My first Enya and I have read everything I could find on the forum and elsewhere for it. I believe it still needs broken in. I have only had very short runs and have black residue from the exhaust. No matter where I have set the needle (almost closed to 5 turns open), it is spitting fuel out the venturi. I have raised and lowered the tank on the bench and swapped glow plugs. Going to drop from an 11/4 prop to a 10/5 prop next try. It has a Super Tiger style needle valve setup. I have blown fuel thru it and cleaned the needle. I should pull the assy out and make sure it's the correct size for the venturi. Anything else that I should check? The short runs that I have had, produced awesome power, 10 to 15 seconds at a time. Or do I need more patience and keep flipping? I have not experienced the fuel spitting out the venturi before. Thanks in advance!

Quote from: Roy Lane on May 31, 2026, 05:16:30 PMMy first Enya and I have read everything I could find on the forum and elsewhere for it. I believe it still needs broken in. I have only had very short runs and have black residue from the exhaust. No matter where I have set the needle (almost closed to 5 turns open), it is spitting fuel out the venturi. I have raised and lowered the tank on the bench and swapped glow plugs. Going to drop from an 11/4 prop to a 10/5 prop next try. It has a Super Tiger style needle valve setup. I have blown fuel thru it and cleaned the needle. I should pull the assy out and make sure it's the correct size for the venturi. Anything else that I should check? The short runs that I have had, produced awesome power, 10 to 15 seconds at a time. Or do I need more patience and keep flipping? I have not experienced the fuel spitting out the venturi before. Thanks in advance!

I have a fair amount of experience with Enya engines.  They are very fine engines but do take a great deal of break in time.   At least two hours or more.   I have questions:
What fuel mix are you using?
Is it brand new or got some previous run time on it?
Has it been sitting for an extended time?
I'm not fully understanding- are you getting full tank runs with it or just short runs and it quits?
It's not totally unusual to get a little blowback out the venturi occasionally if it's a real problem then I wonder if you have disassembled it?  It would indicate the sleeve may be in 180 degrees backwards.   If you look into the exhaust port you should be able to see some of the bottom of the sleeve port and not so much the top.  If you can look across the top of the piston the intake port on the opposite side should appear just a bit lower than the exhaust port.  If it is higher then the sleeve is backwards.  This also puts the boost port 180 degrees wrong.   This would force a good portion of the fuel charge back out the venturi rather than into the cylinder.  It COULD have come out the manufacturer that way by accident but usually it's an error by a later owner.  Anyway give us a little more info..

Dave

My earlier questions had to do with your comment about black exhaust.  That indicates corrosion inside the engine.

Had a long answer typed out but lost it trying to add a picture. Short version - new to me motor. Looks to have little or no run time. Some case screws appear to have been messed with, but not by me. I have had it about 6 months gifted by an older club member. Fuel is 5/22 all castor, in only 4 or 5 second runs. Like running off a wet prime. Will send a picture by messenger or facebook message. Looking in the exhaust port, the sleeve almost mirrors the exhaust port top, bottom and both sides. Looking across the piston, the sleeve is 1/8th to 3/16ths (my eyeballs may be out of calibration) above the piston at bottom center. Can see the port behind it well. I believe by your description the sleeve is 180 out. That will explain the spitting out the venturi. Very visible in drops.

Yeah thats what It sounds like.  Have tons of Enyas here but sold the SS.40s so I cannot look but I think it is a flat top piston .  If there is any baffle it should be rotated furthest away from the exhaust.  You will need to remove the head and backplate.  Then hopefully you can work the sleeve up and out.   It may take some heat from a heat gun or baking the whole engine in the oven a few minutes to loosen any congealed oil. DO NOT attack it with any metal tools!   I have used slivers of hardwood or nylon set in the ports to help push the sleeve up.  Once it is out you get it rotated 180 and lined up with the exhaust opening in the case and push it back in.  Then reassemble making new gaskets if needed.  I do OK with aluminum Duct Tape for this.  The head gasket should be fine as is but the backplate is often fiber or paper and can split when pulled apart.  Sometimes it helps to work the old gaskets loose with a razor blade without breaking them.
Your fuel should not be a problem.  These are newer Schnerle ported, CNC machined engines so a 50/50 oil mix, castor and technoplate may be better in the long run-but is not your issue right now.   Please let me know how it goes....It could be the engine is newer than you think.   It would never run as is.  It is uncanny how many newbies to the hobby think they have to disassemble the dang engines.  They should have their tools taken away.....

Dave

That's a flat-top piston. No baffle.

