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Author Topic: Evapo-rust  (Read 2142 times)

Offline Brett Buck

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Evapo-rust
« on: September 14, 2019, 06:23:42 PM »
This is peripherally on-topic, I figure. I inherited some tooling from my Dad (taps, dies, etc), and they had been sitting for years/decades in his unheated garage in Arkansas. Mostly good quality stuff, too, which he was funny about - he would wear the same thrift-store shirt until it fell apart, but stuff like this, he never scrimped.

   Of course, it had a lot of surface and flash rust. Following the lead of my favorite Youtube machinist ( Adam Booth, AKA "Abom", https://www.youtube.com/user/Abom79 ) I got some evapo-rust rust dissolver and tried it. It works *great*, the rust dissolves into solution and comes out completely rust-free, and at least moderately resistant to flash rusting. If you have tools, tooling, etc, that has rust, this is definitely the first thing to try. It's water-soluble, you put the tools in a plastic tub, pour in enough Evapo-Rust to cover them, cover it, and walk away. It works slowly but you will see flash rust gone in a few hours, and the clear liquid gets progressively browner and smells like rust. Heavy rust might take a few with occasional agitation, but it seems to work just dandy, much better than Naval Jelly (phosphoric acid), etc and no wire brushes, sandpaper, Scotch-brite, etc. needed.

  Here's an "after" picture - I didn't think to take a "before" picture, but it was pretty dull an had a pretty even coat of vaguely orange surface rust. Obviously, it was not pitted too much, but this was a pretty good result.



  What is won't do is fix rusty engine bearings - once they are rusted, Evapo-rust will certainly remove the rust, but it does nothing about the pitting, it can't put metal back on and polish it. Any more than the most superficial rust on bearings ruins them.

    It is also chemically benign enough to not harm anything I have tried putting in it, like plastic, aluminum, brass, or copper. I have taken an old steel radio chassis that had been corroded in the past with rat pee, removed the RF and IF coils, and just dropped it in the tub and left it for a few days. All the capacitors, resistors, wiring, and tube sockets were completely unharmed, I washed it clean with running water, soap, and a fingernail brush in the bathtub, and then masked/painted it. It dried out, and then refurbished it normally (replaced wax-dip capacitors, left the sockets, wiring, and most of the resistors, all of which seemed unharmed by the experience).

    The liquid turns brown to varying degrees, opaque when there is a lot of rust. But you can keep using it over and over, until it stops working. About $25 for a gallon, so cheap, and a very superior solution to any other I have tried.

    Brett

Offline Manuel Cortes

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2019, 12:09:03 AM »
Very interesting, Thanks for sharing Brett.

Manuel.

Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2019, 08:18:30 AM »
   I heard of Evapo- Rust through the vintage dirt bike forums. Guys would buy it off eBay in 5 gallon buckets and use it to clean the inside of steel gas tanks. It doesn't harm paint at all, and in fact, I haven't found anything that it does attack, the biggest problem being the price! Some auto parts stores sell it in quart cans and that is what I have done my early experiments with. After a while, I started to use white vinegar for the same purposes. It's about 3 bucks a gallon and is used in exactly the same manor. It can be used over and over again also. I have posted the use of Evapo-Rust and white vinegar many times for flushing out metal fuel tanks. For a steel gas tank on a dirt bike, I would fill the tank and add a hand full of aquarium gravel, largely because I had some of that on hand, and every now and then will just shake and roll the tank around and let the gravel scrub the inside of the tank. The ideal way of doing this is to bolt the tank to a 2X4 and attach it to a BBQ rotisserie and let it tumble for a few days. Then I would drain the tank, flush with water and baking soda, then flush again with some scrap alcohol to absorb any left over water, then put some premix fuel in and slosh around to coat everything. I have never had a tank flash over with rust after this. That's more than you needed to know but demonstrates that white vinegar works, and I think works as well as Evapo-Rust. Sometimes I think that's all Evapo-Rust is, white vinegar that has a chemical added to it top remove the smell.
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Offline Joe Hunt

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2019, 03:26:41 PM »
1 gallon farm grade black strap molasses mixed with 5 gallons water works really well. cheap too. we get it from southern states, a local farm supply bidness. I think it is like $18 for 5 gal. stinky stuff.    joe hunt

Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2019, 03:42:02 PM »
1 gallon farm grade black strap molasses mixed with 5 gallons water works really well. cheap too. we get it from southern states, a local farm supply bidness. I think it is like $18 for 5 gal. stinky stuff.    joe hunt

    That mix was brought up on the vintage dirt bike forums also. It would work best if you mixed it a bit thick and brushed it on a surface you needed to let soak. But pretty difficult to get completely cleaned out of a motorcycle tank. I had read of guys using V-* juice and tomato juice also. my old boss at the hobby shop I worked part time at introduced me to the white vinegar trick. He used it to clean off civil war relics that he had dug up. He also used some sort of electrical process using a battery charger  and a bucket of water based on the anode and cathode deal, but that doesn't really fit our needs. White vinegar has always worked well for me.
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Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2019, 03:43:17 PM »
Dan, will white vinegar keep rats out of your radio?



