Looking at the schematic for the transfer port block, I get the feeling that the sliver of wood does not cover the entire port (in a front to back dimension).  Is this true?  If so, why?

C R

Does the piece of hardwood block the entire port, or just part of it?

Saw the following in an old thread. Are more details available? Such as: to what diameter can we ream the venturi? Can sandblasting be sufficient to roughen up the inside of the case?   What size hole to drill the old port in the con rod?  How to true up the mounting lugs.   Still cold in N.E. and I have access to a machine shop . ...

C R

"All of the comments in this thread are interesting. Since Larry Foster made over 1800 L&J Fox .35 over the years he and I worked together on them I think I can outline fairly accurately what he did to these engines.

Crank case:
1) machine bottom of mounting lugs to keep case from twisting when bolted to engine mounts.
2) ream out venture to create larger volume due to increased diameter of ST spray bar
3) run a broach groove just inside the bronze bushing and attach to oil spillway to stop the fuel from blowing out the front end due to wear on the bushing. Creates suction pulling fuel back from front end and stops the normal "Fox .35 wet front end".
4) partially fill bypass port to reduce volume.
5) rough up inside of crank case to improve fuel air mixture.

Con Rod:
1) drill small hole in con rod end to properly lubricate rod connection to the wrist pin on top and bottom

Crank shaft:
1) balance shaft to reduce vibration
NOTE; both Larry and I agreed that the Hi Zoot was a better unit since it was heat treated after machining where the standard Fox crank became a little bit weaker after he balanced it. Only problem with the Hi Zoot was the diameter was more consistent that the bushing in the engine so fit could sometimes be a problem.

Piston/Liner:
1) never use a Fox re-run piston/liner assembly.
2) swap out pistons and liners to insure proper fit (this is where the over sized pistons came in)
3) Hand lap the pistons to the liner
NOTE: when the AAC and Ceramic P&L's came available use these instead of the stock P&L's.
4) Do not change the porting just clean up any rough edges with polishing.

Install ST.51 needle valve assembly.
Install Fox Stuffer back plate and use a custom laser cut gasket.
Install L&J designed and RSM manufactured hemi head
Replace soft fillister head bolts with Socket heads in both head and back plate. Properly torque the bolts to insure proper fit.

This is what was done on all of the L&J Fox .35 engines.

The final thing was to use only fuel with a minimum of 27% castor oil and 10% nitro. For higher elevations use 15% nitro. Larry and I found that if you used 5% nitro fuel you could not get sufficient lube and this resulted in burning out the con rod ends. Going to 10 or 15% nitro meant running more fuel for a flight but thereby getting sufficient lubrication into the engine to reduce wear.

I hope this data is of help to all interested parties. Although I no longer have a stock of the L&J hemi heads I certainly have the AutoCAD drawing and if there is sufficient interest in obtaining these I can have a new batch run up. Just be aware that in order to keep a reasonable price we will have to get a minimum of 500 of these made up.

Regards
Eric Rule"