Look for plier-marks on the top of the liner. That's a dead giveaway that Mickey Mechanic got his hands on it. This abuse can leave the top of the liner out of round. If there are no buggering marks on it or on the prop drive hub, then you might have an almost zero-time engine. If it wasn't rusty inside, it is likely a winner!

FINALLY got it to run! I really didn't want to believe the cylinder was 180 out. The mechanic in me didn't want to disassemble it unnecessarily. I removed the needle valve assembly. It was the correct diameter Super Tiger style assembly but the spray hole was almost to the side of the venturi. Also noticed that when I thought it was bottoming out, it was just a rough spot (or bend) in the needle. Shimmed it with two fat washers. The 'net' says to have the spray hole pointed the direction of the crankshaft run. Not so on this assy, I rotated it pointing straight down and got the needle truly seated. Backed it off 3 turns. Finally got her to run. Ran rich thru several 2 minute runs. It feels much stronger than my LA 40. While pondering my situation, I found a guy (Perky Planes and RC) on YouTube that was playing with a couple of the same engine. Never saw a good look at the exhaust port but what I saw looked like mine. Thanks everyone for the good tips and help.

    Your main issue was the spray bar orientation and why it wouldn't run, and was spitting out the venturi. Now that you get extended runs, what does the exhaust look like? The smaller diameter prop will help with break in, and leave the muffler off. Having some dark stuff in the exhaust on a new engine is kinda normal and should dissipate as you run it. Is the SS.40 a ball bearing engine or a bushed main bearing? If a ball bearing, how does it feel now that you have some runs on it? If the bearings feel kind of rough, you may want to replace those before you do any more break in. I have a few in my stash but have not used them, mainly because they don't share the same mounts as  OS, Fox and such. The only complaints I have ever read about Enyas is the extended time it takes to get them broken in, but once they are, they last forever.
   Type at you later,
     Dan McEntee

I put  10X5 prop on it while doing the NV. It's a bushed engine. Exhaust is brownish and getting lighter with each run. Each run (about 2 minutes and rich as it will run steady) gets easier to start. Going to be a great engine.

Quote from: Roy Lane on June 04, 2026, 01:53:30 AMI put  10X5 prop on it while doing the NV. It's a bushed engine. Exhaust is brownish and getting lighter with each run. Each run (about 2 minutes and rich as it will run steady) gets easier to start. Going to be a great engine.

      Don't baby it too much. Too rich, and it never gets to operating temperature, and things don't heat up and expand like they would normally, and that makes things hard on the rod ends. Just lean it out a bit more if you are seeing the exhaust get clearer, and run it in a higher four stroke mode, and pinch the fuel line now and then to clear it's throat a bit. Starting easier is a good sign, and you can start running a whole tank full each run. Sounds like you are in the ball park and on your way to putting it in an airplane soon.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

Quote from: Roy Lane on June 03, 2026, 02:27:33 PMFINALLY got it to run! I really didn't want to believe the cylinder was 180 out. The mechanic in me didn't want to disassemble it unnecessarily. I removed the needle valve assembly. It was the correct diameter Super Tiger style assembly but the spray hole was almost to the side of the venturi. Also noticed that when I thought it was bottoming out, it was just a rough spot (or bend) in the needle. Shimmed it with two fat washers. The 'net' says to have the spray hole pointed the direction of the crankshaft run. Not so on this assy, I rotated it pointing straight down and got the needle truly seated. Backed it off 3 turns. Finally got her to run. Ran rich thru several 2 minute runs. It feels much stronger than my LA 40. While pondering my situation, I found a guy (Perky Planes and RC) on YouTube that was playing with a couple of the same engine. Never saw a good look at the exhaust port but what I saw looked like mine. Thanks everyone for the good tips and help.

Well good.  Sometimes it really is just simple.   The Enya WILL have a good deal more power than your LA .40 ( we felt the LA .40 was a wimp,  measured against the FP .40)  It's a tough nut too.  Don't be afraid to run it quick and cool with a smaller light prop and let it run full tanks.  Like Dan said someplace here pinch the fuel lone briefly or tip the test stand back to lean it out in spirts. I had around two hours on mine before I felt it was saddle broke.  Even then it still seemed a little tight in the air for a while.  As it gets near broke in I increase prop sizes up to the flight prop, adding load and temperature to the engine.  Finally put the muffler on to increase temp to regular operating range for a few tanks.  I would do the break in completely on the final fuel you plan to fly with.  On this one 10/22 works OK.  All earlier Enyas get 5 to 10/25 all castor.

Dave