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Engine basics => Engine set up tips => Topic started by: Peter Grabenstein on August 22, 2015, 06:22:15 AM
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Hi all
I did try search func. first but can not find any Enya 30SS Engine set up tips ?, (only 2 Posts) ???.
Doing some wrong LL~??.
Thanks for help #^!.
Peter H^^
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Hi, Peter.
This is a common issue with the search function. Try Enya 30 and see what you get. I counted at least 6 or 7 posts about set-ups on the first couple pages of results.
Please don't take this for one of those "Just use the search" answers. If you still can't find some more, I'd be happy to corral some and post the links. H^^
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I run mine like this:
Enya 3 plug
10X5 APC prop
10/23 fuel 50/50 oil blend
2-2-2 run...
One flip start Always... Great little engine...
Marcus
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Enya #3 plug
APC 10.5x4.5
5% nitro, 11% castor, 11% synth
Stock muffler & venturi
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Hi all
I did try search func. first but can not find any Enya 30SS Engine set up tips ?, (only 2 Posts) ???.
Doing some wrong LL~??.
Thanks for help #^!.
Peter H^^
What size model are you planing to fly with this engine?
The engine works with any 9, 10 or 10.5 prop with 4" to 6" pitch
The ultimate performance you will get with an APC 10.5x4.5, optional 7.0mm venturi, 10/25 fuel in 2-2-2
In a Profile model you may suffer from fuel foaming in high rpm settings.
A friend of mine got his running with a 10x6 prop in a descent 4-2-4 with 0 Nitro 25% Oil
Martin
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What size model are you planing to fly with this engine?
The engine works with any 9, 10 or 10.5 prop with 4" to 6" pitch
The ultimate performance you will get with an APC 10.5x4.5, optional 7.0mm venturi, 10/25 fuel in 2-2-2
In a Profile model you may suffer from fuel foaming in high rpm settings.
A friend of mine got his running with a 10x6 prop in a descent 4-2-4 with 0 Nitro 25% Oil
Martin
MANY THANKS Kameraden , comrades, for all your Input ;D.
This Enya (allmost new 45 Min's.) will jump into my SIG ARF Primary Force, my new building project y1.
To prevent fuel foaming my
(adjustable. 4oz uniflow front feed)
metal tank has a thin (4mm) layer self adhesive black foam rubber at the side wall to face the fuse.
For "easy changing" engine #^ I will dadopt from my ex >:( Brodak Cardinal the engine mounting System (clamps) ::).
My engine choice <= ,OS FP 25 NIB, Brodak .40 (45 Min's.), Tom Dixon OS LA 40 (30 Min's.)
All the best
Peter H^^
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Peter, I think the Prinary Force + SS30 would be a great combination. Please let us know how it goes.
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MANY THANKS Kameraden , comrades, for all your Input ;D.
This Enya (allmost new 45 Min's.) will jump into my SIG ARF Primary Force y1.
To prevent fuel foaming my
(adjustable. 4oz uniflow front feed)
metal tank has a thin (4mm) self adhesive black foam rubber at the side wall to the fuse.
For easy engine changes #^ I will dadopt from my ex >:( Brodak Cardinal the engine mounting System (clamps) ::).
My engine choice <= ,OS FP 25 NIB, Brodak .40 (45 Min's.), Tom Dixon OS LA 40 (30 Mins.)
All the best
Peter H^^
Peter,
I suggest you get the optional 7.0mm venturi APC 10.5x4.5, 18~18.5m lines, 10% nitro with 25% oil half half sint/castor or 80% castor and 20% synt which in my opinion would be better.
In a profile model I like much better the fuel tank mounted on the inside and I use the Sullivan RST 4.0Oz
By the way, this setup will burn around 3.5oz of fuel so you better get a 4.0oz fuel tank.
Good luck!
Martin
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Peter, I think the Prinary Force + SS30 would be a great combination. Please let us know how it goes.
Yees I will,......but........... I am a sloooow builder.
Peter H^^
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Hi Martin
I am "old School", donīt like Plastic Tanks !, donīt know why ? ? .
That's why I use this uniflow 4oz metal tank.
https://www.rsmdistribution.com/index-2.htm
My tank is fully adjustable up to 6mm above engine centerline, which I really don't need n1.
Here are the part's I use for the Tank,
http://brodak.com/adjustable-tank-brackets-side.html
http://brodak.com/adjustable-tank-brackets-side.html
Peter H^^
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Hi Martin
I am "old School", donīt like Plastic Tanks !, donīt know why ? ? .
That's why I use this uniflow 4oz metal tank.
https://www.rsmdistribution.com/index-2.htm
My tank is fully adjustable up to 6mm above engine centerline, which I really don't need n1.
Here are the part's I use for the Tank,
http://brodak.com/adjustable-tank-brackets-side.html
http://brodak.com/adjustable-tank-brackets-side.html
Peter H^^
Well I was no so lucky using this method in my profiles when using an engine in high rpm with a low pitch prop. It caused severe fuel foaming, even using a rubber foam on the back of the tank. Perhaps the foam rubber I use was not the right.
Any way built the nose tough!
Martin
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Well I was no so lucky using this method in my profiles when using an engine in high rpm with a low pitch prop. It caused severe fuel foaming, even using a rubber foam on the back of the tank. Perhaps the foam rubber I use was not the right.
Any way built the nose tough!
Martin
Well,
if the metal tank/rubber foam Combo doesn't work ,
I will switch to 4oz Kavan uniflow clunk tank from the kit.
Right now I am fighting with P.F. inside circle bowed fuse ???.
The bicycle spoke pushrod is a bad joke.
I am going for Carbon tube pr.
To stiffen the nose section, thinking about a built up "Cheek Cowl" like C.G. Shoestring.
Its running "off Topic". I will post my P.F. questions at ARFīS.
MANY THANKS TO ALL ANYWAYS !!!
Peter H^^