Loosen the nut as far as it will go, then give it a slight tap. It is wedged against the venturi.
    Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

Thanks Dan.  I got the threaded half out but the other one is locked in.  I tried a bit of heat and a drift but it won't budge. The previous owner(s) may have lock tited it. Next bearing change (if I have it that long) will  be the fix. It has the smaller venturi in anyway.

I'm confused by "the other one is locked in". "The threaded half" suggests that the draw bolt is broken in half at the thin spot.  Steve

Yea , ive seen ' two piece ' clamp bars . But a flat punch , on a normal one , with a light tap from a moderate size hammer SQUARE , etc . Maybe with the nut still on but loose .
As you just want to free it , NOT jam it the other side etc . The two piece , a tap or two on the carb ( wiggle ) with a wood protector . Or a tap DOWN on the cab , ( protector again )
as there should be a little give in the ' O ' ring . ( unless its miniscule ) As you want to ' break the seal ' as it were , either way . If you rotated the carb , with a cresent ( shifter )
youd turn it away from  the nut end , to free it . As into it would draw it tighter , perhaps .  So clamping ONE LUG in a protector in a vice CAREFULLY , so its ridgid, motor flat not
upright , you can ' crack ' it loose , as theres no wasted movement . The short sharp shock , treatment . NOT the crush the case in the vice game ! Pin Punch is the term .



Just a TAP with it held ridgid . Like packers here & there , flat on a hard bench , so as its held LEVEL so as theres NO wasted motion . Whichll screw things up for sure . Like rusty bolts .

Youmight end up sacrificing the cinch clamp , if is never been out before , asin it might catch a burr or two .