I'm having a problem getting an Enya 19 IV to run.  It runs fine with the battery attached to the glow plug, but when the battery is removed, the run gets erratic and it stops.  I've switched out 5 glow plugs (all of different brands) and the same thing happens:  With a brand new plug it runs fine for about 30 sec after removing the battery lead, but then gets erratic and stops.  Re-start the engine with the same plug and remove the battery lead and it goes erratic and stops right away.  I've waited for the engine to completely cool and tried it again and it goes erratic right away after removing the battery lead.  I've taken the plugs that I removed from the Enya and installed them in another engine (a Dooling 29 that is also bench mounted at the moment) and it runs just fine.  Perhaps pertinent is that the compression in the Enya is only so-so.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks,
Rick

Steve is right, try a hot plug.

If this engine is new and has very tight P/L fit, that could happen even with a hot plug. Just keep on with the break in, it will improve as you run in the engine.

Martin

I have one that I broke in in a Flying Fool years ago. I run it with a Fox long idle bar plug and it runs great. I had to fly it in a 4 stroke when I first started flying it as once I leaned it out it would just quit. The shaft bearing took forever to free up. They are a very nice running engine after breakin. I still have mine in the early version of the Tom Tom set up with three lines and a throttle. It has many hours of flying on it and still runs well. It has been in three contol line planes and three R/C planes.

Now and then I see people saying it takes for ever to break in an Enya engine. However, I normally break in my Enya engines with *iron piston* within 1 to 1.5 hours running on the bench and it will be ready for flying.

This is what I have been doing:

Initially I do 10 short runs of 1min with the needle set so the engine is almost trying to break into 2, and letting the engine totally cool between runs.  Then 8 short runs of 2 min and 6 of 3min. Then I do 5 to 8 runs, depending how tight the engine is, of  6 minutes. In this set I pinch the fuel line with care to make the engine run very close to the peak rpm just one hair rich for 8s,  not letting the engine seize or sag, but to hold the maximum rpm it can sustain,  then I release the fuel line, wait about 20 or 30s and repeat the process till the end of 6min. The top rpm improves significantly in this stage. I call the engine ready to fly when I see that there is not more gain in the peak of rpm and as soon as I release the fuel line the rpm returns back immediately to the rpm as  it was before. At this point the engine will be flyable but it will still keep improving flight after flight for the first 20 or 30 flights.

If the break in is done letting the engine run only rich and 4 stroking all the time,  even after several hours on the bench it will probably sag or even seize during the first flights.

Martin

One of the nicest running Enya 35 5224 engines I have was one that went straight into an asphalt circle fro directly overhead. Bent the crank. Straightened it the same way you did and it is still running strong and smooth. Martin's break in procedures have worked well for me too. Good info. 

Now I just need a plane to mount it on.  In the old days, it was a ringmaster jr.  Any suggestions for a (better) plane?
Thanks for all of your help,
Rick

How about an OldTime, 64 years old model for the 50 years old engine? Ringmaster S-1.
I do know that 19-IV has less power than 19-V, but I think it will be able to pull S-1 with a little short lines, 52ft or so. If the model is light, it will be able to do full pattern.

Aki

I don't have time to spend forever running in an engine. What has worked for me is to take an 10/ 4 prop cut it down to an 8 in prop and then start it up in a fast 4 cycle just under breaking into a 2 cycle let run for about 2 min and shut down and cool repeat about 2 more times. Then start it and start pinching the lines when running to force it into 2 cycle and then let it go back to 4. as soon as it will respond to pinching instantly put a standard 8/5 on it and run it in a wet 2. Pinch the line periodically to lean it and let it return. keep increasing the length of time on the run. You will find that as soon as it will hold a setting in a wet breaking 2 it is time to put it on a plane and fly it in the rest of the way.
Make sure that the crank is free in the case as that was more of a problem then the P/L fit. synthetic/castor is the preferred fuel and I use 5/22 as higher nitro is really not needed.
The smaller prop lets the engine rev without load and overheating and you should get good results in a very short time. I fly a Flite streak occasionally with an Enya 19/4 on 57.5 X 015 lines with no complaints to it's flying ability. I broke the engine in probably 30 years ago using that method. It still has great compression and starts in 2/3 flips.

How about an OldTime, 64 years old model for the 50 years old engine? Ringmaster S-1.
I do know that 19-IV has less power than 19-V, but I think it will be able to pull S-1 with a little short lines, 52ft or so. If the model is light, it will be able to do full pattern.

The 19-IV is a bit of an unusual one, and quite different to the -V and -VI. A friend has one, and found it underwhelming with the sort of props you'd use on the later 19s. After a bit of messing round, though, he discovered that it really came to life on a Bolly 9.5x6, which is what we often use on PAW 19 diesels, and which would be way too much for a 19-V or -VI. The 19-IV has obviously got a very different torque curve, so don't be afraid to load it up a bit. I've got an unrun one, which I really must put to use some time.

Hi Martin,
I have a brand new Enya 5224 that must be 40 years old, I tried your break in method and I am afraid it didn't work on this engine, which is odd because the shaft / bearing clearance is fine ( I dismantled the engine before running (Just to clean out the old stiff oil. Once cleaned up, I could spin the shaft by hand and it took a couple of seconds to stop, Piston Cylinder was a little tight but nothing excessive. After running it in as you suggest, it still will not lean out without sagging. Very odd as everything appears to be OK and I would have said the engine was just about run in from the fits and feel. I am running an Enya No 3 plug and have swopped it for another  new Enya No 3 plug. I am running 25 % oil (50/50 % castor and synthetic the rest is methanol, no nitro.
I am sure your break in procedure works and this engine feels good to go, so is there anything else that could cause the problem described?

Regards,

Andrew.

Hi Andrew,

If it is still sagging then your engine is not broken in yet. You need to keep doing the 6min run pinching the fuel line to keep at peak rpm. Eventhough it feels nice and smooth when it is cold. Some engines comes with a tigher p/l fit and will take a few more runs.

What prop are you using?  25% total oil is also what use.


Martin

Hi Martin,
Will do as you suggest, I am using an 8x6 for running in, as I don't like loading the engine too much at this stage! No the liner isn't the wrong way around, I got caught with that one 40 years ago and I always take a "new to me" engine apart. Amazing what you find in some engines! No this engine is sagging because of overheating. The P/L clearance was a little tight as received, but nothing like most new Enyas (of the older sort)! It has a great bouncy feel at the moment, but I will try your extra six minute runs with pinching.

Thanks both,

Andrew.