Motorman 8)

    Sure, and it's also a pretty good bullsh*t repellent also n1 n1

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Offline Brett Buck

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2019, 05:42:19 PM »
. That's more than you needed to know but demonstrates that white vinegar works, and I think works as well as Evapo-Rust. Sometimes I think that's all Evapo-Rust is, white vinegar that has a chemical added to it top remove the smell.

   Not a chance, definitely not the same - if nothing else, Evapo-rust is slightly alkaline where as vinegar is acidic (acetic acid). Its method of action is chelation, no oxidation.

    I have tried vinegar, vinegar and salt (which works good for copper cooking pans...), and every erzatz rust-removing conconction, and tested vinegar and Evapo-Rust side-by-side, and Evapo-rust seems to remove rust much more completely and with fewer side effects than any acid-based system. Naval Jelly (phosphoric acid) works better than vinegar.

    BTW

Online 944_Jim

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2019, 06:27:15 PM »
Granted, I'm coming from bigger de-rusting projects (motorcycle, lawn mower, antique car tanks). I will try this Evapo-rust as a more conservative de-ruster.

Until recently, my typical de-rust was muriatic acid (followed by freshwater rinse, and tank sealing). Tanks cleaned this way tend to flash-rust in a blink. Pinhole leaks spring up in a blink. This method really needs a tank coating afterwards.

My last tank was de-rusted using phosphoric acid from Tractor Supply. This appears to be a milder process, and  the remaining "coating" is supposed to be more rust resistant. I will be watching this tank closely over the next few months.

White vinegar may be too slow a process for the heavy de-rusting jobs I tend to do. Y'all are making me want to try Evapo-rust in hopes that it can be used between white vinegar and phosphoric acid. Hopefully neutralizing it it is easier than either of the acids!

Thanks for your hints and knowledge!

Offline Brett Buck

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #8 on: September 15, 2019, 06:30:20 PM »

White vinegar may be too slow a process for the heavy de-rusting jobs I tend to do. Y'all are making me want to try Evapo-rust in hopes that it can be used between white vinegar and phosphoric acid. Hopefully neutralizing it it is easier than either of the acids!

   There is no "neutralizing" required, it's not an acid of any type. Just wash it off with water.

    Brett

Offline Robert Whitley

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2019, 11:36:23 PM »
Try the Evapo-Rust. Youíll love it.
Iíve been using it for years and have always been very happy with the results.
If available in your area buy it in the pail as it has a dipping basket built in and the lid seals it while your parts are soaking. Also it is a much better dollar value compared to the smaller bottles commonly sold.

Online 944_Jim

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #10 on: September 16, 2019, 07:39:20 AM »
Can it be used for cleaning out model airplane engines and motorcycle carbs?
I know this drifting from using it on steel...

Offline Brett Buck

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #11 on: September 16, 2019, 08:50:41 AM »
Can it be used for cleaning out model airplane engines and motorcycle carbs?
I know this drifting from using it on steel...

   It work only for iron oxide found on iron and steel, it doesn't do anything (good or bad) to anything else. It has a very mild detergent in it, but Tide laundry detergent and water has that, too.

   As noted, if the bearings are rusted, it will de-rust them but they are still damaged and must be replaced. It de-rusts screws and bolts very nicely.

    Brett

Offline Joe Ed Pederson

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #12 on: September 11, 2021, 01:08:58 PM »
It's a good thing I checked for rust in the fuel tank. 

No telling how old the tank is since I didn't build the plane (I bought the model.)  And since I hadn't flown the plane (Jamieson Special) in a couple of years, I put some fuel in it at home and sloshed it around and emptied it.  Good thing I did.  The fuel I used was the light yellow Sig 25% all castor.  It came out almost red.  Tried flushing a second time and began to see particles of rust.  So, I gave up on just flushing the tank with fuel.

I had copied and pasted this thread and had bought a quart of Evapo-rust a long time ago.  I filled the tank with Evapo-rust and the container says wait for 2 - 4 hours.  I'm sure the LA .40 in the model will appreciate a clean fuel tank and clean fuel.

I'm strange.  Sometimes I'll go for the least expensive (eg. white vinegar), and sometimes I don't care what it costs (to a point).  I can't remember what the Evapo-rust cost, but obviously it wasn't more than I could tolerate.

Thanks to Sparky for Stunthanger and thanks to everyone who is so helpful,
Joe Ed Pederson

Offline Brett Buck

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #13 on: September 11, 2021, 01:48:16 PM »
It's a good thing I checked for rust in the fuel tank. 

