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Anderson .65 glow (R/C?)

Started by Michael LeGate, June 05, 2026, 01:05:55 AM

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Michael LeGate

This popped up from the bottom of the crypt, looks like it could be a runner if the venturi problem can be solved. Engine turns over, very stiff, rings are intact. Mecoa has a crankcase for @ $72 but it looks to be an ignition version, front end is a little different. Any ideas on building custom setup? Have no clue what the original version used. Any tips on venturi dia, available spraybar/needle replacements, fuel/oil requirements, prop sizes, rpms?

I remember seeing this engine in uncle Roy's workshop, never thought I'd be trying to bring it back to life 65 years later :o
Thanks for any info you can pass on.

Dennis Toth

Many of the old ignition engines of the time (Atwoods, Olsons, McCoys) were switched over to glow, they run just fine actually cooler than on ignition. Run 5%n and 25% total oil will be fine. Maybe Jim Lee could do a venturi like a 0.265 with a ST type NVA. They are a little lower rpm but could start with a wide blade 12x6.

Best,  DennisT

Dave_Trible

This looks to be a glow conversion- hard to tell if by factory or previous owner.  When glow emerged most the manufacturers switched quickly on the production line using pre-existing cases and parts but also sold conversion 'kits' so previous buyers could convert their own at home.  That blue head is also a later conversion item though I'm not sure the inside of it is any different that original.  It just has bigger cooling fins and updates the appearance.  The steel band right behind the prop covers the place in the case where the timing points rode.  These were about the cream of the crop in ignition engines and run very admirably but probably at about 3/4 the power of a modern engine of equivalent size.   They WILL turn a very large prop at lower rpm.  14" props were not uncommon at least in free flight for it. It has a very long stroke.  It is the upgraded engine from a Super Cyclone which was also designed by Mel Anderson.   It's best use today would be in Old Time Stunt.

Dave

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Michael LeGate

It cleaned up pretty good in antifreeze today. Small pot sitting on a cast iron pad in the sun for about 6 hours, guessing 120 degrees, and a couple of 1/8 bamboo skewers to pick the crud off. Looked at a lot of ebay sales and the Mecoa site to pick up info and now have just as many more questions. Apparently the head can be turned 180... if you can make a tool to unscrew the backplate and turn the piston too. Thinking this was a factory glow version because the front of the crankcase hasn't been drilled out for the points mounting plate. Also seeing pics of ignition versions both with and without the 4 sub induction holes in the front and back of the cylinder casting. There's just barely enough meat left around the venturi area to plug a nylon insert into. Pretty sure I can make that work. Not sure if I want to recreate the long slash cut, looks like it would be hard to choke.

Big props, low nitro, lower rpm, OTS...and I'm more of a scale guy. Possible old 50's Sterling SE-5 project? Well, need to get it running first.

So what is the ideal temp for cooking engines in antifreeze?


Dave_Trible

Quote from: Michael LeGate on June 05, 2026, 09:07:04 PMIt cleaned up pretty good in antifreeze today. Small pot sitting on a cast iron pad in the sun for about 6 hours, guessing 120 degrees, and a couple of 1/8 bamboo skewers to pick the crud off. Looked at a lot of ebay sales and the Mecoa site to pick up info and now have just as many more questions. Apparently the head can be turned 180... if you can make a tool to unscrew the backplate and turn the piston too. Thinking this was a factory glow version because the front of the crankcase hasn't been drilled out for the points mounting plate. Also seeing pics of ignition versions both with and without the 4 sub induction holes in the front and back of the cylinder casting. There's just barely enough meat left around the venturi area to plug a nylon insert into. Pretty sure I can make that work. Not sure if I want to recreate the long slash cut, looks like it would be hard to choke.

Big props, low nitro, lower rpm, OTS...and I'm more of a scale guy. Possible old 50's Sterling SE-5 project? Well, need to get it running first.

So what is the ideal temp for cooking engines in antifreeze?


I've not used antifreeze for this so can't tell you a temp.  The sub induction holes are an indication (I stand to be corrected on size) of whether it's a .61 or .64 displacement.  I think the holes were .64.  You can see this on some of the Super Cykes as well.  Running,  I doubt you can tell a difference.  You can indeed rotate the upper case to exhaust the other way but I haven't seen any/many do it.  Once the engine has been run much I wouldn't want to do it.  The stub of the venturi spot IS very short.  If you plan to make a runner of it I'd consider adding a stub insert with brass tubing and JB Weld to extend something to latch on to with a venturi.  FIRST reach out to Jim Lee at Lee Machine Shop and follow his advice on it.  It might make a decent scale engine but then you'd likely want a carb on it for throttle.  It can be done but you'd need to located a carb that is 'close' to fitting then turn it over to Jim.  He helped get my scale engine set up this way.

Dave
AMA 20934
FAA Certificate FA3ATY4T94
Investing in a Gaza resort if the billionaire doesn't take all my social security check



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