No, it's been messed with by someone. The baffle should definitely be closer to the transfer port.

Another thing I noticed before was that the only marks on the engine were pliers marks on the prop driver - seemed strange.
Now I know why - whoever took it apart also took the piston off the rod, and at least this Enya rod has front/rear configuration - when he put it back together, he unwittingly rotated the rod then installed the piston/head the correct way - Rats! it won't turn past bottom, so try pliers - nope, still won't turn, may break something.....so he rotated piston/head 180 and voila! Now it turns!  
So it was him. 
Probably why I got such a good deal.

But all's well - everything's back as Enyasan intended.

Tomorrow we'll see how it runs.  

Terry

It doesn't like a wet prime.
It dropped ~1K w/igniter removed, picked up when back on - needs a hotter glow plug, right?
After a couple minutes, I tried to pinch it lean and it almost died instead; it leaned w/the needle, richened it back, pinched and it died.
Does that mean anything?

I'm pretty sure that it means that you need to richen it up -- but I'd make sure I had a fresh glow plug in it before drawing conclusions about other symptoms.

Good for you, Jim!  

I richened it up and now it pinches lean, so guess you were right Tim.
It's running ~9.4K, sounds basically blubbery, with a mostly-but-intermittent crackle.
I'm on my own and don't know about engine sounds yet.
Is that what's called 4-stroking w/a wet 2-stroke?
Is that what I want for break-in?
I haven't tried but I suspect with this prop it'd turn well over 13K leaned out.

Terry

I'm not sure if it's 4-stroking then, maybe just a very wet 2-stroke.
If I richen it much it just dies.
Maybe Enyas won't 4-stroke - this is my first experience with one.

I reread the instructions and a 9x4 is recommended for break-in, so I've changed to that.
Confusing - for break-in,  Randy says smaller/flatter (the 8x4 I had on it) for high revs/low load, another knowledgeable source said a larger prop trimmed down for more load/higher temps, and Enya says 9x4.
Guess it's safest to stick w/mfrs. recommendation.

Terry

I also would use an 8x4 to break in an Enya 19 engine. As far as I know most, if not all, engines will run 4 stroke when rich enough.

This engine needs short runs in the beginning. I run 10 times of 1 minute then 8 of 2min, 6 of 3 min and then I jump to  5 runs of 7minutes. Always letting the engine fully cool before starting. When doing the 7 minutes run I pinch the fuel line with care so it will run a bit rich at peak rpm for about 8 seconds and then I release, wait for 20 seconds and repeat the pinching process until the end of the run. I know the engine is broken in when it will keep at peak rpm without sagging, when I release the fuel line the rpm will go back fast and to the exact rpm as before pinching the line, there is no more rpm gain from one set to the other.

Sometimes the engine comes from factory with tight piston/liner fit and it may require a few more runs of 7 minutes as described.

If you let the engine run rich all the time it will never break in and it can seize when you try to fly.

In the beginning it is normal for the rpm to drop when you remove the Glow Plug Battery, internal friction is much higher in this stage. Some tight engines will only run with the Ni Starter in the beginning.

Once you have this engine broken in you can go fly with a 9x4 or 9x5 prop.

Martin

I've run another tankful thru it with the 8x4 prop.
It ran lean when first started (~13.6K) so I richened it to ~11.2K.
And it dropped only ~400 rpm when I removed the igniter.
It takes a quite heavy pinch to lean it out - is 11Kish still too rich maybe?
Also, I need to mix more fuel - I finished up the 0/72/28 I had and Enya says 20% castor, Randy recommends 50/50 oil (I have Klotz) - go with Randy?
Lastly, what's a normal rpm variation for a broken-in engine?

Terry

I've run another tankful thru it with the 8x4 prop.
It ran lean when first started (~13.6K) so I richened it to ~11.2K.
And it dropped only ~400 rpm when I removed the igniter.
It takes a quite heavy pinch to lean it out - is 11Kish still too rich maybe?
Also, I need to mix more fuel - I finished up the 0/72/28 I had and Enya says 20% castor, Randy recommends 50/50 oil (I have Klotz) - go with Randy?
Lastly, what's a normal rpm variation for a broken-in engine?

