction with muffler pressure (muffler pressure line to overflow, capping the uniflow).

     Brett

p.s. Interesting point about ram air pressure. At stunt speeds (say, 80 feet/second or 55 mph), the ram air pressure is only about .05 psi. That doesn't sound like much, but it's definitely detectable. But the pressure change, beginning to end,  from running suction on a 2" tank is only .07 psi. We are talking about tiny ranges of pressures, and they clearly matter.

Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Uniflow and pressure
« Reply #2 on: March 16, 2019, 04:16:29 PM »
Just a mite to add to what Brett said:  Some engines (modern Schnuerle engines, in my experiene) run pretty darned good on a plain old (not uniflow) clunk tank with pressure.  I'm pretty sure that the pressure plus running our engines way richer than would be run for RC, so that they distinctly speed up when leaned out, tends to regulate the engine speed somewhat.

For a fun knock-around profile (like the one that I ended up flying for two years in Expert, because I build really slowly), a modern Schnuerle engine plus a Sullivan or DuBro clunk tank works just fine.
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Online Ken Culbertson

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Re: Uniflow and pressure
« Reply #3 on: March 16, 2019, 05:07:08 PM »
Just a mite to add to what Brett said:  Some engines (modern Schnuerle engines, in my experiene) run pretty darned good on a plain old (not uniflow) clunk tank with pressure.  I'm pretty sure that the pressure plus running our engines way richer than would be run for RC, so that they distinctly speed up when leaned out, tends to regulate the engine speed somewhat.

For a fun knock-around profile (like the one that I ended up flying for two years in Expert, because I build really slowly), a modern Schnuerle engine plus a Sullivan or DuBro clunk tank works just fine.
Ditto's.
My OS46LA runs beautifully on a simple DuBro clunk with pressure and no uniflow.  I have had nothing but trouble using uniflow on a clunk.

Ken
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Offline Glen Wearden

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Re: Uniflow and pressure
« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2019, 05:54:38 PM »
To me, a card carrying simpleton, Hayes tanks work great; super simple, no leaks.  I was afraid Hayes was out of business, but MECOA is selling them.

Glen Wearden
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Offline Brett Buck

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Re: Uniflow and pressure
« Reply #5 on: March 16, 2019, 08:26:40 PM »
Ditto's.
My OS46LA runs beautifully on a simple DuBro clunk with pressure and no uniflow.  I have had nothing but trouble using uniflow on a clunk.

Ken

   What were you using for your uniflow vent?  If you are using a clunk tank, I recommend a rigid vent tube. All the variants (dual-clunk, vent soldered to clunk, sliding-fit-tube on clunk, etc. can be made to work, but it's much more difficult.

     Brett

Offline Target

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Re: Uniflow and pressure
« Reply #6 on: March 16, 2019, 08:48:10 PM »
I'm using uniflow tanks, set up nearly exactly as Brett describes, but to simplify my process and because I'm lazy, I have a check valve on the overflow line.
I just fuel through the uniflow, and away I go (rhyme unintended, I swear).
I have been told that the check valves sometimes can fail, so I carry a spare and also a plug, but haven't had to ever use either since adding the check valve.
Works great for me so far.

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Online Ken Culbertson

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Re: Uniflow and pressure
« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2019, 10:51:39 PM »
   What were you using for your uniflow vent?  If you are using a clunk tank, I recommend a rigid vent tube. All the variants (dual-clunk, vent soldered to clunk, sliding-fit-tube on clunk, etc. can be made to work, but it's much more difficult.

     Brett
I have tried the dual and soldered versions.  I have also tried running a fixed tube to just in front of the pickup clunk along the side.  All were a pain in the A$$ and didn't give me any better engine run than simple muffler pressure.

Ken
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Offline Brett Buck

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Re: Uniflow and pressure
« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2019, 12:58:01 AM »
I have tried the dual and soldered versions.  I have also tried running a fixed tube to just in front of the pickup clunk along the side.  All were a pain in the A$$ and didn't give me any better engine run than simple muffler pressure.

Ken

   That's interesting. I don't usually run clunk tanks, either, but the only problem I ever had with clunk uniflow with a rigid vent was that the vent moved around, and I solved  it by soldering a brass strip from one tube to the vent tube, to hold it in place. That, and it was impossible to cut off reliably.

    Just to be entirely clear, I now run hard tanks with conventional uniflow venting, and a moderate taper from front to back. The only thing even a little unusual is that I end the uniflow vent about 1/4"-3/8" from the end, soldered exactly down the center of the wedge, and then solder the pickup over the top, putting a little crook in the end to get it exactly in the rear corner of the wedge. The end of the pickup tube is probably 1/8" or less from the uniflow vent.

      Brett

p.s. I would guess I am probably the last horse across the finish line on this bit of advice, but, of course, Sullivan ProFlex fuel like seems ideal for use in a clunk tank. It's *much* more flexible than silicone, and is reported to be much more durable. Regular silicone tubing, like Prather, tends to be a bit on the stiff side, and  you have to fiddle around with it to get the natural curve aimed the right direction. That's why they still include the old skinny 1st generation silicone tubing with the tank.

 

Online Ken Culbertson

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Re: Uniflow and pressure
« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2019, 07:52:56 AM »
   That's interesting. I don't usually run clunk tanks, either, but the only problem I ever had with clunk uniflow with a rigid vent was that the vent moved around, and I solved  it by soldering a brass strip from one tube to the vent tube, to hold it in place. That, and it was impossible to cut off reliably.

    Just to be entirely clear, I now run hard tanks with conventional uniflow venting, and a moderate taper from front to back. The only thing even a little unusual is that I end the uniflow vent about 1/4"-3/8" from the end, soldered exactly down the center of the wedge, and then solder the pickup over the top, putting a little crook in the end to get it exactly in the rear corner of the wedge. The end of the pickup tube is probably 1/8" or less from the uniflow vent.

      Brett

p.s. I would guess I am probably the last horse across the finish line on this bit of advice, but, of course, Sullivan ProFlex fuel like seems ideal for use in a clunk tank. It's *much* more flexible than silicone, and is reported to be much more durable. Regular silicone tubing, like Prather, tends to be a bit on the stiff side, and  you have to fiddle around with it to get the natural curve aimed the right direction. That's why they still include the old skinny 1st generation silicone tubing with the tank.
That is a good idea on tin tanks.  I only use clunks now on profiles.  I have tried them on full body but always ended up regretting it.  Never thought of reversing the tubes that way.  Amen on the tubing.  I must have spent an hour trying to get that perfect piece of silicone to bend enough.  Even the thin stuff they sell around here doesn't flex enough.  Thanks for the tip.  This issue alone was enough to make me not want to use them again in a full body where you can't help wondering if that tube moved when you put the tank back in the plane! ~^

Ken
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Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: Uniflow and pressure
« Reply #10 on: March 19, 2019, 06:21:53 PM »
Clunk tanks do not respond well to the model being stored or transported "nose down", according to Dirty Dan. His got stuck at the front of the tank and didn't work well at all until this was noticed.

Speaking of DD, I spoke with him via telephone this past Sunday. He's having vision troubles from cataracts and a detached retina, but has hopes of his vision improving soon. Can't drive at this point, so the Hated Honda remains parked. Let's all wish him well!  y1 Steve

 
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