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Engine basics => Engine set up tips => Topic started by: Victor Jeffreys on January 23, 2010, 07:27:25 PM
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I just acquired a bunch of McCoy (Duromatic early 60s??--no Testor lightning bolts on polished aluminum crankcase) red head .19 sport/stunt engines and bone yard of same). They've cleaned up nicely and are tight, slick, smooth, and low mileage, but it is apparent that previous owner/owners have disassembled engines and there are few areas where one can re-assemble things bass akwards if they don't have knowledge or good technical drawings/instructions.
So here goes:
1) Does piston/cylinder head baffle lay to the intake by-pass port side or to the exhaust port side of crankcase?
2) The cylinder can be installed into crankcase in 2 orientations. One cylinder port is cut slightly lower and wider than the opposite port. Which is exhaust and which is intake by-pass port?
3) What to use (composition and thickness range) for head gasket, cylinder to crankcase gasket, and backplate gasket material)
4 What is the correct "aim" for the single orifice spaybar? (straight down vertical, lineally oriented to venturi throat angle, or horizontal)
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I've had several engines like that pass through my hands. I like the McCoy 19's. The baffle goes over by the bypass. The lower port in the cylinder goes by the bypass. If you need gaskets, The head and cylinder gaskets should be @ 1/32 thick. Like the old Perfect gasket material. The backplate gasket can be thinner. There should be a plastic plug in the back of the crank pin. Point the spraybar hole down just past where you can see it. Run a 9 x 5 prop and fuel with at least 20% oil, at least half castor. More castor won't hurt.
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Thank you very much Jim. One of these engines does not have the plastic (Delrin??) crankpin plug and some slight scratching is evident on backplate cover from this. I doubt that this item is easy to find. Possible solutions??
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Victor, working recently on a couple of redhead .35's and i lost one of the inserts. My friend made one out of a piece of teflon he had laying around. It was very tedious and took quite some time, but that is one solution.
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Thanks Ray. I live in B'town btw.
Back to Jim--Re: spraybar orifice orientation. So if I'm viewing the exhaust port (R/H) side of engine; the orifice would be aimed at approx. 8 o'clock or approx. 4 o'clock?
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Not sure if one is better than the other, and doubt you could tell the difference on a McCoy 19.. Actually, so far as it goes, if you can't see the hole, the engine will run fine.
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I had several of the teflon inserts fot the back of the crankshaft made (I think Scott Reise made them. I probably can find one or two in the junk barrel. I have also seen those brass rivits that are used to hold the standard drum brake linings to the shoes used instead of nylon or teflon.
E-Mail me if you want one of the Teflon ones (if I can find them).
Bigiron
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Thank you very much Jim. One of these engines does not have the plastic (Delrin??) crankpin plug and some slight scratching is evident on backplate cover from this. I doubt that this item is easy to find. Possible solutions??
Victor.....AS I collect McCoy's and Have rebuilt many I make all the parts you are looking for. I make the Wrist pin pads for the McCoy series 21 and I make the Crank button for the Red Heads, AND all of the gaskets.
Scott Riese
riese5080@comcast.net