I buy this brand of tank.  They always need some reworking, but as long as I check my work they work fine in the end.

Oh haha. I actually clicked on that and everything

And I'm not a smartass.  I'm just -- uh -- differently serious.

I just got one off the hobby shop rack for the Red 'pants. I needed every bit of length I could jam into the plane so I was going to shorten a longer tank. So I unsoldered the endcap. Lots of rust adjacent to every solder joint. I would have been unclogging filters forever....

So looking inside would appear to be necessary unless you want to gamble. If you are building it permanently (hopefully?) into your fuselage, then looking inside or building your own seems mandatory. I haven't seen any crooked plumbing yet, though. Bob drew that lucky card. Glad you caught it before it got to be a real nuisance!

McDivot

Danish,

If you have the time, I would check it. It is usually better to tune things up than just live with them.

I would try "surveying" it before you go to the trouble of popping it open. Take the tank off. Find a level bench. Fill your syringe with some test fuel. Lay tank along edge of bench and fill thru feed line until it just starts to come out the uniflow. (This assumes an "all tubes forward on centerline" tank.)  Pick the tank up and avoid spilling any fuel. Lay it down on the opposite side (top becomes bottom) and see if fuel comes out. If not, continue filling until it just starts to come out. Pick the tank up and flip it over again. Now if it does, then the two lines are not at the same height, and you can guesstimate how far off they are. You get the idea, and can work out the variations.

Or you can just unsolder it if you like doing that kind of thing....

McDivot

PS--You might also eyeball the tank from the side. Sometimes they are not quite level and that can screw you up. It is easy to do if the thrustline and the wing centerline are offset, and if the nose doesn't have any straight, horizontal edges.

I've been having a bear of a time with Brodak tanks lately.  one DOA, another was fine for a couple of flights, but now is suffering from no flow, just like the first...

   I have seen a lot of people having trouble with "new" Veco T21 style tanks lately, and many of them were due to rust, severe in some cases. I have no idea where they come from, but whoever is putting them together seems to be using some sort of acid flux (which should be completely unnecessary( and then not neutralizing it. Some types of acid flux (like the type supplied in the Sta-Brite kit) *can't be effectively removed* no matter what you do.

    Rusting tanks are *very rare* if you do it correctly.

     Brett