Same idea as Bill Little did for the LA-46,  but please add if it's stock or has been reworked and who by.  Thanks.

Box stock they are terrible, the after thought about the venturie(restrictor) with the NVA stuck up at the top make life very hard for many trying to run these on built up planes, tank settings are hard, they work better with a true venturie and the NVA located back down where most all others are.
Not to mention many if not most of the China ones NEED to be gone thru to check rods, rings, etc, seen a lot put in backwards and wrong gap or no gap rings, lots of factory broken ones too.

Randy

Box Stock Eyetalian , carefull cool break in in winter . After a few hours running , any fuel'd do .

Had someone comment the run was as good as he'd seen at the world champs . Haveing seen videos know he meant ' of any ' rather than G-51s .

Tornado 10 x 6 3 blade and a 3 in. spinner , let it snarl , let it breath - cant be too choked up on the exhaust . The overweight oversize Silent muffler works well .
The 21/46 muffler fits ( maybe chop the tailpipe off ) as does the Q - 500 one . The props a bit quick , butll pull 2 kilos @ 63 in through 20 knots no bother .
Apart from hanging on , and twanging .018 llaystrate 7 strands in the bottoms of squares . A lighter chap'd need two hands , and Ive used golf shoes when its damp .

Needs a proper ' Engine Bed ' as they all do , profile'd have a half in. doubler back to the spar . This's got 1/2 Sq. bearers running to L.E. , ply side doublers , aryldited . 3/16 Sht. sides . 3 in. spinner .

So the things tied down with 1/8 unf steel bolts , so doesnt get ' vibration periods ' needle setting will get it switching smootlhy in the vertical 8s at middle of bottom or top loops , up or down , as required .

Thats the olde cowe with the undercarrage ripped out ( took 20 minutes with a disc grinder , was integraded securely  ) and thicker wing , for what Im not to sure . Had 3 in wheels , so engine was doing some work .

The other below at the same Wt. ( 70 oz. odd ) would waffle along on a 12 x 6 Tornado nylon , or Ive used a Master 12 x 6 wood - With the Silent Muffler . No Problem .
 Thinking a Custom 11 x 5 Tornado Three Blade in F/G will be best . The S6B 's 2 Kilos and it drags it through the scedule fine , if the tanks not full of rust .  



Rumour here is one head gasket for Ea 5 % of Nitro ( Aus . - warm & dry )
ST 60 intakes fit , As case dimn's same as V 51 / 56 / 60 for the Intake Assy .

Gave them initial flights on the 1450 gramme profile 150% 54 in profile Peacemaker ( Flite Streak ) so as not to load them , or get galling - on a 12 x 6 . Got Three .
Gotta G 40 Ringed for the 10 x 4 three blade for the wind , as the 51 sounds a bit odd on that . For the smaller planes . The MB3 was 51 1/2 ( and 2 Kilo  ) .
Hold on & stay with it . Need to depitch for much past 5 sec. laps , down to FIVE or so , Id think . NOT Modified . at all at all - just carefully run in .

A advantage of a wide fuselage is you can set the tank outward , this improves the pick up overhead - or as hight increases . & richens it level .
I wouldnt expect entire consistancy on the switch untill its run a few hours in the air . Once bedded in it likes to haul the coal . A 55 Oz plane isnt really loading it,
as its reputed ( by the manufacturer ) to have more power than the V 60 - at higher rpm's . They also recomend a 11 x 6 , which though not brilliant , is a good place to start -
TEST . As it should RUN CORRECTLY on one , if to fast . A REAL 11 x 6 such as a oild Tornado or Top Flite , not one of the modern toothpick APCs or Master ( Black Nylon ) .
a 13 x 6 apc is more like it , a ton of weight to get horrendous gyroscopic prcession . But itll swing it o.k.  Likely the 12 x 6 Master , and Trim it to DEPITCH .
Say mark 1/2 chord on the underside , then say 3 mm forward from the trailing edge . Carefully remove this area from the back with a largeish sharp half round file , exactly .
then dress smooth ( should be stuff all in that , as you have it EXACTLY TRIMMED , if you marked it exactly Ea Side - use a Virneer Caliper . ) then dope .
Throw the heavy blade , if there is one , opposite TDC . This aligns it with the counterweight - and can SMOOTH opperation .

Firstly , are you useing a drop of amourall - as it could be foaming with a typical light modern front end . No harm in being salubrious with the epoxy on the fuselage forward of the spar .

Secondly , theyre a bit like the European things ( theres a thing ) in that they do not need nitro . Youre likely to find it runs better without . & 80 cc for the scheduels a benefit .
Mine blow the fireball plugs . The Enya 3 or 4 or the Italian S T plugs good .

Theres usually a quater turn on the needle across the break , coming up from rich. Particularly as 4 is cooler tha 2 - so the heats not in it . Without a Tacho its less missleading to needle IN to a Smooth 2 Stroke , then steadily open through the blat blat where its switching stationary richer to just the top of a steady four . No richer untill air tested .

