Someone gave me an RC trainer: he had one flight on it that ended in dismay.  I stripped it down and low-and-behold here was a nice, new (one very short flight) undamaged Thunder Tiger 36.  And me with a dremel tool and ambitions of being an engine modifier (actually, I have used the info on Dean Pappas' lectures about retiming on a Bob Hunt video combined with advice from Ron Burn to modify some FP-40s quite successfully).

So, what do I do to this thing to get it into a somewhat reasonable mode for doing the old 4/2 cycle bit (or slow2/fast2 bit)?

Scott

Yeah so far no one is talking. At least you asked the correct question. I sort of danced around the question and asked if it was possible. You just came out there and asked. Some people will tell you what they have tried. Tom Muggelton was great he had specs of allot of engines and would just tell you . I made it a hemi head, raised the ports .020 ,lowered the sleeve .008. Bam You can fool around with the size of the ports most of the time smaller to avoid the wind up.  As far as the TT 36 so far ..............no help
I have machine shop background. I have cut on castings worth 10,000.00 . All I need is the dimensions. I am not looking for a how to lecture.  The entry fee here is to buy one done. For 98% of the people that is as far as they want to get involved. I am not worried about hacking up a engine from e bay that cost 37 dollars. On the other hand I am too cheep to spend 200 to find out how to.

Yeah so far no one is talking. At least you asked the correct question. I sort of danced around the question and asked if it was possible. You just came out there and asked. Some people will tell you what they have tried. Tom Muggelton was great he had specs of allot of engines and would just tell you . I made it a hemi head, raised the ports .020 ,lowered the sleeve .008. Bam You can fool around with the size of the ports most of the time smaller to avoid the wind up.  As far as the TT 36 so far ..............no help
I have machine shop background. I have cut on castings worth 10,000.00 . All I need is the dimensions. I am not looking for a how to lecture.  The entry fee here is to buy one done. For 98% of the people that is as far as they want to get involved. I am not worried about hacking up a engine from e bay that cost 37 dollars. On the other hand I am too cheep to spend 200 to find out how to.

Aw, Greg..... that ain't fair!  Scott has the tape from Dean (actually Robin's View Productions, on of the SFVM tapes) and Dean Pappas goes into detail on that tape what specs make a good running stunt engine.

I only *know* of two people who rework a TT 36 for stunt (there *might* be more, I dunno), Byron Barker and Randy Smith.  I have one of Byron's reworked TT36, and it's a good 4-2 engine.

Randy's TT36 I do not have, but I do have a few Aero Tiger 36s.  These are as far from a stock TT 36 as a ST 60 is from a Enya 60.  Randy has new sleeve/piston sets made to different specs to start with, then he does the rest of his mods.  As he said, I just don't *think* you can make an Aero Tiger 36 from a stock TT 36. 

The standard numbers for stunt runs are available pretty easily, though, and I would go with what Phil has said here.  But in the end, it will not be an Aero Tiger 36 which is what most people are gunning for when they talk about the TT36.

Didn't mean to cut anyone off, but the tape will give you all the timing info that you can use.  I wish someone could just give the numbers to cut the sleeve at, etc., but with variances in manufactoring, timing each individual engine is necessary.  Then, again, some guys just raise the intake ports as close to .020 as they can, add head shims, and go use the engine.

Bill <><

  While the modified engines run very well for stunt, the stock engine does surprisingly well if the right prop is used. 

  They still ARE not an AeroTiger .36. I've heard tell of these .36's still going after almost 2000 flights, then needing just a new P&L set, plus bearings. Calculate the cost per flight, excellant value.

 Walter

  Scott, you are to be admired for wanting to know (and be able to do) more in the realm of model aviation.  I am an engine "hacker".  I do  my own engine rework but do not do it for others.  I will say this.  When you start,  even after you have gotten all the measurements and degrees needed for the rework, and have the necessary measuring equipment and tools,  Be prepared to absolutely RUIN two or three  (or perhaps more) engines before you "get the touch" necessary to do the jobs right.  Slips and mistakes WILL occur..

  Have at it and have a good time.

  Bigiron