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Author Topic: OS .46 LA Screws  (Read 2253 times)

Offline Peter Nevai

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OS .46 LA Screws
« on: January 12, 2021, 09:14:07 PM »
So I am retrofitting the stock plastic backplate on a NIB LA .46 and as the replacement backplate is a nice shiny turned aluminum I figured I would replace the stock screws with socket head screws. All went fine no problems. Since I replaced the backplate screws I figures I would replace the four head screws with socket head screws as well. The first screw came out easily enough but the other three ended up stripped. Did not matter how careful I was or the amount of force applied they were stuck in there hard enough that the soft cross head screws stripped. I ended up having to drill the heads off of the screws. This resulted in mucking up the blue coating a bit which pissed me off to no end. But I figured I would need to replace the screws anyway sooner or later. Now the head is held in place with four socket head screws to future proof the motor.

I was wondering if anyone else had this issue with a new box stock .46 LA?
Words Spoken by the first human to set foot on Mars... "Now What?"

Offline john e. holliday

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Re: OS .46 LA Screws
« Reply #1 on: January 12, 2021, 10:54:23 PM »
Yes. a little heat made them come out easier. D>K
John E. "DOC" Holliday
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Offline Craig Beswick

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Re: OS .46 LA Screws
« Reply #2 on: January 12, 2021, 11:09:06 PM »
Peter, for future reference they are not, "Normal", philips head screws. They are JIS (Japanese) screws.
A no'2 JIS screwdriver should have a better result.

Craig
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"The Ninja"

Online Brett Buck

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Re: OS .46 LA Screws
« Reply #3 on: January 12, 2021, 11:54:22 PM »
Peter, for future reference they are not, "Normal", philips head screws. They are JIS (Japanese) screws.
A no'2 JIS screwdriver should have a better result.

   Exactly. It is even labeled to tell you not to use a conventional Phillips head, note the dot impressed on it.

    I just tried it on a brand new in box 46LA, to me it is beyond conception that it could strip out the head, it is more secure than any Allen screw I have ever used - including the one where I nearly stripped the head on the Allen screw on a 40VF the other day. The screws aren't that soft, it's the 4 $5 screwdriver that everyone steadfastly refuses to use.

https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=pd_sbs_469_4/134-3776994-1122602?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A7WAHTU&pd_rd_r=672241f4-7e61-4cd3-ae01-f147cb966860&pd_rd_w=4JaoB&pd_rd_wg=JVD6Z&pf_rd_p=c52600a3-624a-4791-b4c4-3b112e19fbbc&pf_rd_r=FX0YC9KJJ883H96ZSD5N&psc=1&refRID=FX0YC9KJJ883H96ZSD5N

   The correct size JIS driver to use is a #2, that is the correct driver for all 8 screws.

     I also tried various Craftsman and Proto Phillips screwdrivers, A #2 Craftsman will go in there and have a *chance*, but it is not all the way in the slots. Note that it looks comically too large just looking at it, the shaft is 2x or more diameter of the screwhead.  Any #1 Phillips I have will not work and is *very likely* to strip, since the point bottoms out before the slots are fully engaged.

   A good check is whether you have any residual slop. The #2 Craftsman Phillips will go back and forth a few degrees. The #1 Phillips will rotate back and forth maybe 30 degrees, that is the indication that it WILL NOT WORK. The JIS #2 (Hozan or Vessel) has *zero* slop, and I mean, none at all, it is fully tight and cannot rotate any at all.

    Note that this is the almost the same situation with flat screwdrivers. There should be nearly no slop in rotation, if there is, you will at least damage the slots, it might work, but the key to good workmanship is that you can work on it and leave no "technician traces", it still looks new when you are done.

      Brett

   
« Last Edit: January 13, 2021, 11:14:55 AM by Brett Buck »

Offline George Truett

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Re: OS .46 LA Screws
« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2021, 09:54:11 AM »
Back in 2016, I purchased this same set of screwdrivers using a link posted by Brett in a thread very similar to this one.  I immediately put them to use removing every stuck screw from every OS engine I own.  Once you have them, you will find them appropriate for many fasteners you will come across.  In particular, the small one is magic for the small servo mounting screws that come packaged with every servo. I had never been able to use them before.

