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Engine basics => Engine set up tips => Topic started by: Bob Disharoon on April 01, 2007, 03:43:02 PM
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fox 35
2 hole spray bar, holes facing correctly
profile mount
brodak 3 inch tank on a buster, pickup mounted @3/8 above spraybar centerline, no pressure, nothing plugged
new fox long glowplug
engine stars easily on prime, stops
needle richened.. 6 to 7 turns
engine runs longer, gradually dies after 15 to 30 sec.
onlooker said tank was a blur when running..mucho vibration
need to solve this....maybe mount tank on a foam layer?
Frustrated old retread, tryin to get goin for Brodak! n~
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Bob: Thats what I use, I use the foam out of ST engine box packing. The black stuff, My K&B 35 Stallion acted the same way when I put the foam under the tank against the fusalage (profile) it ran fine. I know it's to late now but I also put in longer motor mounts.
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Bob,
Can you run it on the beach? Off the plane?
Do you have a filter installed?
I am no expert, but maybe start with the tank setup at center line of the NVA. 3/8 in seems a little high.
Good luck! Hope to see you at Brodaks.
Paul
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Leester..wll do in the a.m.
got the foam from old engine boxes keep ya posted..thanx in advance, cause I know youve got the CURE!..BOB H^^
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Rootbeard..I spent a coupla hours ready every old thread on the board and , if I remember correctly, the main reply was to elevate said tank above nva for some sort of inverted flying quantum physics sort of thing that I couldnt wrap my brain around..these guys around here are NOT dumb, 4 sure!!
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It sounds like you aren't able to get into 4-stroke mode --it is dying lean. Make sure your needle is sealed. A piece of fuel tubing over the threads may help a lot. Any air leaking by the threads will just kill fuel draw.
Also I assume it is already broken in.
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One item not yet mentioned is the possibility that the spray bar is partially clogged. That could cause the symptoms you describe: "Runs a few seconds when NV is opened correctly; runs longer when NV is opened a lot more". And I'd be strongly tempted to replace the Fox plug with a K&B 1L or some other similar hot plug; Fox QC doesn't always show up for work . . .
For tank insulation, I've had good luck using the thin (1/4") "bubble wrap".
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thanx...its dying rich, 4 sure..dial it in lean and slow death..also, spray bar is clean as a whistle..I think Im really close to solving this..keep writing..it keeps an old man alive....remember,now..if it aint right by Brodak...its your fault..by the way, wheres Billy G to join in on this?!? n1 n1
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Alan..I will also follow your advice in the a.m... good advice, thanx
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Bob;
I'm right here been watchin for a while now--------you don't need me you got a lot of help and they haven't given you any bum scoop yet. Keep after it you are on the right track.
"Billy G" S?P
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I shouda known you were lurkin out there..are we gonna see you at carmicheals?..sure hope so, now we can recocnize you !!!!!!!
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Bob;
You betca bippy I'll be there. Wouldn't miss it for the world. Now you get back to what you are doin with that Fox .35, show us what you're made of.
"Billy G" na#
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Try turning the prop 180º.
Willis ;)
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I have found if you are running uniflow that 3/8" above center line is about right for a profile and Fox 35, but with a standard vent tank I mount the tank about on the center line. This also helps eliminate the Fox burp for some reason. On uniflow they burp, and standard vent they do not.
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DARN Jim now you done let our sekrit out on the burp
Bigiron
Another thing If the engine is not THOROUGHLY broken in it sometimes vibrates. Installing a Stuffer backplate helps the vibration problem some too.
B
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Marvin, Does it take about an hour to an hour and a half to break in a good Fox 35 on the bench?
Bill <><
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The engine is a vertical 2 bolt muffler job which, I think, is 60s 0r 70s vintage..bought it fron a guy who flew it plenty and loved it..cant talk further . gotta work this out before Billy g catches me HB~> n1
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Marvin, Does it take about an hour to an hour and a half to break in a good Fox 35 on the bench?
Bill <><
Bill it depends a lot on the vintave of the engine. A new 50th anniversary takes only a few tanks to get it broken in (less than 30 minutes) while a really good 40th anniversary usually takes a half gallon of fuel and I have seen some of the earlier versions that took a gallon or more.
As the engine reaches the end of the tank and leans out to die, if it slows from tightness any at all, it needs more breakin.
Fox 35s are funny creatures that way.
Bigiron
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Bill it depends a lot on the vintave of the engine. A new 50th anniversary takes only a few tanks to get it broken in (less than 30 minutes) while a really good 40th anniversary usually takes a half gallon of fuel and I have seen some of the earlier versions that took a gallon or more.
As the engine reaches the end of the tank and leans out to die, if it slows from tightness any at all, it needs more breakin.
Fox 35s are funny creatures that way.
Bigiron
Thanks, Bigiron. I have known the older Foxes to take quite a while to break in, didn't know that the new one doesn't!
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The engine is a vertical 2 bolt muffler job which, I think, is 60s 0r 70s vintage..bought it fron a guy who flew it plenty and loved it..cant talk further . gotta work this out before Billy g catches me HB~> n1
Im still watchin ya, you're doin OK LOL "Billy G"
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Now how did I know that.........yur breathin too hard
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You may have a bad tank, some time's the copper tubing inside the spilt. I would check the tank.
Jim
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Old mouse pads make good vibration dampers. But I like to load the back of the tank up with GE Seal and squish it down on waxed paper until the silicone is about a 1/4 in thick at the rear of the tank, and an 1/8 of an inch on the front. Let it cure overnight and cut off the excess from around the edges.
Also helps to use a good metal filter. Bubbles don't go through the screen! :!
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I stole one the wifes scrubbing pads..the green one thats 2/3 sponge and 1/3 foamlike scub stuff{for those stubborn stains}, cut it to shape and stuck it firmly on back..we will see
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Hi Bob;
I know you have thought of this already buuuuut you better check the foam part of that pad to see if it is user friendly aka FUEL PROOF. Don't ask how I know.
"Billy G" D>K D>K D>K More coffee please
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I remember now, The bottom muffler screw hole is taped through the case and you are losing crank case pressure. I had a friend have that problem 15 or 20 years ago and took fore ever to find it.
Willis ;DInsert Quote
The engine is a vertical 2 bolt muffler job
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So the solution would be plug the hole with a machine screw? I ran it with a muffler and it was doing the same thing, though.
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Good point Billy..in my hurry to go with the first fix I could think of, didnt consider the fuel issue..guess Im back to my hole to do some sperimentin. D>K
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One more thing..I know the pad is wife proof..isnt that enuff? ~^
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Hey, Bob - keep a eye on your mailbox. n~ n~
Soon you will see a box containing 3 little animals - very nice ones at that! ~^ ~^
Priority mail, of course. y1 y1
Bob Z.
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Thanks!..like a kid before xmas #^ #^ #^ #^
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Bob,
...worst case: consider strapping the tank on with rubber bands. Anything 'harder' transmits much vibration...
Also, 3/8" seems a bit much to me. I seldom need more than 1/4" to lock the RPM/airspeed the same both ways.
Somewhere in here is my description of a "wig-wag method" to check tank height before a first flight. If you run through that, the engine should run decently upright and inverted, NOT cut out, and be within a whisker of the final 'height' locaton.
Luck!