Hi,

I was wondering wether anyone having used the ENYA 61 CSX in both versions, the new version with a ring and the old ABN version without, can explain why the ringed version seems to have less power while producing more heat and what to do to make it run like the ABN-version which unfortunately doesn't seem to be produced anymore but has better running characteristics (I am using muffler, no pipe).

I have tested both versions, both also with low and high compression head. In order to get a decent run out of the ringed version  I needed the high compression insert plus a 8mm venturi while the ABN version was happy with 7.5 mm venturi and the normal, low compression head. I have however never tested different plugs and stayed always with the Enya No 3 although Enya recommends the No4 plug.

Any comments or ideas are appreciated.

Thanks

Christoph Holtermann, Germany

Hi Christoph

How have you been! I had hope to meet with you at the last W.C., to bad you guys did not make it. Hope all is well the family!

Well I can tell you about my experience: I have several Enya engines  Iron, ABN, AAC and Ring. And I use different fuel mix for each type of engine.

For the ABN 61CX I noticed it liked Castor and end up using 10% Nitro, 10% Synthetic and 14% Castor.

Now I am using the Enya 61CXRL Ring with Pipe and it seems not to like Castor. It runs cooler with Byron Traditional 10/20 straight, which is 80% synthetic and 20% Castor. I want to try all synthetic fuel.

I have not  measured the temperature, but I did not noticed any temperature differences between the ABN and the RING one. But I had this experience: Initially I put the the Enya 61CXRL with pipe in a SV-11, it worked great with the Pipe at 19.25" no signs whatsover of overheating. But when I transfer the engine to my Thundergazer it started  to run much hotter and end up burning the tip of the pipe. The Thundergazer was much heavier. I spoke with Randy and he suggest to set the pipe at 20" and the overheating problem was solved. Because of economic reasons I chose to dial in 2-2-2. But the engine runs mighty well in 4-2-4 or 4-4-4.  In 2-2-2 seems to keep the speed better. The first day at the W.C. the wind was crazy, the worse in W.C history I was told! Scared as I was, I removed the air filter and launch at 11000 rpms and prayed not to burn my pipe, thanks God no overheating and the engine made the 1970g Thundergazer fly like it wasn't so bad.

Some of my friends are using the Enya 61CXR with no pipe and seems as strong as the ABN.

As matter of fact I had 2 ABN 61CX and one was quite stronger then the other.

So my suggestion is to check the ring gap and/or try fuel with more synthetic oil.

I have already sent the Enya 61CXR piston and liner to Frank, so he already knows how to make them. I am still using the stock ring as the compression is a good or better then my ABN ones.

Take care,

Martin

The CXLRS (CL) version comes with a low compression head button, presumably indicated by the dimple located close to the plug (on mine at least). The photo shows the original head button on the right compared to the high compression button (12.4:1) I made for my engine.

Christoph, the main reason why so many are afraid of castor in ringed engines is the risk of ring getting stuck in ring groove because of burn residue. To use castor in order to carry out heat us mostly crap. Glow fuel is better for that. Of course, in many cases castor oil still keeps lubricating when many synthetics give up and this of course keeps the engine cooler.
Also, castor oil allows you to use higher compression, which may mean more power and stability.
There is also quite big differences in how differend synthetic oils behave. For example, I know that many, including Richie, has had great success with Aerosave oil, an oil that doesn't work at all with DR engines.
One good and easily available oil that behaves like castor is Motul Micro. L