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Engine basics => Engine set up tips => Topic started by: steven yampolsky on April 17, 2013, 10:30:15 PM
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I have a pipe with an exhaust stinger pointing straight back. I would like to move sot that the stinger exits at an angle. I also want to make a stinger 1.5" long too.
Can someone help me answer a few questions:
1) What kind of resin can I use to patch up the hole after I cut off the stinger? I
2) What can I use to make the new stinger? Can I use a regular CF tube? What ID does it need to be?
I would also appreciate any pointers on how to get this done properly.
The pipe is one of those long and skinny ones used for 40VF's.
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I have a pipe with an exhaust stinger pointing straight back. I would like to move sot that the stinger exits at an angle. I also want to make a stinger 1.5" long too.
Can someone help me answer a few questions:
1) What kind of resin can I use to patch up the hole after I cut off the stinger? I
2) What can I use to make the new stinger? Can I use a regular CF tube? What ID does it need to be?
I would also appreciate any pointers on how to get this done properly.
The pipe is one of those long and skinny ones used for 40VF's.
You can probably use a graphite arrowshaft with at least 5/16 ID, and JB Weld. I wouldn't make it 1.5" long! But what is wrong with a conventional stinger?
Brett
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They make clamp on silicone exhaust diverters for this application.
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But what is wrong with a conventional stinger?
The tunnel back wall former is 1" from the tip of the pipe. Rubber deflector binds restricting the flow.
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I recall seeing Howard with a "Utah Pipe" with dual exhaust on his RO-Jett. One was aluminum tubing, could have been from the LHS or some high-tech chit, but it looked like it was installed with (slow) JB Weld. Be sure to let it cure the required time, lest it spew sparks f~ of molten epoxy with the rest of the exhaust residue. You might email Howard or maybe whoever bought Howard's IC stuff could chime in. H^^ Steve
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I think I used a piece of flap torque tube for the second exhaust. It was made from 350-degree prepreg, so heat was no problem. JB Weld should work just fine that far back, particularly with a VF. Email me your postal address, Steve, and I'll send you some bits.
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/20/u7a4a5yr.jpg)
How's this for an attempt? The stinger is flush with the pipe surface. Do you think it will work? ID is 3/8
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/20/u7a4a5yr.jpg)
How's this for an attempt? The stinger is flush with the pipe surface. Do you think it will work? ID is 3/8
You already did it so it will work. Looks pretty cool.
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/20/u7a4a5yr.jpg)
How's this for an attempt? The stinger is flush with the pipe surface. Do you think it will work? ID is 3/8
Steve
That will work, but maybe not for long, The brass will come loose normally, The best thing to do this with is a carbon tube or Cf golfshaft, arrowshaft, scuffed up very well, next would be a thinwall al. tube, scuffed very well.
You may get 25 flights or several 100, but as I have seen over the years brass is not a good material for this application.
Good luck with it
Randy
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Howard Rush sent me proper bits to use. Thank you Howard!(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/03/ujuqy8yq.jpg)
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I've had some poor luck adding an extension to my RO-Jett aluminum muffler. The exhaust aluminum exit tubing is very short, and those rubber doo-dads held on by ty-wraps don't hold well.
What finally worked was some brass tubing with a 2-56 bolt through the joint and some JB Weld. Note: vibration + heat will weaken a JB Weld joint. So the bolt is necessary.
Floyd