No telling how old the tank is since I didn't build the plane (I bought the model.)  And since I hadn't flown the plane (Jamieson Special) in a couple of years, I put some fuel in it at home and sloshed it around and emptied it.  Good thing I did.  The fuel I used was the light yellow Sig 25% all castor.  It came out almost red.  Tried flushing a second time and began to see particles of rust.  So, I gave up on just flushing the tank with fuel.

I had copied and pasted this thread and had bought a quart of Evapo-rust a long time ago.  I filled the tank with Evapo-rust and the container says wait for 2 - 4 hours.  I'm sure the LA .40 in the model will appreciate a clean fuel tank and clean fuel.

      The beauty of Evapo-Rust is that you can leave it indefinitely with no harm done. Also, you can re-use it, I have seen people with big tanks of it that are absolutely black, still works the same. Eventually it has done all the chelating it can, and it stops working but most people will give up on it long before that point. Just filter out the chunks and pour it back in the jug.

     Brett

Offline Joe Ed Pederson

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #14 on: September 11, 2021, 02:10:13 PM »
      The beauty of Evapo-Rust is that you can leave it indefinitely with no harm done.

     Brett

Thanks for the additional information.   In that case I think I'll leave it in the tank until tomorrow.

Joe Ed

Offline Brett Buck

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #15 on: September 11, 2021, 02:34:10 PM »
Thanks for the additional information.   In that case I think I'll leave it in the tank until tomorrow.

   If these are the Veco tanks supplied by "a major manufacturer", I would definitely leave it in there at least a day or more and shake it up a few times. And definitely put it "nose down" for 10-12 hours, then "nose up" for 10-12 hours.

     I haven't taken a lot of these apart, but when I did, there were very large rust chunks all around either end cap on the inside, and on one of them, you could just shake the tank and hear stuff scraping around in there.

       Brett

Offline Robert Whitley

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #16 on: September 11, 2021, 03:27:54 PM »
It works really well if you use it in a heated ultrasonic cleaner.
Iím doing a bunch of grungy engines today before I put them into storage.
The engines look like new.
Iím treating the internals with ATF and then sealing them in plastic wrap.

Offline BillLee

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #17 on: September 11, 2021, 08:49:36 PM »
A cheaper alternative: Google "rust911".

Evaporust and equivalent is used all the time in my other hobby, a 1929 Ford Model A.

The mentioned use of molasses also works although is a lot slower. See http://cedarcreekas.org/TechTopics/MolassesDerusting.pdf

Regards,

Bill
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Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #18 on: September 12, 2021, 07:05:54 AM »
Just Googled Evapo-Rust remover and found that Advanced Auto has a smaller 32oz. size available for $9.99 in store. They also have the 1 gallon size for $26.99. I have a bit of rust on the bottom of a steel door that needs cleaning then JB Weld to fill. This sounds like a good way to get it started.

Best,    DennisT

Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #19 on: September 12, 2021, 07:24:34 AM »
A cheaper alternative: Google "rust911".

Evaporust and equivalent is used all the time in my other hobby, a 1929 Ford Model A.

The mentioned use of molasses also works although is a lot slower. See http://cedarcreekas.org/TechTopics/MolassesDerusting.pdf

Regards,

Bill

        I used to be a member of several different Yahoo Groups for vintage off road motorcycles and the discussion of rusty tanks came up early on. Some one mentioned the use of molasses , and even V-8 juice to clean fuel tanks and that got me to looking into ingredients of both and came up with white vinegar. About the same time a discussion with my boss at the hobby shop I worked part time at brought out that he used white vinegar to clean up rusty civil war relics that he would dig up while metal detecting on old camp sites and battle grounds. That eliminates the cost of buying a food product to do the same job! The use of an ultrasonic cleaner helps speed things up with whatever you use. Engine vibration is what breaks a lot of rust flakes loose and the ultrasonic cleaner mimics that. I have a Fierce Arrow that was built by Mike Gretz that has the fuel tank built into the model and can't be removed. When I tried flying it for the first time it went about 3 flights before the fuel filter would completely clog with rust. I would fill the tank with white vinegar and let it sit for a day or two and then flush it out , and then put a ground run on the engine for a tank of fuel. The filter would get full again on one run so I repeated the process about five or six times until the filter stayed clean for three straight tank full runs, then I was able to fly the model normally.  If you can get a tank out it's quicker just to pop the end of the tank off and you can use scotch brites or even rags to wipe out the insides, but if the tank is built in, it takes some other measures.
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Offline Brett Buck

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Re: Evapo-rust
« Reply #20 on: September 12, 2021, 02:12:39 PM »
I have a bit of rust on the bottom of a steel door that needs cleaning then JB Weld to fill. This sounds like a good way to get it started.

  For something like that, I would just use Naval Jelly, it's a lot faster and you don't have to remove the door and set up a tank. Naval jelly, wire brush, filler (bondo or JB-Weld if any strength is required), sand, paint.

       Brett


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