Is there a magic prop for the Fox 35 stunt? I've heard about the rev up 10-6EW. Did anyone make a mold for that one? Is there a 9-6 three blade that would work? I think I remember some props GA had that looked like wooden spoons? Definitely want something light weight so I don't stress the internals.

MM

  I always had the best luck in general with the Top Flite 10-6 (regular, not "Power Prop").

     Brett

Rev up 10-6EW.  If you can find one that will be Magic! 

  10-6EW might be magic in very hot and near-calm conditions, you need all the blade you can get. It'll be absolute death in significant wind, the whip-up is typically disastrous.

     Brett
 

  For me, the Bolly Clubman 10.5 x 5 is the go-to prop for a Fox 35. in a Ringmaster, Nobler, All American, fly great with this combo.
Al

What's the difference between the Top Flite and the Top Flite Super M ? Is it just the type of wood?

I agree the Top Flight 10-6 or  10-5 if the airplane is smallish or light.   The RSM props were pretty similar .   I think the RevUp 10 EW is a little bit of an overload on the Fox-depending on the particular engine.   The regular 10-6 NOT EW is probably better.   I can't tell much difference with the Super M.   I think they were made from a stiffer wood which might cut down on blade flutter.  I believe Super M was how they called sugar maple.  Thats what I use for motor mounts.   I order a plank from a cabinet maker then get it cut up into the sizes I want.

Dave

Brett--I've found that some wooden props are much better than others. So much so that they are "magical." You can select these by picking only the ones that have an AeroTiger attached to the hub area. Those are the magical props....

The Divot

Thanks guys, all good information. I went through my prop box and found a Top Flite 11-6 power point. I cut it down to 10", narrowed the tip and re-shaped it to look like a regular Top Flite prop in plan form. It of course has the wrong pitch distribution for stunt but it will give me something to use for now. Just a side note: Don't buy Top Flite Power Point props. They vary wildly. I trying to think of the worst props ever made and I think they win. I was able to go through a stack of them with a pitch gauge to find blades of the stated pitch on both sides. I only buy them to modify into something else then use as a pattern for a composite prop. 

   The "Magic Prop" for any engine/airplane combo is the one that works best on YOUR airplane. What works for your flying buddy Charlie might not be the best for you and yours. The best way to find out is to get the model in at least pretty good trim, and then test fly props. Check them for pitch against what they are marked, and then balance them if needed. There are good starting points for each situation, and then go up or down on pitch/diameter from there. A lot depends on model weight, design and shape (drag.) A Rev-Up 10-6 EW would be wasted on a Ringmaster, but on Mike Gretz's  Fierce Arrow it was what really made the airplane fly like I think it should. It's a fairly clean design, but weighs 50+ ounces. Planes that are smaller and lighter don't need as much prop. I have a pretty big collection of props I have accumulated over the years and was taught early on that if one prop did not feel right, try another. Different blade shapes work in different situations. Plastic props are heavier and can affect how an engine/airplane combo performs. I have a couple of Nobler ARfs that i finished up during my knee rehab, and one had a Brodak.40 on it. It was flying best with one of those grey plastic Thunder Tiger 11-4.5 props on it, but to get the best balance and turn I had to add some tail weight. I compared the TT prop to several other wood props and it's blade shape and arrangement is similar to the old Top Flight Power Props, I think they are called. I did not have one of those older wood props in 11" so I decided to make one using one of those Rev-Up 12-5 drone props that have been popping up hear and there over the last 30 years as blanks to cut one from. I measured the blade thickness at 3/8" increments from the tip to about 1" from the shaft hole and made notes. I made a blade template measure in length from the prop hole edge to the tip off of the TT prop, and transferred that shape to the Rev-Up. Then i set out to remove any wood that didn't look like a TT 11-4.5 prop, matched the thickness and airfoil as best I could, set the pitch, balanced it and put a clear finish on it. Next flying session, I put up 2 or 3 flights with t he B-40 Nobler to get ground RPM readings, lap times and engine run times recorded, then all I did next was change over to the wood copy I had made. At engine start up, the RPM  matched the plastic TT prop almost exactly. Lap times were right where they needed to be and the plane felt just the same as it did with the Thunder Tiger prop. Engine run time was right there also within a few seconds of the plastic prop. I considered the whole exercise a success. Next I tried copying Rev-Up 10-6 and 10-6W props in the same manor and re-pitching them to 10-5 and find that they work well on smallish profiles also. Years ago, I got one of the first SIG Primary Force ARFS flying and eventually upgraded the engine to an OS.32F. I was trying every combination of 11-4 props that I had, and as a last resort, I tried a Zinger 11-4 PRO, and that tuned out to be the Magic Prop for that airplane/engine combo. I had never had any success using Zinger props of any kind but in this case it was just what the doctor ordered. You just never know what is going to work until you try it and give it a thorough flight test.
   Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee

I wonder how many of these 10-6 props really pitch out to 5.5.

I wonder how many of these 10-6 props really pitch out to 5.5.

     Almost all of them, and they will flatten out toward the tip. I think this is an attempt to correct for/compensate for the difference between the back of the blade and the zero lift line caused by the camber of the airfoil.

   There are a lot of things you can do with props, particularly with pitch distribution, but it takes a while to learn the basic ideas and even if you get the general idea, it was still mostly trial and error.   It's becoming a lost art, since most electric props fall apart if you try to adjust them, and most of the techniques are *far too strong*/touchy on tuned pipe airplanes.

        Brett

Also fellas, consider which part of this great land you fly in.  Going from Kansas City to Denver I had to use a different prop.   Even going to Muncie IN made a difference.  I have watched Jim Lee writing in his note book after trying some thing new with his planes.  I am bad in not keeping notes.