Given that the displacement is less, but the piston is lighter, will the output be the same?
My purpose for buying it when I found it listed on here or Stuka Stunt Classifieds was just to build a smother, more durable engine. Many moons ago, when I was first starting to try to fly stunt, running and working on the engines was one attraction. I had raced off road motorcycles and go-karts, and always have done most of my own work on all my cars, so trying to get the best performance out of my engines just came with the program.
I started with the Fox .35 for the most part, like a lot of people. You don't have to run them for very long before you realize that they vibrate a lot. All that shaking makes the fuel foam and there were lots of "cures" for that but I like to fix the problem, not address a symptom. Allthat shaking is also hard on air frames!! Between reading a lot, talking to people and observing others, I began to pick up on little things. (Remember, this was pre-internet!!) I was already a believer in taking care of little details and being thorough. In talking with fellow club member Gary Frost ( a noted combat flier) he showed me how to go through a Fox .35 and "'detail " it for better operation. This included some work on the crankshaft to smooth the engine out some. Lots of little things, that when all done in concert, help to make a better running engine. I'm not talking about faster, more horsepower, or anything like that, just smoother and more consistent , and that equates to better. Again, this was all before the internet, and at contests and in magazine columns and such I heard about these plasma lined cylinders, but I couldn't just run down to Wal-Mart and buy some!. When the internet did come around I learned a little more and by the time I decided I wanted to try these, Tony Cincotta had either stopped making them or had passed away. I came across this set second of third hand and picked it up, and stashed it with my Fox engine stash of parts. I rediscovered it and decided now was the time to use it while I was building up some ABC Fox .35s using Brian Gardner parts. After getting the parts out and going through what was in the envelope, there were no instructions, so I want to make sure I do this correctly. At the time these were made, I can see why a person might make them available with no rod or wrist pin to keep the cost down and simplify things, if there was an easy way for the buyer to do what he needed to do to make a stock wrist pin work. I just didn't realize how long ago these things were made!! The ABC technology and CNC machining capabilities made things much more simple. In searching out information here on Stunthanger, all the threads concerning Tony Cincotta and his products were quite old, but with enough information to come to some conclusions. These may not be any better or worse than ABC parts, but I got them, so might as well use them! No need top save them for "later" because later is here! So in short, just using these parts by themselves won't make a huge difference, but using them or the ABC parts, combined with all the other little tricks of the trade, just make for a better engine run. It's relatively easy to do, and pretty satisfying when you are finished and get to hear, see and feel the difference in how they run. They are great for OTS models and the smaller of the classic size models. And since it's late, I'm not going to get into a long explanation of what I do, but in short, it's mostly what Larry Foster used to do when building his L&J Fox .35s, but by substituting the piston and liner with the ABC or plasma sets, that eliminates some work and adds to the longevity of the engine.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
Topic: Fox .35 Plasma Piston and Liner Set Information (Read 9462 times)