Offline Fredvon4

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Re: OS .46 LA Screws
« Reply #5 on: January 13, 2021, 10:16:05 AM »
Learning about JIS screw drivers 30 years ago would have saved a lot of grief on my Honda's, Kawasaki's and Yamaha motorcycles
"A good scare teaches more than good advice"

Fred von Gortler IV

Offline frank mccune

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Re: OS .46 LA Screws
« Reply #6 on: January 13, 2021, 10:49:23 AM »
     Craig and Brett:

     Great posts! The proper tool does not cost, it pays. 

     Frank McCune

Online Brett Buck

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Flogging the dead horse WAS Re: OS .46 LA Screws
« Reply #7 on: January 13, 2021, 11:40:14 PM »
To continue furiously flogging this dead horse, the is an illustration of the problem:



   Note that not only is the proper driver much more blunt, it is also a different angle and much thicker individual blades. The point on the Phillips bottoms out in the screw and does not allow the individual blades to reach to the ends of the slots. That, and the fact that the blades are far too narrow to make contact all the way across, makes the pressure where it does touch much much higher for a given amount of torque, basically is it touching at best on just the edge, and then on a small part of the edge.

    The proper driver makes contact from the bottom all the way to the edge, and completely fills the slots, greatly lowering the pressure on the interface.

   The high local pressure is what causes the metal to yield. I checked with my hardness files, and the OS screws in the 46LA are about as hard as the Allen cap screws that come in the 40VF. The problem is not the metal, is it creating high local pressures that damages the slots.

    OF course, with this knowledge, you could, if you were pretty careful, grind a Phillips driver to the same shape as the JIS. Not only do you take off the point, you have to grind the blades at a slightly different angle, and far enough up the shaft to catch the blade as it widens out. Unfortunately, that also makes it catch the slot up on the curved part of the blade cutouts, so you still have a problem, just not as big a problem as before.

   But of course, once you note that you can get the right screwdriver fo $5 in a few days, that all begins to look like a lot of work that you could avoid, and do something useful instead.

    Brett




     

Offline Peter Nevai

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Re: OS .46 LA Screws
« Reply #8 on: January 14, 2021, 12:26:11 AM »
Thanks guys, and yes they are not your philips head. I just forgot the name (JIS) I first tried a JIS driver, then a slightly larger head, when that did no work I put the bits into my Makida impact driver well that made a total mess of things and I ultimately had to drill three of the four screws. All is good now as all the screws have been replaced with allen head socket screws. I figured I'd post this just in case others run into the same issues.
Words Spoken by the first human to set foot on Mars... "Now What?"

Online Brett Buck

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Re: OS .46 LA Screws
« Reply #9 on: January 14, 2021, 12:37:48 AM »
Thanks guys, and yes they are not your philips head. I just forgot the name (JIS) I first tried a JIS driver, \

    If it stripped out, you had *too small a driver*. It *will not* strip if you use the right drivers, it would break the head off the screw completely before the screwdriver slipped. As evidenced by the fact that you got a larger one to fit after the first attempt - the right driver, the one and only right driver, is the biggest one that can possibly fit.

     Brett

Offline dennis lipsett

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Re: OS .46 LA Screws
« Reply #10 on: January 14, 2021, 06:03:50 AM »
Like Peters response I changed every Japanese Industrial Standard screw with socket heads. Of course I had JIS screwdrivers to remove the screws. The screws are incredibly soft and the socket head screws are easy to use.

Online Brett Buck

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Re: OS .46 LA Screws
« Reply #11 on: January 14, 2021, 10:52:54 AM »
   It is absolutely no mystery why we have so many "why won't my engine run right?" threads.

    Brett

Offline bob whitney

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Re: OS .46 LA Screws
« Reply #12 on: January 14, 2021, 06:29:10 PM »
take a flat punch about the size of the screw head and give it a good rap with a hammer(dont kill it) ,it will jar the screw enough to let u remove it .if u have a screwdriver u dont mind beating on u can do the same with that,RAD
rad racer

Offline Peter in Fairfax, VA

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Re: OS .46 LA Screws
« Reply #13 on: January 14, 2021, 08:24:23 PM »
Once you have converted to socket heads, don't go crazy tightening.  Don't ask how I know this.

Offline Peter Nevai

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Re: OS .46 LA Screws
« Reply #14 on: January 14, 2021, 10:11:24 PM »
Once you have converted to socket heads, don't go crazy tightening.  Don't ask how I know this.
Certainly not. Just enough to keep things snug. Roughly about one eighth turn after the screw seats. Have had my share of stripped screw holes in aluminum I know to be cautious. I suppose that is was a cost cutting measure to only have four head screws instead of 6.
Words Spoken by the first human to set foot on Mars... "Now What?"


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