Terry

HI Terry

Yes you need to use part synth. you can also run more oil than 20%, I would use 24% oil  half and half, or if you want you can use 1/4 synth oil, The 20% is a little lite on oil, especially for breakin, remember  to cycle the motor and run it in a 2 cycle , then back to a 4 cycle, at the point your at now, I would run it in a fast 2 cycle for about 10 seconds, then back richer for about 30 sec, then back into a 2.. repeat this and the engine now should come in fast. If it still wants to hang on to a 2 cycle, and come back slowly to a 4, it need more breakin time

Regards
Randy

My Foxs are happy on Sig Champion 10% nitro, 20% oil, half synthetic, half castor. They run fine on all castor, and more %oil, as everyone else will tell you.  I switched from all castor to the mix and did not notice any loss of compression from the detergent effect of the synthetic. 

Thanks Jim - I like the benefits of synth, but wasn't sure if it may affect longevity, since so many have said all castor for Fox .35s.
But I'm pretty curmudgeonly myself and can sure understand folks hanging onto "that's how we've always done it". 

Terry

The FOX will actually last longer with a Castor synth blend, I use 25% total oil in mine, I still have 2 from the 1970s, one has near 600 flights on it and it is not gummed up or worn out, just do not run a FOX with low oil content, all synth with low oil, all castor with low oil, or try to run them sceaming lean.

Randy

Terry I'll try the other two.  For the first question lets understand when a 'break ' is expected to happen.  In the classic sense when the nose of the airplane is raised the engine leans and breaks from a four cycle into a two which adds power for the climbing portion of manuevers then backs down for the diving portion and level flight.  The exact timing or speed this happens based on your needle settlng, load on the engine, prop, fuel etc. so that one can't simply quantify a 'break speed'.  None of this is to be known or changed until you are actually flying the airplane and to be honest,  isn't something you should invest much time worrying about at this point.  The engine will do its thing as you will be doing yours.  You can 't and shouldn't try to change its natural functions at this point.  Your emphasis needs to be on learning to fly and not so much the minute details of the engine function.  It 'll do its part.  
The other question... When an engine is still too new and tight it may run a little hotter due to friction.  This will cause gaining rpm and running away.  Sometimes the added prop speed then cools the engine some and it slows down.  The engine should be ready when it will hold a fairly steady rpm through a full tank on the stand without these very obvious changes.  Note this might be confused with the engine gaining a little rpm as the tank empties and gravity/ pressure on the fuel diminishes.  The main concern is that you don't want the engine to heat up and go screaming lean out at the end of the lines where you can't do much about it ,  watching and hearing your engine burn up while waiting for it to run out of fuel.  If the engine will hold a richer setting then it ready to start flying.  I'm one who thinks that an engine is never completely broken in until it gets a little air time, loading and unloading with temperature variations.  The test stand is nessessary but is a little too controlled environment for a total run I .
By the way... Welcome aboard... Glad you are here.
Dave

You will fit right in with this bunch perfectly.  Stay in touch.

Dave

As a tad, my brother and I flew 1/2A - just cranked up to a scream and let go (sound familiar to anyone?  ).
We ruined engines, no doubt, but we could afford a couple $2 OKs a summer.
So it's not that I'm stuck on the break, I basically understand it's use in maneuvers, I'm just new to breaking in as much as anything.

And reading that iron/steel cross-scavenged engines like the Enya needs heat/cool cycles, I didn't even know how to "hear" 4-stroking, or if I need to cycle from that to a heating 2-stroke, or from a wet 2-stroke (which I'm still not sure about) to a lean 2-stroke - that one I knew. 

I'm very grateful for all that you guys have shared with me and I'll keep in mind your advice.
In fact, I plan this on a Flite Streak ARF, so I may need it's 2-stroke power.
I hafta (re)learn how to go around in circles without crashing me or the plane before 4-2 breaks become any concern. 

Terry

Suggestion: Put it on the airplane with a 9x4 prop, APCs  usually work well. Use a fuel with a high oil content, 25% total oil, around 70% of castor until it is well broken in. Wait until those local guys show up and give it a try. They should be able to tell right away if all is well. IMHO 12.4-13.5 is too high of RPM for this engine unless you are going racing, even for break-in. Look for a stable run in the 10,400 -11,200 range. The older Enyas aren't known for being great 4x2x4 engines, in fact no .19 size engine is particulary effective when running that way so go with a rich 2 stroke run. What does that sound like?, not screaming but steady and strong. You will know it when you get there. Oh, and don't worry about fuel coming out of the exhaust at start up. If it's starting, you are not too rich (or it wouldn't start!). If RPM decreases significantly when the battery is removed...change the plug.

Thanks Pete & Brett.
I can sure do lower rpm, I have that prop & fuel and new plugs are on the way.
Still need to refinish & assemble the plane.
Luckily, my bud is soon moving to just a few mins away and he says there's a private flying site quite close.  

Terry