stunthanger.com
Engine basics => Engine set up tips => Topic started by: Clint Ormosen on May 10, 2011, 11:58:38 PM
-
Just recieved my new "Hi Torque" pipe engine header from AeroProducts (thanks Randy). According to the chart, looks like the starting length for the PA65 should be about 17.5". If I measure from the glow plug to the first baffle of the pipe, I'd have to cut 3" off the pipe to get to 17.5". That's 3" off my brand new $100 pipe! Not to mention taking off 3" is most of the "skinny" section of pipe. Is this right? I can't uncut it once it's done so I have to make sure it right.
-
You can start by cutting your $30.00 header! My headers are typically 2 3/4" to 3". You'll want at least 3/4" to 7/8" (of header/pipe) inside each side of the connector with about 1/2" of open area inside the connector to lengthen/shorten the pipe.
Use 2 wire ties on each end to secure things.
W.
-
Once upon a time I wuz gonna cut the header also.
Then Randy informed me of the high possibility of burning up the pipe.
Best check with Randy, just to be sure.
"Tight Lines!" H^^
Wes
-
I read the same thing about the header length, so I wasn't planning on cutting it.
-
I read the same thing about the header length, so I wasn't planning on cutting it.
If you're interested in how we know about cutting the pipe and not the header just ask a man who has found the header end of the expensive pipe flattened by heat...like me! Long time ago and maybe there are more heat resistant epoxies in use nowadays but I sure learned my lesson.
Ted
Ted
-
Just recieved my new "Hi Torque" pipe engine header from AeroProducts (thanks Randy). According to the chart, looks like the starting length for the PA65 should be about 17.5". If I measure from the glow plug to the first baffle of the pipe, I'd have to cut 3" off the pipe to get to 17.5". That's 3" off my brand new $100 pipe! Not to mention taking off 3" is most of the "skinny" section of pipe. Is this right? I can't uncut it once it's done so I have to make sure it right.
Hi Clint
18.5 will be a good place to start unless your really going to try to turn higher RPMs. Cut the PIpe NOT the header, then insert the alumimun end back in the pipe. measure from the "bump" at the back where the CF pipe gets 1/10 inch bigger, That is where the first reflective surface is located.
If you do need to go shorter you can always trim another inch later
Randy
-
Hi Clint
18.5 will be a good place to start unless your really going to try to turn higher RPMs. Cut the PIpe NOT the header, then insert the alumimun end back in the pipe. measure from the "bump" at the back where the CF pipe gets 1/10 inch bigger, That is where the first reflective surface is located.
If you do need to go shorter you can always trim another inch later
Randy
Randy, I don't really want to turn high rpm. I'll start at 18.5". I'd rather the engine 4 stroke through the entire pattern anyway. Does the aluminum insert get secured into the pipe or just slip it in and leave it?
-
Randy, I don't really want to turn high rpm. I'll start at 18.5". I'd rather the engine 4 stroke through the entire pattern anyway. Does the aluminum insert get secured into the pipe or just slip it in and leave it?
Hi Clint you do not need to glue it or secure it in, The lip stops it from going deeper into the pipe, and the silicone will keep it from moving forward, and after it is ran several times it will stick quite nicley itself to the front of the pipe
Randy
-
One more thing I layup and make the cf pipes extra long because several motor "have" to have much longer pipes, some as much as 20 to 22 inches on the tune, You can always make them shorter,,, but longer is a bit more difficult
Randy
-
Thanks Randy. I cut the pipe for 18.5" with room in the coulper to go to 18" before I'd have to cut it again. You're right, I'd much rather have to cut twice than buy a new one if cut too short.
Also, I'll be calling you for a higher rise header. I guessed wrong.
-
I stand corrected. But my set ups were built 10(?) years ago. Never had the problem.
W.