There is absolutely no mention of a recommended Break-In in the Owners Manual that comes with the engine.

How did those running them treat this?

Thanks
Bill

 Excerpt from article:   

When you  use motors for the first time, you should also make sure you have the motor properly broken in.  This will range from six tanks of fuel for one engine to almost two gallons for others.  OS, for example, says two hours running time for their motors. A good break-in procedure is to use the same fuel as you will for your Stunt run ,and try to do your break-in on a bench; this is a lot better and an easier way to do a proper break-in.  A diameter, one inch smaller than you plan to run at, at a 3 or 4 pitch, should be the prop to use.  This will let the motor turn many revolutions more per motor run time.  Start out in a very sloppy four-cycle for cast iron lapped piston and  most ringed motors, slowly progressing to the fastest it will run in a four-cycle, then put it in a short two-cycle burst for short times.  After the correct amount of time it should be able to run in a two-cycle without heating up and going leaner. Using  3 to 6 ounces per run with 5 to 10 minutes  cool down time in between.

For ABC, AAC ,ABL, ABC-R and ABN motors, start out in a very fast four-cycle and about every 45 seconds; pinch the fuel tube to kick the motor into a momentary two-cycle. These  types of engines  normally  take  more  break-in time than do their iron lapped piston cousins . If you can run the motor in a fast four-cycle and without touching the needle, pinch the tubing to lean the motor into a two-cycle for 20 seconds or so, then it should go right back to a four.  After breaking  in  the engine with a few  tanks of fuel , you can start using the needle  to cycle back and forth from 2 to 4 cycle. When it is broke in you should be able  to hold a 2 cycle for 30 seconds or  so,  and come back to a  4 quickly by turning the needle richer . If not, it probably needs more running time.

Thanks, Randy.  I was most curious when noting in the manual mentions a break in.  So whether it takes six tanks or two hours, I guess I will find out! LOL!!

Bill

True chrome fitted  tighter takes longer break in, and their chrome  is no different, now sputtered nickle take a very short breaking because it is loose fitted and cannot be fitted as tight as a chrome one.

But to get right down to it, it will depend on the individual engine and how it is fitted

Randy

Just FWIW: The manuals are available on-line at the Horizon Hobby site. I checked and there is little mention of break-in, just prop and RPM recommendations. I also remember the run right out of the box claim. I had 20 minutes or so break in on mine and went flying, no issues at all. With all that finning, they tend to run cool anyway.

I gave mine six laps of breakin time before pulling up into a reverse wingover.

Hello Randy,
Was your comment about sputtered nickel a slip of the tongue? I cannot see why a costly sputtering process would be used, when a very cheap electroless nickel plating, or even an electrolytic nickel plating system would deliver the goods, at much less cost.

Regards,

Andrew.

Bill, FWIW, we now have almost 50 runs on our Evo 60. Steadily improved during first 10 runs or so, now is very stable and repeatable.
Did about 20 minutes on the test stand, everything else in the air. Have used regular Powermaster(not GMA) throughout. Still very impressed
with the run quality! 

These days all manuals say no break in required.  This is for guys with throttles.  You decide.  I've had the 36's and and they required various amounts of break in.  I would pull the back plate and plug and flush it out.  The gaskets are cheap.  Two of mine were relatively clean but a big chip floated out of another.   

Hi Joseph

No that is not correct, many manuals do not say that, they say just the opposite.  many engines will have to be ran in, either in the air or on the ground..plane or bench. This is all dependent on type material and fit.

Regards
Randy