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Engine basics => Engine set up tips => Topic started by: John Craig on July 07, 2018, 07:22:46 PM
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The engine is a OS 61 clone. It may have had a break-in run or two & has sat for the last 15 years. The oil that was in it is now DRY & crusty. Heat, the popsicle stick trick, & some persuasion: got the liner up 1/4 of an inch. That's it & no more! ??? It could be a nicer runner if I could get it apart & put new bearings in.
Suggestion Please?
Soak in carb cleaner for a week or two?
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I put ATF in the cylinder and inside the case allowing it to go around the cylinder. Wearing gloves grab the case and use a paint stripper heat gun. You should be able to heat and the ATF will smoke which is a good indicator your plenty hot. A twist or two and that liner should come out.
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The engine is a OS 61 clone. It may have had a break-in run or two & has sat for the last 15 years. The oil that was in it is now DRY & crusty. Heat, the popsicle stick trick, & some persuasion: got the liner up 1/4 of an inch. That's it & no more! ??? It could be a nicer runner if I could get it apart & put new bearings in.
Suggestion Please?
Someone cloned an OS61? Interesting.
I have had to deal with this recently (see other new post) but I have always had luck putting it in the oven on about 250, and then pushing it out from the backplate hole with a maple stick.
Brett
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Obviously , you need to wear leather gloves or oven mits .
A u shaped piece of 1/8 steel , or more corectly a U cut in 1/8 steel or alumn. , IF youve got it up 1/4 ,
can be slid under liner flange , and ' pursuasion ' applied . A Dowl down the bore & a whack . :-[
Likely oiling , pressing home again , might not be fatal . Gunks probly balled , going the 1/4 .
CRC / WD 40 , harras it periodically , a few days beween . Heating etc .
Dont distort anything with to much brute & not enough subtle .
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Obviously , you need to wear leather gloves or oven mits .
A u shaped piece of 1/8 steel , or more corectly a U cut in 1/8 steel or alumn. , IF youve got it up 1/4 ,
can be slid under liner flange , and ' pursuasion ' applied . A Dowl down the bore & a whack . :-[
I would caution against prying on anything with metal implements or whacking anything. Most of the time you will get away with it, sometimes you won't. Hard wood like maple is a lot safer.
I also wouldn't recommend the old standby of sticking a glow plug washer in the exhaust port, too. With iron pistons and liners, maybe, but aluminum or brass, no way.
Brett
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Since the cylinder flange has been pushed up 1/4" or so, I would look at making a puller. Basically, turn a ring .010" larger bore than the liner OD and a little less than that 1/4". Drill & tap this ring for 3mm screws (the head bolt pattern should be perfect), and bandsaw it in two "C" pieces. Make another plate to cover the top of the cylinder flange, same bolt pattern, probably 1/2" thick. Also drill and tap a hole in the center and screw in a slide hammer if you have one, or fabricate one from odds & ends...long bolt, All-Thread, piece of pipe for the slider, or whatever you have.
I'm not sure if the "OS .61 clone" has a separate front housing and backplate, but if not, then mount the thing on a piece of hardwood or aluminum, which could then be clamped into a bench vise. Having put the c'case in the vise in a safe fashion, apply an electric* heatgun to the crankcase and slam away with the slide hammer on the puller thingy. A suitable slider on the slide hammer would be about 8 oz or 1/4 kilo...a 5 lb slider would be too brutal. D>K Steve
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Was infering ?? Tool in VICE , maybe push down on case through the top . Really Fussy a half round in the case so loads spread .
Bearings in the Royal 45 ' The Magic Number ' was 130 Degrees , or someshuch . Boiling Water was Far Short .
The Heat Gun , as suggested above , worked like magic . Bearings dropped free . No Force Required .