I use Crap-Traps

I like the 2-part aluminum filters that Richard Oliver sells. $5 each, 5 for $20. If it gets dirty, just cleanthe filter screen, screw it back together, and go.

A lot of folks like the crap trap, but I've been driven nuts twice by "leakers". You don't want your filters to leak air into the fuel line.

ASK ME HOW I KNOW?

I use the aluminum screw apart ones that I can clean.  Mine come from H&R Engineering.

I've had one crap trap which leaked.  Tied it down on each end with wire and fixed that.  It is on my test stand tank.

Didn't relate the info to Melvin of MBS Model Supply, but, I had a plane that was not adjustable.  John and I started looking for leaks in fuel line, tank and needle valve assembly.  Finally checked the fuel filter and sure enough it a very small leak.  Took it apart to check it.  Then tightened it back together with a hefty wrench and pliers.  No more problems.  Another time it was a small cut in the fuel line on a plane that would start and run for a couple of laps and then quit.  My son found that one.  Later,  DOC Holliday

Personally,I dont use a filter between the tank and the engine.I filter it at the syringe inlet then switch to another filter at the outlet,or I use a smaller fuel jug that has a built in filter. The only problem I have had was self induced from not flushing the flux out of the tank after soldering. This way I can eliminate any posible filter problem if I have a bad engine run.Just a thought.

Jim,
There is still the possibility of debris from the tank such as plating flaking off or dried up castor.  While it is true that not having a filter reduces one element in bad engine runs, if there is enough debris to plug the filter, it will plug the needle valve.  A good filter installation is good insurance.  I really like the little RO Jett filters, but slip a piece of large fuel tubing over the filter to assure no leaks.
Steve