Coming in on the needle from a stedy four stroke theres a quater turn from it starting to two stroke , to the point just elaborated - never get it first pop going in - likely the temperature shift hasnt happened . The Fireballs work good - for six flights if youre lucky , then they punch the element in, which the experts will tell you is overcompressed .
So in a light plane , throwing something like a additional 0.7 mm head gasket in couldnt hurt .

Useing normalish tounge mufflers burns the piston side brown . YUK . One has a minmum of ten hours on it , or fifteen - the pistons got a scorched T on top , otherwise clean there. the one with around five hours you can just see the T on the clean piston top - for what its worth .

ELSEWHERE HERE , others have prattled about useing 18 % oil ,  the gap up in the backplate to case can collect gook - and with a shift dump it - causeing problems . Maybe this is the trouble . ?
What they said was over 18 % oil caused grief . Once the things had a hour in the air , it should be sufficently bedded in for this to be no problem . I used a variety of cheap commercial fuel at times - 18 % shell or Castrol in it alledgedly . Recent internal inspection of both engines shows no wear . As its a twin ball race & ringed engine - it doesnt have high oiling requirements .

Id run in on the Red castor , later mixed  2 to 1 or 50 / 50 coolpower castor & Synthetic , or used their blend - but useually at 20 % or 23 %, sometimes 20 C & 3 Syn. as was for other engines also . Not keen on useing cheap oil on the more valuable engines , Consider the coolpower or that red stuff the better ones .

Putting a 10 x 6 on it and reving the snot out of it should clear it out or trash it if its suspect - most unlikely . This therefore would save a lot of stuffing about . a light aircraft wouldnt put a load on it to seat the ring unless carefull .This proceedure would bust the glaze .

maybe relevant : http://www.modelairplanenews.com/blog/2012/10/02/must-know-fuel-facts/ AND the ' Red Stuff is / was KLOTZ . thank you .  

also ballasting the plane up to 65 / 70 Oz should get it working . Or buy all the worthless overweight planes - to get it to run well. And buy some strong lines. No pussyfooting about .
Running in was just tractoring about on the 12 x 6 dead steady revs, to get time on it . Once its all good , Id thought of throwing another wing on one 70 Oz Hurricane , as it was still overpowered ( and 52 in span oops . Longer moment had it flying accurate . Thats the one I tried the 13x6 APC on . Clouted the deck distracted in the bottom of a hourglass .
There was a white mark across one blade after as I knocked the right gear leg out & the prop bent back - still pulled up & finished the schedule , still got the prop .

Try a 11 x 6 wood , and youll find out what its about .  pays to assemble the plane and controls securely with that power . Stretchs .016 solids discernably in a bit of wind .
 theyre a bit light . So build accordingly .

Morning fellas .
My set-up :

Sent my G51 , the C/L version to Tom Dixon.
Careful bench running in using all castor 20% straight fuel.
Enya #3 plug.

Fly with :
12x5 prop' , usually MAS.
Fuel is  half and half Castor / klotz synthetic with just 5% Nitro.
Nice throng 4 stroke at around 9,000 rpm in my profile Cardinal.
R/C tank with uniflow , no pressure.

That's it , dead reliable .

A Very Happy New Year from S.W.France to all.

Robin Holden.
Montignac le Coq.

China-made version, sent to Frank Bowman for a new ring and lapping the head to cylinder fit; NVA in the base of the venturi where it "should" be (using existing hole for venturi-attachment screws); otherwise stock, original bearings. Sig 10-22 fuel (10-20 with added castor); tried lots of props but like 12-5 RevUp wood, though APC 12-4 or 13.25 x 3.75 would probably be good. Thunderbolt RC plug. This is one potent motor, equal to ST 60 IMHO. Pulled Score ARF with no problems at all. Good stunt run qualities, no problem with heat or runaways. This is at sea level in Northern California.

I have two for over 10 years. Both ran poorly. Finally I took both of them down and loosened the wrist pin put in Frank Bowman rings and ran them with stock needle valve setup and they run perfect. 12/4 prop on 18% oil,1/3 castor,9000+ RPM. Moving the needle valve down is easier to set up than the stock set up.The stock set up needs a deep fuselage to hold the tank as it is a long way off the motor mounts. I also found that the stock set up did not work very well on profiles. I have retrofitted them in to old ST/46 models with good results.

  Steve , my best Tiger has zero compression  real flat until I start it.

Kit-built Brodak "Legacy", but some cosmetic changes, so I called it "Larceny".  ST51 re-worked by Tommie Lay Jr.  Scott Dinger tube muffler, plastic clunk tank.  An excellent flyer.  My only complaint is starting the ST.  It never gives a "bump" after the usual priming procedure.  Then, it will suddenly run full bore!  I have taken to using an electric start for this reason.  Once going, engine run is steady and powerful.

Floyd