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Author Topic: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup  (Read 2741 times)

Online Dennis Toth

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Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« on: January 17, 2013, 07:44:01 AM »
Guys,
I have been fighting a setting problem on my OTS Ringmaster with an old OS 25 baffle motor. The motor has very good compression, starts with one flip, has no shaft wear, should be great. The motor run is all over the place, sometimes way lean, if I open it up it goes sloppy rich then comes in late in the flight. I have checked for dirt in the NVA (none), changed filter, plug and fuel (even tried Byron fuel) same result. I am going over the motor and checking for air leaks around the NVA found none. Last hope is to check tightness of head bolts and backplate (there is some spot of baked oil on the head).

If none of the above work out I want a Plan B - change the motor and tank. I have a fairly new OS FP 25 and 2030 muffler and a Hayes 3 oz tank. I have read the posts on this setup and seems a 9x4 prop at around 10K should work. Question is how is the tank setup for the muffler pressure? I understand to mount it with the "foot" down, that would put the two vent tubes at the top, that's OK. To hook up the pressure line do you just use one of them and cap the other? How does that work on outsides and inverted? Or do you add a curved tube to put the vent to the inside edge and keep it open? A picture would be a great help. HB~>

Thanks,        DennisT

Offline Dennis Moritz

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Re: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2013, 08:00:35 AM »
Air leak in tank or fuel line? Bad profile vibes? Loose engine bolts? Karma. Crankcase leak or backplate leak. Erratic run often an air leak of some kind.

Offline Joseph Lijoi

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Re: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« Reply #2 on: January 17, 2013, 09:26:57 AM »
My understanding is the set up for the Kraft Hayes 3 oz tank out there is suction, not pressure.  Check me on this.  I think this tank is no longer available.  If you want a plastic clunk tank with three holes in it that you can set up for presure the Hangar 9 one that came with the PT 19 is about the same size.

Look for bubbles in your fuel line when the engine is running.  If you see them you have a leak in the tank.  More than likely you have a vibration a problem.  Try some foam under the tank.  You may have a weak nose.  Vibration is evil.

Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2013, 09:54:28 AM »
This looks pretty available to me: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK826&P=7.

I drill out the vent, put muffler pressure into the lower vent, fill into the muffler pressure or the fuel feed line, and cap the upper vent for flying.  On an FP 20 and a LA 25 I get wonderful engine runs.
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The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Offline Joseph Lijoi

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Re: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« Reply #4 on: January 17, 2013, 10:12:21 AM »
This looks pretty available to me: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK826&P=7.

I drill out the vent, put muffler pressure into the lower vent, fill into the muffler pressure or the fuel feed line, and cap the upper vent for flying.  On an FP 20 and a LA 25 I get wonderful engine runs.

Ok good to know.  Thanks Tim

Online Brett Buck

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Re: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2013, 10:14:19 AM »
If none of the above work out I want a Plan B - change the motor and tank. I have a fairly new OS FP 25 and 2030 muffler and a Hayes 3 oz tank. I have read the posts on this setup and seems a 9x4 prop at around 10K should work.

  I haven't used the Hayes tank, but look up The Dirt's directions. With a 25FP, 10K and a 9-4 will be dead rich. It may work sometimes but I would expect that it would have an extreme tendency to run away (and by run away, I mean run like it was intended). Peaked out with a 9-4 is about 15,000 RPM or so, backed off from that into a stable run setting it's going to be around 13,000. That will give you about 3.5 or so second laps. I would expect the airplane to be way too fast with the 25FP. I have flown a Ringmaster in the low 3 second range and it was rather difficult to control at that speed. That was a Veco 19 and a 10-5. It was about 4.2 with a 10-4, which was better. Figure the 25FP has half again the power. A 15FP is a lot closer to what you need.

    Brett

Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« Reply #6 on: January 17, 2013, 10:15:30 AM »
You are running a filter between tank and needle valve, yes?

Not running a filter can cause all sorts of odd engine-setting problems that just go away as soon as you stick a filter in there.
AMA 64232

The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« Reply #7 on: January 17, 2013, 10:20:21 AM »
A 15FP is a lot closer to what you need.

I run my (way overweight: 34 oz) Ringmaster on an FP 20, 60 foot lines, and get about 4.7 second laps.

A flying buddy is running his on an LA 25 with a 10-4, 60 foot lines, and is getting about 4.8 seconds.

The FP 20 engine is certainly at the top end of the horsepower range for the Ring; I'm not sure how an FP 15 (did they make them?) would go, but if you built an airplane instead of a brick it may be a great combination.
AMA 64232

The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Offline Joseph Lijoi

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Re: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2013, 10:46:36 AM »
Your problem is vibration/fuel foaming.  Armor all in the fuel, foam rubber, these are some options.  Your old OS is probably fine.  You have seemed to eliminate all the other issues.  Run the old OS with the tank on the test stand.  Look for bubbles in the line.

