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Engine basics => Engine set up tips => Topic started by: frank mccune on August 28, 2019, 11:35:42 AM
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Hi All:
How do you store metal tanks to help to prevent nastiness from forming in the inside of the tank?
Tia,
Frank McCune
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I don't, but that's a good thought.
I'd go for a sealed plastic bag, possibly with a dessicant pack in it.
Or just buy a bunch of tin sheet, and make them as you need them.
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I haven’t tried it myself but the old Windy videos had him storing them full of fresh fuel.
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The alcohol in model fuel will still attract moisture if the tank isn't securely sealed. Coleman lantern fuel or similar is compatible with glow fuel and if you don't get it completely empty, will still run through with the next couple of tank fulls.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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Frank, are you talking about your hoard of new tanks, or the in-use tanks on your horde of stunters?
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Hi Tim:
Thanks for the reply.
I am asking about both. I opened some old tanks that were not performing very well. I discovered a black and hard deposits on the brass tubing and extending into the tubing. This was quite difficult to remove! I have also seen external pick up an vent lines clogged with this same corruption.
Hey Tim, what makes you think that I have hoards of tanks and stutters? Lol
I know a chap who does nothing to his engines after they have been run. No cleaning or oil. He has been treating his engines in this manner for decades. They start in a few flips and run perfectly! I can not argue with that!
Be well,
Frank McCune
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Hello
I have seen lots of rusty tanks but the most troublesome tank was made of thin galvanized metal that clogged everything with Zinc oxide. Here in Auckland New Zealand it is a great place to make tanks rust and I have squirted ATF into tanks to stop this.
Just flush with fresh fuel before using and had no problems with this method. Also rub a bit of ATF on the outside to preserve it too.
Regards Gerald
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I haven’t tried it myself but the old Windy videos had him storing them full of fresh fuel.
I would advise against that, The nitro WILL eat/corrode the tubing, and the alcohol will attract water
It is best to store by draining the tank, then put in about an ounce of after run oil, shake vigorously
Randy
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Good discussion. The "ounce of air tool oil or atf" approach sounds good, especially the part about brushing the exterior of the tank.
Curious: Would the "antifreeze in the crock pot" cleaning method work on tanks? It works great on engine varnish.
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Thanks for the nitro advice Randy.
In answer to the crock pot question I would think that it would be worth a try.
Not mentioned in earlier posts but if rusting from poorly cleaned soldering is encountered I would strongly recommend immersing the tank in “evaporust” or equivalent product. I have had excellent results using this product in many mechanical and hobby restoration projects.
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The very top AMA speed flier (Jerry Rocha from Napa,CA) uses metal tanks. He finds that filling them with Mobil Jet II turbine oil when they are not being used solves the problem.
He seems to think that doing this inhibits any possible further internal corrosion from taking place.
To say he's very successful is an understatement. Something to think about perhaps.
Cheers, Paul
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First of all, replace the brass tubes with copper. Fuel eats brass (no, I don’t know why). I use acetone to fill the tank and then cap it off.
After run oil sounds like a great alternative. Harbor Freight air tool oil is my ARO of choice. Cheap and I get all these 20% off plus free stuff coupons. :D