Vibration is a beast and can be pretty deceptive.  In worst case situations you will not even get a needle, let alone a good run.  You will spend hours looking at the tank/engine when the problem is right under your nose. :)

Offline Joe Yau

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Re: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« Reply #9 on: January 17, 2013, 01:09:43 PM »
Here's a pic of The Dirt's FP-20 set up when he was up here at our 08's contest.. (Hayes tank is mounted upright, not side ways.  preasure is up top) you could ignore the nva set up.. ;)


Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« Reply #10 on: January 17, 2013, 01:17:37 PM »
you could ignore the nva set up.. ;)

I don't know why Dirt likes to use multiple needle valves.  But I use the (one) remote needle valve that came with my FP 20, and the only problem that I ever had with was that normal sized fuel tubing would slip off at highly inconvenient times.  But I have never, ever, had that needle get damaged in an inverted landing -- even over pavement.

Yes, there are slight handling and consistency advantages to using a regular needle valve.  But they're teeny compared to getting the tank set up right and using a filter and all that other essential stuff.  So if you're still in your "Sir Crashalot" stage, I highly recommend the remote needle.
AMA 64232

The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Online Dennis Toth

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Re: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« Reply #11 on: January 17, 2013, 01:49:00 PM »
Guys,
I have the armoral in the fuel (base fuel is Sig 5% with a little added Castor to bring it to 26%), didn't see any bubbles in the fuel line, prop is balanced, motor is not shaking around, tank is tight. The current prop is a top flite 9x6 launch at 9100 ish. I am going to pull the engine and do the soap bubble test on the head and backplate. Anything else worth trying?


Best,     DennisT

Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« Reply #12 on: January 17, 2013, 02:21:02 PM »
Dennis:

The manual that I have for that engine says that it wants a 9-5 or a 10-4 prop; part of your problem may be that you have too much prop for it.

I know I'm harping on this, but you didn't mention the fuel filter -- if you're not using one, get one.
AMA 64232

The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Offline Dennis Moritz

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Re: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« Reply #13 on: January 17, 2013, 02:27:03 PM »
Did you change the tank yet? Whenever we experience weirdness in the engine run, one of the first moves is to disconnect muffler pressure. Especially if the tank is plumbed for uniflo. This has settled down more than one engine. We theorize that the air bubbles fed near the pickup are exaggerating any vibration issues. With non-uniflo you might experience the gradual leaning out of the engine during the flight as the fuel head diminishes. If all else is working fairly well, it is possible to compensate for this. Bad vibrations can usually be felt throughout the airframe. If you are not feeling this, again, check tank and plumbing. Was tank checked underwater with pressure. Even a thin trail of bubbles can cause difficulties. We pressurize tanks, when testing for leaks, using a syringe pushed down as hard as we can. Also it is possible that the pickup tube or another tube is moving around or cracked. Either situation can lead to erratic running.

I have used chicken hopper tanks with great success on short nosed profiles. I've had good luck with the tanks made by RSM. They have always arrived within a week of my placing an order.

Online Dennis Toth

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Re: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« Reply #14 on: January 18, 2013, 08:26:05 AM »
Guys,
I pulled the engine off the ship and checked for leaks. I think I found it. Seems the exhaust flange was not even, the bottom edge had some slight unevenness. The rest of the engine was tight. I reinstalled the muffler with high temp sealer, will test later today. If it still is inconsistent I will pull the muffler pressure. Hope this works I'm off the KOI.

Best,          DennisT

Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« Reply #15 on: January 19, 2013, 05:09:01 PM »
IMO, it's best to have metal/metal (no gasket or sealer) on your muffler/engine joint if you are going to run muffler pressure, and a really solid muffler mount. If it comes loose, blows the gasket or the sealer starts to leak, you get a bad lean run. I hate that!

If you are going to run the Hayes tank, I'd set it up "foot" down and muffler pressure or uniflow vent the top spigot, filling through the middle spigot (the one you have to drill through to open it up).

Those OS NV's have a failure mode where they look ok but are bent or leaky or something (after a crash), and don't work for beans. I avoid them entirely. Check with Randy Smith for the finest NV Assy you can get. Tell him what you want to put it in and I think he can provide a PA type NV Assy. to fit it.  H^^ Steve
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Offline Ward Van Duzer

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Re: Hayes 3 oz muffler presure hookup
« Reply #16 on: January 21, 2013, 07:48:16 AM »
On rare occaisions a particular engine/model (not model design) combination will set up a harmonic imbalance that will cause (bad) vibrations as the engine rpm's go up in flight. Looks good on the ground, goes wacko in the air! Change the engine!

W.
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